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Has Anyone Disconnected Their Egr Pipe?


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First off, don't give me any of the dribble that manufacturers and the govt say about EGR "cooling the intake" and crap. It's all BS. It's for emmissions, plain and simple. And frankly, I don't want crap exhaust gases contaminating my intake mixture. To prove this I have dynoed previous cars in the past where I take the exhaust gas that normally gets pumped out of the dyno facility, and instead pointed it to my intake so my intake is sucking up exhaust fumes in addition to fresh air. You can see power drop way off. The same thing when you are stuck in stop and go traffic sitting there sucking fumes from the car in front of you. That's basically what an EGR is. And how is that great for HP and "cooling the intake charge" haha?

Apparently Volvo agrees because in 96+ they got rid of it anyways. So IMO disconnecting it won't dispatch the environment any more than a 96+ that just has the same gas go right out the tailpipe.

Here's my idea. Just unbolt the EGR fitting pipe that threads into the intake manifold, and install a plug into the manifold to reseal the manifold. Then screw a female fitting to the EGR pipe and bend a little piece of tubing (think flared brake line) to either route it into the exhaust pipe, or just dump to atmosphere below the car. I will probably just dump it for now to test my theory.

Anyways, by doing it the above way the ECU should be fooled into thinking the EGR is still operational because there is EGR gas pumping through the pipe. It's just not going into the intake manifold anymore.

Does that make sense?

Anyone ever try it? Anyone know why it would or wouldn't work? Any codes?

People have been bypassing and disconnecting EGR systems on cars for years. So much so that car manufacturers don't even bother putting them on cars anymore for the most part. Modern engines run much cleaner anyways due to better detergents in gasoline, oils, and general tuning of EFI engines.

If I can get it to work I will be dyno testing the before and after on my car to see exactly what the effects are.

- Slater

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First off, don't give me any of the dribble that manufacturers and the govt say about EGR "cooling the intake" and crap. It's all BS. It's for emmissions, plain and simple. And frankly, I don't want crap exhaust gases contaminating my intake mixture. To prove this I have dynoed previous cars in the past where I take the exhaust gas that normally gets pumped out of the dyno facility, and instead pointed it to my intake so my intake is sucking up exhaust fumes in addition to fresh air. You can see power drop way off. The same thing when you are stuck in stop and go traffic sitting there sucking fumes from the car in front of you. That's basically what an EGR is. And how is that great for HP and "cooling the intake charge" haha?

Apparently Volvo agrees because in 96+ they got rid of it anyways. So IMO disconnecting it won't dispatch the environment any more than a 96+ that just has the same gas go right out the tailpipe.

Here's my idea. Just unbolt the EGR fitting pipe that threads into the intake manifold, and install a plug into the manifold to reseal the manifold. Then screw a female fitting to the EGR pipe and bend a little piece of tubing (think flared brake line) to either route it into the exhaust pipe, or just dump to atmosphere below the car. I will probably just dump it for now to test my theory.

Anyways, by doing it the above way the ECU should be fooled into thinking the EGR is still operational because there is EGR gas pumping through the pipe. It's just not going into the intake manifold anymore.

Does that make sense?

Anyone ever try it? Anyone know why it would or wouldn't work? Any codes?

People have been bypassing and disconnecting EGR systems on cars for years. So much so that car manufacturers don't even bother putting them on cars anymore for the most part. Modern engines run much cleaner anyways due to better detergents in gasoline, oils, and general tuning of EFI engines.

If I can get it to work I will be dyno testing the before and after on my car to see exactly what the effects are.

- Slater

If you just disconnect it, your gonna gain a good amount of crank case pressure. But as far as the computer knowing, it won't

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First off, don't give me any of the dribble that manufacturers and the govt say about EGR "cooling the intake" and crap. It's all BS. It's for emmissions, plain and simple. And frankly, I don't want crap exhaust gases contaminating my intake mixture. To prove this I have dynoed previous cars in the past where I take the exhaust gas that normally gets pumped out of the dyno facility, and instead pointed it to my intake so my intake is sucking up exhaust fumes in addition to fresh air. You can see power drop way off. The same thing when you are stuck in stop and go traffic sitting there sucking fumes from the car in front of you. That's basically what an EGR is. And how is that great for HP and "cooling the intake charge" haha?

Apparently Volvo agrees because in 96+ they got rid of it anyways. So IMO disconnecting it won't dispatch the environment any more than a 96+ that just has the same gas go right out the tailpipe.

Here's my idea. Just unbolt the EGR fitting pipe that threads into the intake manifold, and install a plug into the manifold to reseal the manifold. Then screw a female fitting to the EGR pipe and bend a little piece of tubing (think flared brake line) to either route it into the exhaust pipe, or just dump to atmosphere below the car. I will probably just dump it for now to test my theory.

Anyways, by doing it the above way the ECU should be fooled into thinking the EGR is still operational because there is EGR gas pumping through the pipe. It's just not going into the intake manifold anymore.

Does that make sense?

Anyone ever try it? Anyone know why it would or wouldn't work? Any codes?

People have been bypassing and disconnecting EGR systems on cars for years. So much so that car manufacturers don't even bother putting them on cars anymore for the most part. Modern engines run much cleaner anyways due to better detergents in gasoline, oils, and general tuning of EFI engines.

If I can get it to work I will be dyno testing the before and after on my car to see exactly what the effects are.

- Slater

EGR is not to cool intake charge but is to cool combustion chamber temperture to help prevent knock so if you have a EGR valve and block it of you should get more knock. The egr is not working until a specific amout of vaccum is applied and this is usually under light load. They do have a tendency to rob performance.

You could probably have you ecu remapped to eliminate the egr though.

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EGR is not to cool intake charge but is to cool combustion chamber temperture to help prevent knock so if you have a EGR valve and block it of you should get more knock.

What he said. On most cars, EGR allows for more timing advance under light-load and cruise conditions to lower emissions. I'm not sure what kind of effects you'd see if you just disconnected it. Although, the EGR on my friend's car seems to be completely clogged and all it does is throw a code once in a while. :shrug:

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EGR is not to cool intake charge but is to cool combustion chamber temperture to help prevent knock so if you have a EGR valve and block it of you should get more knock. The egr is not working until a specific amout of vaccum is applied and this is usually under light load. They do have a tendency to rob performance.

You could probably have you ecu remapped to eliminate the egr though.

That's what I meant. I would hope hot exhaust gas doesn't cool the intalke charge ;0)

I'm already running a 96-spec ECU from BSR, so the EGR has been disabled already.

Also, I should mention that NONE of the Euro spec models had an EGR or 2nd 02 sensor, so any non-US spec chip you get from an aftermarket will not even have that stuff in it.

The fact that EVERY 93+ Volvo on the road with the exception of the US-spec 93-95s do NOT have EGR, I think I'll take my chances with the theoretical 'increased chance of knock'. Besides I use high octane gas, unlike the 87 octane gas Volvo tuned all of the ECUs to run on...

- Slater

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What he said.  On most cars, EGR allows for more timing advance under light-load and cruise conditions to lower emissions.  I'm not sure what kind of effects you'd see if you just disconnected it.  Although, the EGR on my friend's car seems to be completely clogged and all it does is throw a code once in a while.  :shrug:

Most EGR systems you'll find on 850s are going to be clogged completely shut, unless the EGR system has been recently serviced and the carbon buildup has been knocked out. Even more reason why disconneting it isn't a big deal...if all of those cars were going to blow up due to detonation, they would have long ago...

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i'll pulled the egr on my b6304 just because its a total oh yeah! to pull the goddamn intake or engine when that thing is latching the intake to the goddamn block.  monkeyign egr.  i hate egt.

How did you disconnect it? Did you just rip the entire system out from the exhaust manifold to the intake manifold, and plug both manifolds with a plug? Or did you just disconnect it from the intake manifold and route the EGR pipe to atmosphere?

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What he said.  On most cars, EGR allows for more timing advance under light-load and cruise conditions to lower emissions.  I'm not sure what kind of effects you'd see if you just disconnected it.  Although, the EGR on my friend's car seems to be completely clogged and all it does is throw a code once in a while.  :shrug:

When the EGR throws a code, what happens to boost and the car? A big fat nothing? Or low boost "limp home" mode? Or what?

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When the EGR throws a code, what happens to boost and the car? A big fat nothing? Or low boost "limp home" mode? Or what?

If you are going to eliminate the egr all you have to do is make a solid plate to go between the egr valve and the intake manifold and this will block all of the exhaust gasses. This should not be a problem at all if you are running like 91 octane or better.

I have done this on a N/A motor and never got any cel or anything.

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