How To Remove The Pulley For The Auxiliaries Belt

[slee1]

Hi,

After taking out the crankshaft nut and vibration damper of my 99 S80 non-turbo, I tried to remove the crankshaft pulley by using a harmonic balance puller. I was very suprised that the timing gear was pulled out together with the crankshaft pulley (or, the pulley for the auxiliaries belt). I think the timing gear and the crankshaft pulley was connected by a small hollow pin, and luckily I didn't completely pulled out the crankshaft pulley and cut out the timing belt yet. I put the pulley back and reassembled the crankshaft nut, camshaft belt cover, etc. Thought I can still install a new drive belt.

I would like to find out how I can remove the crankshaft pulley without pulling out the timing gear. I was also not able to remove the hydraulic tensioner bottom bolt since I couldn't put a 12mm socket due to a little interferencing with the crankshaft pulley. Please let me know any good tips on how to remove the crankshaft pulley of S80. I think I can put a 12mm socket to the tensioner bottom bolt after taking out the crankshaft pulley. Thanks in advance.

[slee1]

It seems to me I just need to remove the locating pin after taking out the vibration damper and crankshaft nut. I don't need to use the harmonic balance puller unless I need to replace the oil pump based on the following timing gear pulley installation process shown in 3).

1) Install the timing gear pulley.

2) Install a new timing belt.

3) Install the pulley for the auxiliaries belt. Locate the steering gear on the locating pin in the timing gear pulley.

4) Install the auxiliaries belt.

5) Tighten the crankshaft center nut. Tighten to 300 Nm.

6) Install the vibration damper using new screws. Tighten to 35 Nm. Angle-tighten 50°.

Can anyone confirm this? Do I need to use a plier to simpy pull out the locating pin? I have done Japanese car timing belt replacement before, and I could easily pull out the crankshaft pulley with a harmonic balance puller. Do All European cars look like Volvo like tire mounting bolts (very difficult to align the mounting holes and tire), no sliding key between crankshaft and crankshaft pulley? Please correct me if I made a mistake. I don't know whether INDI mechanics can replace a 99 S80 timing belt since I have been a local Volvo INDI shop before. All I saw over there were many old 240s, 850 and no new models at that time. Any comments? Thanks.

Hi,

After taking out the crankshaft nut and vibration damper of my 99 S80 non-turbo, I tried to remove the crankshaft pulley by using a harmonic balance puller. I was very suprised that the timing gear was pulled out together with the crankshaft pulley (or, the pulley for the auxiliaries belt). I think the timing gear and the crankshaft pulley was connected by a small hollow pin, and luckily I didn't completely pulled out the crankshaft pulley and cut out the timing belt yet. I put the pulley back and reassembled the crankshaft nut, camshaft belt cover, etc. Thought I can still install a new drive belt.

I would like to find out how I can remove the crankshaft pulley without pulling out the timing gear. I was also not able to remove the hydraulic tensioner bottom bolt since I couldn't put a 12mm socket due to a little interferencing with the crankshaft pulley. Please let me know any good tips on how to remove the crankshaft pulley of S80. I think I can put a 12mm socket to the tensioner bottom bolt after taking out the crankshaft pulley. Thanks in advance.

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[slee1]

I think I know what I made a mistake when trying to pull out the crankshaft pulley after looking at crankshaft, timing gear, and crankshaft pulley drawings. The timing gear is fitted with the crankshaft by gear splines. There are also 4 bolt holes in the timing gear housing, and there are no female screws in the pulley inner diameter area. 4 bolts are used to tighten a vibration damper, a pulley and the timing gear altogher.

I simply used a harmonic balance puller without thinking too much. The two bolts of the harmonic balance puller must be engaged with the bolt holes in the timing gear. That's why the timing gear was also pulled out togeter when trying to take out the crankshaft pulley.

After spraying PB blaster to the locating pin area, I will try to remove the crankshaft pulley by a little tabbing with a rubber hammer. I hope I can remove the crankshaft pulley. After that, everything will be easy (after locking cam sprockets). Any comments? Thanks.

[Che'_Moderator]

I think I know what I made a mistake when trying to pull out the crankshaft pulley after looking at crankshaft, timing gear, and crankshaft pulley drawings. The timing gear is fitted with the crankshaft by gear splines. There are also 4 bolt holes in the timing gear housing, and there are no female screws in the pulley inner diameter area. 4 bolts are used to tighten a vibration damper, a pulley and the timing gear altogher.

I simply used a harmonic balance puller without thinking too much. The two bolts of the harmonic balance puller must be engaged with the bolt holes in the timing gear. That's why the timing gear was also pulled out togeter when trying to take out the crankshaft pulley.

After spraying PB blaster to the locating pin area, I will try to remove the crankshaft pulley by a little tabbing with a rubber hammer. I hope I can remove the crankshaft pulley. After that, everything will be easy (after locking cam sprockets). Any comments? Thanks.

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I can take a look tomorrow. I do not have an S80 here to look at.

[MrWinkey]

Actually you don't have to pull the dampner to do a t-belt on an S-80?

[slee1]

MrWinkey,

Have you ever install a new timing belt, water pump, idler pulley and hydraulic tensioner for 1999 S80? From the 2000 S80 model, you may not need to remove the crankshaft pulley since three different kinds of mechanical tensioners were used from the 2000 model. However, I need to remove the vibration damper to install a new drive belt (not even a timing belt). I could not put a 12mm socket (/w 3/8" drive) without taking out the crankshaft pulley. I will try to use a small 12 mm socket with 1/4" drive next time. Now, I am waiting for a TATO

Cam Sprocket and Timing Lock KT2712 ($37.25, www.etoolcart.com) to lock the intake only variable valve timing cam sprocket for non-turbo (exhaust only VVT for the turbo model). I tried the Cam Holder 2727 tool, but I could not lock cam sprockets with it (since there were no intake sprocket holes to put the cam holder 2727 pins). Thank you very much for your help.

Actually you don't have to pull the dampner to do a t-belt on an S-80?

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[MrWinkey]

I never lock the cams either?...it's really quite a simple job? yes I have installed a few timing belts You don't need to pull the dampner to replace the accessory belt either? Unless were not talking about the same thing?

[slee1]

MrWinkey,

Why don't you write down your timing belt replacement process for S80 variable valve timing engine? I used the Bay13 timing belt replacement instuctions, and also used the VADIS. The following are some of 1999 S80 timing belt replacement processes in VADIS.

Remove

-the right front wheel.

-the plastic nuts from the cover in the fender liner.

Install the upper camshaft belt cover.

Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the markings on the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys correspond.

Turn the crankshaft a further 1/4 turn clockwise.

Then turn back counter-clockwise until the markings correspond.

Remove the upper camshaft belt cover.

Remove the 4 vibration damper screws. Counterhold the crankshaft central nut.

Remove

-the vibration damper.

-the auxiliaries belt.

Install counterhold 999 5433 .

-the crankshaft center nut.

Remove counterhold 999 5433.

-the pulley for the auxiliaries belt.

Removing the timing belt

First remove the upper screw for the tensioner / damping unit.

Then remove the lower screw.

Turn the tensioner / damping unit so that the cylinder comes free.

Remove

-the lower screw.

-the tensioner / damping unit.

-the timing belt.

Note! The variable valve timing (VVT) unit on B6304S engines does not have a return spring. It is easily dislodged when reinstalling the timing belt.

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I know I don't need to remove the vibration damper for old model engine (like S90, 850) timing belts. No need to lock cam sprockets for non VVT engines. I was also not able to put a 12mm socket to the hydraulic tensioner bottom bolt. I'd like to follow proper instructions before making a serious mistake like $4000 repair. Thanks.

I never lock the cams either?...it's really quite a simple job? yes I have installed a few timing belts   You don't need to pull the dampner to replace the accessory belt either? Unless were not talking about the same thing?

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[MrWinkey]

Ok well you do have to remove the "dampner" if thats what you call it but that is rather simple 4- 13 mm(head size) bolts that's basically it? If your not comfortable in doing the job then pay a pro to do it?

[Guest Guest]

Mr. Winkey,

This is my second time removing 4-13 mm vibration damper bolts and 30 mm crankshaft pulley nut. In my previous posts, I said I mounted a timing gear pulley to remove the crankshaft pulley. How can you mount the timing gear pulley without removing the vibration damper bolts? I need to use the vibration damper (hole) threads to mount the timing gear puller.

Anyway, I am trying to remove the crankshaft pulley again by using a generic gear puller which has three legs, but the pulley can't be located due to a limit space (and the upper half area is steel frame). I even can't put a 12 mm bolt on the bottom bolt of the hydraulic tensioner.

I think you don't really have an experience working on 1999 S80. I think I don't need to remove the crankshaft pulley for later 2000 year model S80s. It's not a good attitude insulting a person who desperately looking for good tips. Thanks.

Ok well you do have to remove the "dampner" if thats what you call it but that is rather simple 4- 13 mm(head size) bolts that's basically it? If your not comfortable in doing the job then pay a pro to do it?

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[Bay13]

slee1

I know your dilemma. I haven't done that many of the 105K T-belts on the CVVT cars, in fact no one has. The vibration dampner plate does have to come off, and then you need to pull the pulley out, but thats where my memory stops. I'll have to look at an S80 to let you know what the get around procedure is. I just don't recall off the top of my head. I think I pull it out partially and then go from there but like I said give me some time to see if there is one in the shop, that at least needs the S-belt so I can get a good look.

[MrWinkey]

Slee

I was not trying to insult you!!! I do this board not because I have too but because I want too? You jump around quite a bit , your original post stated that you wanted to replace the Aux. belt I assumed it was the serp belt and like stated we are going by memory here. Most professionals are just starting to see S80's with higher mileage and requiring your service so going by memory at home is a bit challanging at times. Remember we do this because we want to not because we have to and are not being paid to do so? Perhaps from now on I will allow Bay 13 and others to handle your posts since I'm not doing a satisfactory job in reading your books posted. FYI ..I am an ASE Master Tech. and I have an indy shop specializing in Swedish cars been doing this for 18yrs professionally. Sorry I didn't meet your qualifications or your needs? Perhaps my information I give is crap all together? Thankyou for your understanding and for asking at V/S!

;)

[Guest Guest]

*** SOLVED THIS ISSUE ***

The bolt that comes with the timing gear puller (loaned from a local AutoZone auto part) is very long and is about 30 mm length. I can't use these long bolts. I bought two 15 mm length bolts (40 cents/each), two nuts (8 cents/each), and washers (7 cents/each) from a local brand name auto part store.

I first mounted two bolts and nuts through two long narrow holes (in circular direction) in the crankshaft pulley. And then put the timing gear puller on the top of the crankshaft pulley bolt gently. I started tightening the puller bolt (located in the center, and it comes with the timing gear puller tool). The crankshaft pulley came out little by little, and I could easily remove the crankshaft pulley in a minute (after taking out the timing gear puller). There is a locating pin on the timing gear that stuck with the crankshaft pulley. That's why I can't remove it by hands.

Anyway, there were no threads in the crankshaft pulley. Hence, the timing gear puller should not be mounted in the vibration damper bolt hole threads. The threads actually belongs to the timing gear (not the crankshaft pulley).

I install all new timing belt, idler pulley, hydraulic tensioner, 4 vibration damper bolts, serpentine belt and serpentine belt tensioner. I bought all these parts from FCPgroton very cheap. The timing cam lock device worked just fine and it is made of hard plastics. Hence, the cam lock device did not damage any intake and exhaust cam sprocket teeth.

I tried to replace a new water pump, but I could not remove a tensioner pulley mounting T45 bolt. I could not put a T45 and 3/8 flexible ratchet since there is no space. Anyway, I checked out the water pump condition and it's still strong. I feel I can use some more time (I was told the dealer's 105k service didn't include a new water pump replacement, only a new timing belt and tensioner). Anyway, I can get a message from coolant level sensor if there is any coolant leakage. A water pump usually leaks before a failure. Net time, I need to get a small air ratchet to remove this T45. I tested my car, and everything worked fine. I didn't get any check engine light (I have seen some guy's post that shows "he still got a check engine light" after a timing belt replacement from a dealer). Anyway, I am happy now.

A new serpentine belt tensioner uses a T60 (instead of 15 mm bolt) to unload the drive belt tension. Hence, I bought a 1/2" drive T60 socket (I could not find a 3/8 drive T60 socket). I can't put this T60 and 1/2" drive ratchet. So, I had to buy another a 1/2" flat serpentine belt tensioner tool ($13) to put this T60 socket. Thanks.

[Bay13]

Well I'm glad you worked it out. When these start coming into the shop on a regular basis lots of people are going to have get up to speed on the procedure.

[slee1]

Thanks, Bay13 admin,

I printed out the Bay13 timing belt procedures and VADIS instructions. Read several times before starting to work and I even kept these papers when actually working on this project to look at bolt/nut torque.

The bunge cord tip at the Bay13 really helped me a lot. The bay13 instructions are also very useful for this variable valve timing engine (although I need to use the cam lock device). Thanks a lot to you guy help and posts.

Well I'm glad you worked it out.  When these start coming into the shop on a regular basis lots of people are going to have get up to speed on the procedure.

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