New here S40T4 Questions

[theForgottenone]

Small Vaccum Leak can cause that condition where it build boost and then that surge.

[Tommy B.]

On 3/11/2015 at 6:31 PM, Evolv said:

This volvo will be the same if can find a Repair Manual

Hi,
here we go: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-q0D85ZS_VkS0xDNTdXWFNnTVU/edit

[catback]

ok. Long post to follow:

OK. Reading your posts, this is what I come up with:

Oil on spark plug #1 – has this been rectified? Did a compression test reveal anything out of line?

I wish to point out that OEM spark plugs cure a number of ills – but I’ll come back to this later….

 

You quote HP and Torque numbers. Have you put this car on a dyno?

You tell us that there was a tree that landed on the car and that you have some pulling to one side or another. Have you checked the frame for straightness? Additionally, this is a 16 year old vehicle. As a whole, suspension bushings dry out, ball joints, tie rod ends and strut mounts wear.

You have stated that the timing belt and water pump have been changed. By Whom and how many miles ago?

Regarding the engine vibration. Inspect all 4 engine mounts. If polyurethane mounts have not been installed and the rubber/hydraulic mounts are intact (bad hydraulic mounts would show a brown discoloration on the paint beneath the mount.) If these are all fine, then I would suggest (as Xcites has mentioned) checking all vacuum lines and also pulling the injectors and cleaning them. Sometimes simply using carburetor cleaner on the injectors will do it or soaking the injectors in sea foam. Worst case scenario – take the injectors to someone to properly clean them or replace them. When you did the PCV change, did you happen to clean the intake manifold? It is useful to clean the inside  bare intake  And coming back to OEM spark plugs, MY experience with aftermarket spark plugs has been less than stellar.

From the photos I see no oil leaks. I would like to know how the cam seals are.

I’m not sure if this engine has a VVT cam – Yes, no?

Under the covers over the spark plugs, is there oil there?

A plug for VIDA/DICE: it is quite useful to reset the engine adaptation after doing a PCV service, injector clean, a MAF/MAP replacement or turbo change.

Speaking of the turbo: Which turbo is installed? 12T, 14T, Other?

Inspection of the air intake side of the turbo (remove the snorkel hose) reveals what?

Over time the intercooler will accumulate oil, A good cleaning here is often useful.

Lastly, with high boost engines – of which yours is on the entry cusp of high boost – high octane fuel is a must.

[Evolv]

Hi Crusty,

THanks for your post.

No oil on number1 spark plug. The waterpump and timing belt was done when i got the car around 10,000k ago car only had done 113,000k due to the age i replaced it just because there is also an expiry date on belts and not just the number of ks they do.

PCV was done by me along with everything else including all 4 engine mounts these are standard rubber ones.

Engine was vibrating worse when it had the genuine volvo spark plugs in, but they where in bad shape.

I always run it on 98 octain.

I have fully cleaned the intake, valves etc etc these where actually in good condition no oil or soot.

This from what i know is a 15T Twin scroll.

I have checked turbo and apart from it looking old inside it looks good, wastegate etc moves freely.

HP results are from a ECU connected race computer with weight, and other specs entered, its very consistent yet i know it will not show true max HP and Torque as i would need to take it to the track to get these.

I have a pro diag tool not a Vida which im thinking of getting but the one i have does everything anyway, including all component tests. Resets the service light etc etc.

The only error i ever get is Torque limited, this is when DSA is turned on.

I have Nito NT555s which is classed as a Extreme performance tire, if you let it it willl brake traction in first second and third gear now, the car is producing a lot of torque!

Front upper engine mount is already looking worn, I am going to inspect it on the weekend, i read that if take the white plastic thing off engine vibrations disappear, i can see why as it apears the engine mount sits too close to the chasy even when it was new. The other side has a ruber thing that goes over it to isolate the mount from the chassy. I think the timing cover side one should have the same cover.

 

I have checked for vacume leaks i found one one the turbo under waste gate, fixed that but apart from the turbo now boosting higher and smoother it hasnt made much difference idle wise.

 

THe engine is not VCT its a 99 model.

 

THe engine has got use to the 11psi actuator now, there is still lag for a second or two but after that its smooth and very quick. it consistently gets to 100 in 6 seconds if DSA is turned off if its on you can feel the ecu cutting fuel its almost like the brakes are applied.

 

I am happy with how the car drives and performs its great for highway as i can get on it quick, i mainly only drive highway as in the country, turbo lag is not a issue as it makes it easier for me to take off, before the wheels would spin esp if the road was wet.

The wheel spinning issue i suspect has alot to do with worn front shocks. everything else eg boots, links, suspension components look in very good condition, almost new. But i notice if i do have to brake hard there is a slight knock, i thought it was the front lower engine mount, but after replacing that its still there so looking at coilovers for the front. The rear has coil overs but i think that was just stock for the car.

I did a shock test and it appears fine. I also tested the wheel bearings and these appear fine not movement in them at all or grinding.

 

Oh and body is straight, it was only a tree branch that fell on the roof.

Since new tyres it accelerates straight very controllable.

[1clean00]

The rough idle could be associated with other parts of the ignition system.  You mentioned replacing the plugs but did you inspect the coils and wires or replace them?  

[Evolv]

Ignition components are good, i have checked the leads and coils, gave them a clean, The contacts are in great condition. Look like new.

Only issue is the socket on No4 coil is starting to disintegrate, i have put black silicone to hold it in place and made sure the wires are secure on the coil. THe parts only cost 2$ each but 57$ to delivery, part of me avoids buying them as cant justify the shipping costs for something that at most should only cost $12..

I have a strong feeling its a failed upper engine mount as i notice the vibrations when accelerating is coming through the body also makes the engine resonate loudly through the chasy. on deceleration eg between gears vibrations go away as the engine tilts forward.

I had a thought that the rear lower engine mount should be stronger as this one will take alot of the torque on acceleration while the uper mounts have to take all the brunt of that and twist in a way they arnt really designed for. I thought of making the rear lower solid rubber which should tilt the engine more forward and higher so the upper right engine mount wont sit so close to the classy.

Would be interesting to take it to the Dyno. Tried Dash Command yesterday with car weight etc etc etc I hit 100kmh in 5seconds flat thats with a bit of traction loss on first and second, getting on a busy highway.  CBV is sounding alot louder last two days. Turbo lag is almost gone. Ive been driving around with DSA turned off for last week, the ecu is actually learning the 11psi actuator its boosting around 18.5psi for a brief second or two then settles to 14.4, at times though it settles on 8.

I do like how snappy it is, but traffic with a car this fast does get a bit frustrating, so will try putting back the Old actuator which ive tested and appears fine, but leave the stronger CBV spring in. Needs to be a bit more driver friendly, and not make everyones head hit the headrests every time i take off. *Funny to watch though :P*