Welditup Posted May 27, 2016 Report Share Posted May 27, 2016 My car overheated ALOT and now my plans for this car maybe all gone and may step away from the volvo s40s. :(. The bottom end has no noise but I'm getting a very slight ticking noise in my valvetrain somewhere. Where do I start with fixing this or is it not worth fixing it at all at 150k miles? What happend was the t-fitting on top of the radiator cracked and leaked coolant without any obvious signs while driving on the highway. I pulled over right away and filled it with water and heard alot of boiling noises as i poured in the water so I waited till it cooled off to keep the block from cracking from a rapid cool down of the poland springs water. For now I'm going to do another oil change( only have 200miles on my recent oil change with castrol fully synthetic 10w-30). The high temps may may compromised the lubrication of the oil? What to do... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phixion Posted May 27, 2016 Report Share Posted May 27, 2016 Happen to mine when I had it, the entire plastic elbow of the upper hose snapped in half while on the freeway. I saw the cloud of coolant release in my mirrors as it happened (unknowing that's what happened) until moments later the smell of coolant was thick in the air from the ventilation and the temp needle climbed up to red and my ScanGauge II read 260F+ on it's digital read out. The car was "fine" once I got the hose replaced, and then the next weakness exposed itself which was the radiator springing a couple of ball point pen sized leaks in it due to pressure build up. With a new radiator installed, then the warped head exposed the blown headgasket that was festering itself and $2k later that was remedied and all was well... You're more than likely going to have to replace the headgasket and if it's gotten out of spec, possibly have to mill the head if it warped any or hunt down a good condition head if it's warped beyond machining out any areas that are out of spec. From there, make sure you compression test the motor to rule out any other happenings. Actually I'd have both a leak down test performed and then a compression test. Leak down will tell you the state of the head and gasket, compression will tell you anything deeper. Good luck and keep us posted! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Welditup Posted June 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2016 Sup everyone. My local mechanic is letting me use his leak down tester and compression tester so I'm going to check out how much wear and tear there is Saturday. How much PSI should I run on the leakdown test? Couple sources say to run 10-15psi on a leak down actuator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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