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Ok, Let's Try To Simplify This


Slater

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can't you use a smaller speaker/chirp to make an audioable noise? personally, I think the locks locking is loud enough... when I do silent arm on my alarm, you can hear [the locks], and see the lights flash.

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Rabbit your advice was welcomed, no worries...

Slater, like Joe said the tone is way too long...and that tone thing from radio shack is awful, i picked one up and the sound it makes is just plain...well...awful. The $ 10 horn from an auto parts store does the job but is just to long of a tone

The wires are in the trunk and should be in a wagon& sedan since the tailgate has a power lock in it...Its raining here sooo, pics to follow :)

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Rabbit your advice was welcomed, no worries...

Slater, like Joe said the tone is way too long...and that tone thing from radio shack is awful, i picked one up and the sound it makes is just plain...well...awful. The $ 10 horn from an auto parts store does the job but is just to long of a tone

The wires are in the trunk and should be in a wagon& sedan since the tailgate has a power lock in it...Its raining here sooo, pics to follow :)

So all I have to do is run a 12V piezo to the door lock motor in the trunk right?

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I regret that you had problems with the capacitor idea.  :(  Part of the equation is how much power the horn uses. If the horn draws more current to create a sound, you would need a larger capacitor to feed the horn what it requires to operate.

My humble apology for causing so much trouble.  :(  Theoretically, the idea should have worked. I've used this circuit on electronic equipment many times. The difference is the electrical circuits I use this design on don't require high current demands like a horn does. I suspect that a 1 farad capacitor would have yielded positive results.

Take care...

Rabbit

Oh man, no harm done. I'm angry at myself for 1. not pursuing it and 2. not being able to get it to work.

Bro all you did was help and for that... thankyou very much.

-Joe

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how you know what you have ??

i know my alarm has a seperate horn than my driving horns.

If you have an 850 and the remote is just the standard 2-button "Volvo" factory remote that says lock and unlock, and the LED for the alarm is the standard light in the front center of the dash, than you have the standard.

The Alarm 1 and Alarm II replace the standard alarm relay with a fancy brain that says Alarm I or Alarm II right on it. The remote is 3 button I think (maybe 4) and looks like an aftermarket alarm remote. I don't even think it says Volvo on it. They have some sort of alarm "control panel" with a few buttons and lights, usually installed on the drivers side a pillar (at least that's where the picture shows it in VADIS). You can reprogram a million things on the alarm using that control panel (including blink the lights on arm/disarm).

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i worked for a while on getting the "beep" to work...no go...i tired about 100 different capacitor combonations and nothing seemed to work.

I talked to an electrical engineer from the site with no results.

I know i'm just missing something simple...

in the trunk there is a power/signal wire for the auto locks...you tap into those and run and external horn...

now here is the problem...

the power is sent to the lock for atleast 1 full second which is WAY to long for a horn, all you want is a small chirp

capaciators should do the job but so far i have found nothing to make this mod work

Ok...Here is what you need:

I don't know your Electronic Knowledge level, But you will need a to get a 555 Timer intercooler, Build a small .25 Second (250millisecond) 1shot Pulse circuit to energize a relay that goes to the horn of your choice. Either an Air Horn or a full pledged alarm horn.

These circuits are everywhere on the Net. You may even be able to find 1 already built.

(1sec pulse from alarm)----------->[.25 sec TIMER]----------0(((((( horn

Thats all you need.

No matter how long that pulse is, you will only get .25 secs from the timer.

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according to vadis even in the basic alarm you're supposed to have a visual signal.

examing the relays under relay 211 there are an R and an L, these are voltage outputs to both the left and right side of the blinkers, my guess is you would just swap a newer relay in which you could probably order from volvo. I did see programming schematics for the Guard Alarm I using some sort of device, i wonder if you can do the same thing for the basic Guard Alarm ?

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