New here S40T4 Questions

[Evolv]

Hi,

 

Im glad i stumbled across this site, scrolling through various other forums that lacked activity or knowledge.

 

Going back quite a few years now I had an 760 Turbo, then went onto a 440 GLT which was a rare beast and quite expensive to fix due to the non standard engine mounts and parts on it. Both blew up from dodgy mechanics who simply did not know volvos.

 

I am now back in a 2000 Volvo S40 T4 SE which has only done 113,000km''s (Australia)

 

I got it very cheap due to a tree branch falling on it and putting a few dents in the roof which i am planing to fix later on.

 

First thing i did was give it a oil flush, change filter, new oil, and new spark plugs. The oil that came out of it was quite black as if it hasn't been replaced in a while or cheap mineral oil used.

 

When replacing the spark plugs all looked good except for 1st Cyl Far right hand spark plug with coil. It was very wet with oil. That is my first question. What would cause it to be saturated in oil with these models apart from Piston rings worn, or valve seals? There is no fault codes showing apart from one Torque Limiter activated. Which i assume has to do with DSC.

 

I have put on New Nitto NT555s which has made a massive improvement.

 

Changed the rear lower and drivers engine mount (Upper Passenger) to reduce bad engine vibration which there still seems to be some at idle. I had others checked out and was told there ok. But the car gets pulled left to right while accelerating hard so it may be the bottom right hand engine mount as well.

 

Now i have ran some tests on the engine performance. Vacuum is good at around 14psi idle and 11-8psi while cruising. Now for boost i have had peaks of 21.7psi which i think is way to high for stock exhaust etc. I can hear the waste gate opening and closing. Power wise its estimated to be only producing around 141hp at around 500rpm and 280NM.

To me the engine is overboosting. I would of expected some kind of fault code but get nothing other than Engine Load Signal missing and Torque limiter applied, but this is on the DSC side.

 

Waterpump and timing belt kit all gen volvo has been installed.

 

I also had no Key Remote Fob. I read you have to take it to the dealer. Unfortunately where i live the dealer here from what i found likes to rip people off eg 450$ for the engine mount which i got for 81$

 

 

I can access the immobilizer and see how many keys are programmed but cant program keys or Remotes. The turn on to II and Turn off 5 times in 10seconds method does not work, it actually trips the immobilizer and the car wont start until i remove the key and reinsert.

 

I also have a PCV kit to put on, I cant actually see anything under the intake but it may be hiding directly under the throttle body?

 

There also appears to be two PCV Valves on two hoses going to the filter box with a T junction.

 

Fuel pump also is quite loud hear it humming even in the car.

 

Gears are hard to change at time so i gather the manual gear box oil needs to be changed.

 

Is there anything i should be looking at?

 

Bit if my background I am a DIY person with a Electronics and Computer Systems Engineering and Science background. Own a 4x4 as second car which is heavily modded and only seen a mechanic twice in its 15 years. This volvo will be the same if can find a Repair Manual and will be looking at freeing up some exhaust flow soon. And maybe a volvo dice to see if i can program the key fob.

 

[theForgottenone]

Changed the rear lower and drivers engine mount (Upper Passenger) to reduce bad engine vibration which there still seems to be some at idle. I had others checked out and was told there ok. But the car gets pulled left to right while accelerating hard so it may be the bottom right hand engine mount as well.

 

I think there is something else causing the pull. Out of alignment, wheel bearing

 

Now i have ran some tests on the engine performance. Vacuum is good at around 14psi idle and 11-8psi while cruising. Now for boost i have had peaks of 21.7psi which i think is way to high for stock exhaust etc. I can hear the waste gate opening and closing.

 

How are you getting this boost number? For a T4, normal should be somewhere near 14 psi.

[Evolv]

Thanks, The S40 has new tires, and wheel alignment. Wheel bearings may be bad but usually the place i get the tires from will tell me as have before because it errors on there wheel alignment machine. All bushes have been checked and are ok. Ill get the front wheels of the ground and check the bearings my self this weekend.

 

For boost i have a Digital Boost meter and also using a Scan tool, Both are around same values but the scan tool records the peak value.

 

I have a K&N Filter soon to arrive from K&N and will plumb a pipe from front to airbox. As the pipe going to the fender looks a little crushed and very restrictive.

[1clean00]

The overboost could be as simple as an overly tightened wastegate.  check the actuator arm on the turbo,  you'll have to remove the heat shield 3 bolts,  then with the lock nut loose on the wastegate (10mm),  turn the rod end loose a turn or two and watch the boost level in 3rd gear WOT.  Like Warren said,  stock boost level should be around 14.7psi.  

 

A healthy motor should see between 19-22 in/hg vac at warm idle.  If your vac is 14 at idle you have a vac leak somewhere or like you mentioned, piston ring wear.  

 

The pcv system definitely needs changing if the previous owner neglected the oil changes.  As the system clogs from oil sludge buildup you will get increased crankcase pressure that will hurt performance, economy,  and cause risk of blowing engine seals under boost.  

 

the pcv job is fiddly,  you must remove the intake manifold to change the lines and oil trap box,  as well as clean the block channels of any sludge and clean the ptc element at the turbo inlet hose.  

 

Looks like a clean car!  Welcome!

 

Adam

[Evolv]

Thanks Adam,

 

I will  be attempting the PCV this weekend. Im use to fiddly on the 4x4 which you have to take the entire top of the motor off to get the front off for access to the timing chains and water pump, so shouldn't be to bad.

 

I haven't had the dipstick pop out yet, but the performance is suffering from time to time so i am pretty sure its blocked somewhere.

 

The Vacuum is being displayed as PSI so would be around 26 in/hg.

 

I will also check the wastegate. is the exhaust 2.5" or 2.25" i read that a 2.5 inch pipe can slide over the original. I have a 2.25" magnaflow straight through which i thought of putting in place of the center muffler. 

 

The car is pretty clean, but the dents do spoil the overall look of the car. Hopefully will have that fixed soon.

[1clean00]

A roof rack or rail system could cover up some of the roof dents.  Plus add some function is you bike, ski, surf.  Or wanna move stuff you can't fit in the car.  

 

Lookup Thule or Yakima roof fairing, you'll see what i mean. 

 

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4854/1121/24633060051_large.jpg

 

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4854/1121/24633060050_large.jpg

 

Think that is Mike Naccarato's old ride.  Had a ball bearing turbo,  coilovers,  pretty sweet build.  

[Evolv]

Thanks,

 

I have a 4x4 with roof racks that does all the heavy work. I live in a very windy area, so will try and avoid the roof racks

 

It doesnt have coil overs and is in Australia, Pretty sure its still the stock volvo turbo. The strut brace is recent which i got for 130$ delivered

 

Coil overs will be a nice addition though the suspension is still quite good but being able to adjust them would be 

 

I have stainless steel / fiberglass body fillter i will fill the dents with. I can get a new bonnet for $118. Everything else about the car is spotless, not a sign of rust.

 

Im lucky i don't live to far away from some Volvo tuners such as VPtuning, BSRTurning etc that do IPD, TME etc Most parts i get though are from the States or UK either from RockAUTO or IPD etc. Ends up being cheaper with postage than i can get local.

 

I have a feeling the ecu has been flashed as where i got it and the previous owners are usually into that stuff. And its seen Autotech which if you look up on youtube VOLVO s40 Autotech you will see what i mean. The car comes with a disadvantage is i have no history what so ever with it, apart from its always used genuine volvo parts.

 

The stereo is new too, Eonon with Cadence speakers and a slimline sub under the passenger seat. I run both Torque Pro and Dash Command for performance figures and gauges and Launch Tech iDiag for onboard diagnostics and testing.

 

I read and know about the Dice but not sure how much more it can do compared to the Launch which can do pretty much everything except Imobiliser programming.

 

I also would like to take it to Bathurst and Philip island where these volvos where raced.

[theForgottenone]

Thanks Adam,

I will be attempting the PCV this weekend. Im use to fiddly on the 4x4 which you have to take the entire top of the motor off to get the front off for access to the timing chains and water pump, so shouldn't be to bad.

I haven't had the dipstick pop out yet, but the performance is suffering from time to time so i am pretty sure its blocked somewhere.

The Vacuum is being displayed as PSI so would be around 26 in/hg.

I will also check the wastegate. is the exhaust 2.5" or 2.25" i read that a 2.5 inch pipe can slide over the original. I have a 2.25" magnaflow straight through which i thought of putting in place of the center muffler.

The car is pretty clean, but the dents do spoil the overall look of the car. Hopefully will have that fixed soon.

I would just get rid of the 2nd cat and won't bother put a center muffler in there. Oem piping is kinda weird as it shrink down to like 2" at flex section and gradually increase to 2.5" by the rear seat.

[Evolv]

Thanks, I cant recall seeing a second cat.

 

Aus went by Euro emission standards which i dont think is as strict as USA standards.

 

Have one large cat then large muffler in center that goes to a 90 degree bend then to another small resonator then to rear muffler. The rear muffler looks reasonably new. but the other exhaust parts have volvo stamped on them.

 

I have a couple of 2.5" high flow cats i could see if one will fit. and then straight pipe after cat and maybe make it 2.5" all the way through. I just recently made a dual 2.5" system using Hooker mufflers so have quite a bit of pipe left, flex joints and clamps etc.

Hooker mufflers are good, pretty much same or higher flow as a straight through but a lot quieter.

[TEEKAY]

There's a decent store that we've mentioned on these boards in Australia , http://vptuning.com.au, I've emailed them a few times and so has Adam? Good folks and they had or used to have some nice go fast parts.

 

I've been plotting on keeping the oe cat/downpipe and setting up from the flexpipe back with the intention of having a proper 3" section made later. The only place I find selling the correct flanges for the OE cat though is this shop down by you coincidentally. (They've been bad about replying to my emails after I told them I only wanted one set, let me know if you want to help me acquire them I can pp you )

 

https://www.bestmufflers.com/bshop/product_info.php?cPath=323_786&products_id=4359&osCsid=b2c3410ce63603001833b2481ff2384d)

Bah still can't edit, link wasn't direct - https://www.bestmufflers.com/bshop/product_info.php?cPath=323_786&products_id=4359&osCsid=b2c3410ce63603001833b2481ff2384d

[Evolv]

Best Mufflers is pretty hard to get in contact with by email. There competitive but also expensive at the same time with some parts esp on delivery. But pretty much have everything in the way of exhaust parts.

Though's Flanges are usually always sold in pairs and sealed in a bag. Its hard to find someone who will separate them  

 

When i had the 440 GLT and getting a performance exhaust put on it 2.5" they said the flow of the volvo cats where hard to beat and not worth the money to go to a high flow cat which are usually quite cheap these days anyway. They also said it sound between a Porch 911 and Subaru WRX, nice sound but not to loud.

 

The cat on the s40 is huge almost two cats in the one which could possibly be the case just with a big heat shield around it.

 

I replaced the fuel filter on the weekend, Put in a K&N air filter and took out all the crap sound dampening foam and the front of the airbox with a rubber divider to shield the heat from the transmission etc getting into the box intake temp is around 27degrees which aint bad for a 26degree day.. I can here a slight woosh and bov noise at low rpms now but hardly noticeable when accelerating loud. Wish i new what another volvo s40 T4 sounded like. Mine does sound quite rough and loud, think the engine needs another full flush or intake clean.

 

I have checked the PCV system and it seems fine. took the tube of the top of the engine which looked very good for the age of the car so may of been replaced already? I blew into it and there was very little restriction and hot air came out of the oil filler so i assume its ok?

 

I monitored the turbo closely on the weekend too it peaks at around 16-17psi at around 5500rpm but its when i change gears it may hit 21psi for a split second.

 

 I have Liqui Molli fuel system detox and conditioner going though it to try and clean out all the crap esp in Cyl 1 as the car did blow a bit of smoke under boost when i first got it. It  doesn't blow smoke now and slowly getting better. Will do a Engine Detox again soon. I did look at the sea foam valve cleaning vid on youtube, I dont think my neighbors will be very happy with me if i smoke out the neighbor hood, they like having bbqs and door open on their balcony's

 

I did do this when worked on my upper suzuki engine,. new injectors, seals, waterpump. pipes, etc etc sprayed out the whole intake and throttle body. The amount of smoke it created was embarrassing. Like someone doing a burnout at a burnout comp. Had a pipe going from the tail pipe wrapped in a rag and in a bucket of water to try and reduce the smoke. but even still created a lot!

[Evolv]

Just an update on this,

Have replaced the PCV system about a month ago, didn't really make any difference, prob alot of work for nothing as the old separator wasn't blocked and hoses looked in very good condition, but i did bypass the coolant to the air intake which looks quite pointless, so now the intake is a lot easier to take off. Also replaced hoses around that area and gave everything a good clean, including idle valve

I have also replaced the spark plugs again, i didnt go volvo as they want a ridiculous 65 per plug here, can import them for that with shipping. Yet i have had good results with Pulstar plugs, ordered them adjusted gap to .027" and the Idle smoothed out just a tad but pretty good when warm. Main thing i noticed is i got another consistent 24NM torque and starts at a lower rpm too.

Last weekend i took a good look at the turbo, Replaced the CBV spring, noticed the vacuum hose under the valve was slipping off, cut the hose and put a new clamp on it. Also replaced the Actuator to a 11psi one, which i think has opened a few other problems now. 

I think on the T4 the actuator is normally 9psi but reading it should be 4? the spring and tension of the new and old actuator is around the same by feel. 

Now though i get a tad bit of lag until around 2000rpm and boost comes on strong and then cuts out, its overboosting to around 18.5psi in the high rpms so the engine cuts back  I think 18.5psi is the boost limit. WIth the new actuator i have no pretension. I will try putting the old one back but it kind of looks a bit deteriorated. Has anyone else tried a different actuator and with what results?

Power has gone down to 170hp at wheels but torque remains at 324NM but that comes on real strong at only 1/4 throttle which means i hit 60KMH really quickly!

Idle still isnt smooth when cold, so im not sure where else to look apart from O2 sensor as the MAF looks good and i gave it a clean.

What does the s40 idle at when cold? as it may be the idle control valve.

[Evolv]

[theForgottenone]

21 hours ago, Evolv said:

Just an update on this,

Have replaced the PCV system about a month ago, didn't really make any difference, prob alot of work for nothing as the old separator wasn't blocked and hoses looked in very good condition, but i did bypass the coolant to the air intake which looks quite pointless, so now the intake is a lot easier to take off. Also replaced hoses around that area and gave everything a good clean, including idle valve

I have also replaced the spark plugs again, i didnt go volvo as they want a ridiculous 65 per plug here, can import them for that with shipping. Yet i have had good results with Pulstar plugs, ordered them adjusted gap to .027" and the Idle smoothed out just a tad but pretty good when warm. Main thing i noticed is i got another consistent 24NM torque and starts at a lower rpm too.

Last weekend i took a good look at the turbo, Replaced the CBV spring, noticed the vacuum hose under the valve was slipping off, cut the hose and put a new clamp on it. Also replaced the Actuator to a 11psi one, which i think has opened a few other problems now. 

I think on the T4 the actuator is normally 9psi but reading it should be 4? the spring and tension of the new and old actuator is around the same by feel. 

Now though i get a tad bit of lag until around 2000rpm and boost comes on strong and then cuts out, its overboosting to around 18.5psi in the high rpms so the engine cuts back  I think 18.5psi is the boost limit. WIth the new actuator i have no pretension. I will try putting the old one back but it kind of looks a bit deteriorated. Has anyone else tried a different actuator and with what results?

Power has gone down to 170hp at wheels but torque remains at 324NM but that comes on real strong at only 1/4 throttle which means i hit 60KMH really quickly!

Idle still isnt smooth when cold, so im not sure where else to look apart from O2 sensor as the MAF looks good and i gave it a clean.

What does the s40 idle at when cold? as it may be the idle control valve.

 

I would use NGK plug if you are going non OEM route.

 

11psi spring is too strong for OEM setup.  

Idle when cold should be around 1100rpm in cold start setting  and then smooth down to 700-800rpm when warmed up. I would clean that idle control valve. In addition, give the throttle body a good clean also to help with the lag during WOT.

[Evolv]

Thanks Xcites40,

 

I had NGKS in it before gaped correctly, the engine would idle a lot rougher, the pulstars smoothed it out to a light vibration but still not what i would accept as it rattles the exhaust and its already wearing out the engine mounts that are almost new.

I cleaned the throttle body and idle valve when did the PCV, didn't make any difference.

Car idles at around 760rpm at first start every time, it vibrates quite bad until warm. 

I did notice today while started the car and standed outside of it it sounded like the exhaust was leaking somewhere around the turbo. I have checked if it was lose when i was back there and it seemed ok. Its possible there is a small leak that may cause it to idle rough? i have a big leak before the cat on my other car and just makes the exhaust louder, engine idles so smooth you dont even know its on apart from the noise

 

im going to put the old actuator back on this weekend. bit of a pain, the ecu has saught of got use to it and doesnt overboost anymore but its not a smooth acceleration it starts of stupidly quick then there is a split second hesitation then sits on 8psi to the redline.