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Anti-skid service required message


grntrdbx

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This is continuation of a past topic from last year. 

I had checked out the odometer button like the last member had suggested, and there was no flickering of the gauges. His thought was that the issue may be from a bad instrument cluster. 

What was done after the last post became a disappointing experience. The car has been for sale since last year, it runs great except for the anti-skid service fault (I don't think the rear diff is being engaged, so no all-wheel drive) so I have not been driving it.

What happened was this: I took it to a local shop (not a dealership) that was suggested to me by a relative. They said they would be able to work on it and they had worked on a lot of volvos. I asked them if they had the proper diagnosis equipment and software to work on it and they assured me that they did. This was the beginning of a 2 month and $1200 fiasco. The first thing they did was replace the throttle body because they said it was giving fault codes. As I had figured, replacing it didn't do a stinking thing bud drain my wallet. They then called me to say it was ready, they brought it around front for me to drive it home, I turned the ignition to restart it, and the anti-service message was still there. Not only that, it wouldn't start. While doing my best to keep my composure, I let them know that as I had told them, the throttle body was not going to fix the issue, and I was not picking it up until they fixed it. I purchased another cheap beater to drive to work while it was at the shop (a badly beaten '04' focus that I started repairing while I drove it) so my wife could drive my 2010 focus (the volvo was her daily). I didn't hear from them for about a month and a half, and I was ok with not dealing with the volvo for that time. I changed the insurance from full coverage to storage and happily drove the reliable beater focus for a fraction of the cost. I finally decided to call the shop and inquire to what the heck was going on with the volvo. They said I could pick it up but they couldn't exactly trace the original fault to it's source so they had just disconnected the differential module. They said they couldn't tell if the pump motor for the rear diff was faulty or if it was the rear diff module. They said I would be able to drive it but it wouldn't have any all-wheel drive. The price for the repair also went up $120 from the price they quoted me when I went to pick it up the first time. When I went to pick it up, the dope running the office couldn't find the keys. I paid the bill less the $120 the boss increased the bill by, and left. In all I had been fleeced of $1200 and change and the issue was not resolved. (But Hey, I had a new throttle body right? @#$^&^^%$#$$%^&!!! AHRRRRGHHHH!!!!). I brought it home, and with the storage insurance, I let it sit until spring. Once it started warming up, I found the battery wouldn't hold a charge so I installed a new one. That didn't resolve the issue (I hoped that a low voltage condition may be part of the issue). The steering u-joint was very stiff, so I cleaned it and lubed it and freed it up and found that it is going to need to be replaced in the near future. I removed the aftermarket alarm/remote start wiring in hopes that maybe a short somewhere may be leading to the issue, but no. I really don't want to take it to a dealership, but I may break down and do this. I have a gut feeling that as other owners with this issue, the dealership will charge me for a diagnosis and it will be incorrect. Bye Bye $$. The pisser is that aside from the issue I've been trying to get repaired, it runs really good, I am just done putting more money into it. Any last ditch suggestions??? I will still keep it for sale (Detroit craigslist) but it would be nice to have some closure on this issue. 

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  • 1 month later...

Ok Anti skid service can be related to many things. Usually, its the reluctor rings on the end of the drive shafts that rust, split and then send false signals to the relevant module. However as you appear to have been pointed in the direction of the Differential control module (DEM) that is what I'm going to detail.

The best thing to do is get the codes read with VIDA/DICE. This will give you fairly accurate guidance as to where the problem lies. I have a similar issue ( as yet unresolved but detailed on here ) but can offer what I have learned/discovered.

The on demand coupling (AOC) sits immediately infront of the rear diff, and is controlled by a control unit (silver plated cover panel marked "Haldex") (DEM) Remove the 2 @ 4mm Allen bolts will reveal two removable components - a pressure/temperature sensor, and a regulator/solenoid. Additional to these two items is a electric pump, which is used to prime the system. Failure in any of these components will cause failure of the AWD.  So, failure in the oil pump, pressure sensor,regulator, or DEM controller = lose of AWD.  There are other causes of lose of AWD, these are not 100% exhaustive -I have not found my reason, but from what I have read, cover 2/3 of instances where AWD has gone AWOL.

In the US I have seen a company called Exmodex advertise offering to check DEM and if faulty repair ( they suffer water ingress due to location) If that checks out ok next check the oil pump - 12vDC across the terminals and you should hear/feel it working. If bad they are 230 sterling in uk. Pump ok then check out a new pressure sensor @ about 120 sterling.

Both components can be cleaned by leaving to soak overnight in petrol.

Once you get the AWD working its adviseable to change the AOC filter, and remove the Oil pump to clean the intake strainer, which clogs and breaks the pump.

Volvo claim all these units are sealed for life... Audi change oil every 20000Km and filter every 40000Km (those mileages might be the wrong way around.) but you see my point.

I'm looking at the actual AOC unit as being my point of failure, but it does not warrent the cost of a new unit - so my car is currently only FWD.

 

Good luck on your issue.

 

Cheers

Bob

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  • 9 months later...

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