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Dawes Devices Manual Boost Cntrl


rodrigo

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There is no doubt my mind the LPT can stand maybe a few solid 14 psi runs... but the engine WILL not sustain it for very long periods of time without some kind of proper cooling or fueling. Your engine will not last very long at all. I say stick with 10psi(If you have to do it) and it will make your car noticeable faster.

The LPT is not built to withstand massive amounts of pressure and when that pressure is breached... it will be a very unhappy day for you.

Just because one guy can do it doesn't mean you can. Depending on mods and many other things (such as climate) many different things can happen.

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wow, thank you all very much for al lthe info. i am super noob when it comes to turbo's...ive been n/a my whole life.

the foremost important thing is that i do not want to do damage to the car, and i do not want to take it to a drag strip. once in a while on the highway i open up late at night or on some backroads i enjoy 'spirited' driving...but yesterday i had my foot to the floor, and in 'sport' mode, ang a G35 blew by me like nothing!! either i have no clue how fast those things are (which i dont), or my turbo is just a whee little tiger. so in an effort to try and make it a little faster (G35 was just an example) i began looking around, and dawes was something i came accross that was inexpensive, but i didnt know what it did. or does.

so to answer some comments that were replied:

98BRICK: the turbo gauge was the first thing i thought because monitorung is the most important...i want to see what its doing now, wiht nomodifications, and what it will be doing.

zazzn: what is a wide band?

EricF: what is a 13G? how are these things measured, sized?

is there a more efficient turbo i can install?

i also heard (read) that the n/a cam is a big improvement for the LPT...is this true?

as you can see, i know nothing about this :)

i am still doing research (when i can), and since it was posted that this was discussed in nauseum you guys (and ladies) do not have to post if its annoying.

thanks for al lyour help so far!!!

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Wideband is an o2 sensor. It uses a range of 5 volts to measure your AFR (air fuel ratio) where as narrow band onl measure bwteen 1-0 volts.

To tune your car properly you should use this.

A 13g is your turbo. Yes there are other turbos you can install... but you want something inexpensive, right?

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thats another question...how can you tell the engine you have?

is it stamped somewhere?

i need to get more specifications on my car before i continue in this thread so i can intelligently discuss

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Either stop posting this kind of nonsense, or explain why a stock ECU program with a LPT set up could handle the increased pressure. (with no damage to the car)

9.0 Compression ratio is NOT a HUGE compression ratio. There are many boosted cars that close to me that run that as base compression to help spool the turbo up... 16 PSI on a efficent turbo and a good intercooler on a GLT would probably fine as well (on 94 octane). All turbo cars have a fuel map pass their original designed boost pressure. This is the "safty" area. Normally never used, after this specific map there is a safty feature that cuts the eaither spark/fuel so that you the user does not do dammage. This is all assuming that you are running high octane fuel. Of crouse no one will believe me but this is why a supra will run 14 PSI on a stock ecu, a talon will run 14 PSI on a stock ecu, my s70 will run 15 PSI, a turbo labaron will run 15 PSI and countless other cars.

I agree before turning up any boost it's always good to let the car breath by adding a full intake and exhaust.... These type of flow mods cumluative when it comes to power creation.

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9.0 Compression ratio is NOT a HUGE compression ratio. There are many boosted cars that close to me that run that as base compression to help spool the turbo up... 16 PSI on a efficent turbo and a good intercooler on a GLT would probably fine as well (on 94 octane). All turbo cars have a fuel map pass their original designed boost pressure. This is the "safty" area. Normally never used, after this specific map there is a safty feature that cuts the eaither spark/fuel so that you the user does not do dammage. This is all assuming that you are running high octane fuel. Of crouse no one will believe me but this is why a supra will run 14 PSI on a stock ecu, a talon will run 14 PSI on a stock ecu, my s70 will run 15 PSI, a turbo labaron will run 15 PSI and countless other cars.

I agree before turning up any boost it's always good to let the car breath by adding a full intake and exhaust.... These type of flow mods cumluative when it comes to power creation.

The point is you have absolutely *no* experience with these cars!

You explain what you are doing with your S70, which is nice, and then that some engines run higher static CR with boost. You then talk about supras and completely irrelevant things.

Then you qualify your suggestion by saying things like "efficient turbo" and "good intercooler" and "94 octane" when in actuality the chances are that the original poster has none of these things in their car.

Turbo lebarons are completely different engines, as are countless other cars... For one, they are 2v per cylinder and lower compression ratio. For two, they have completely different engine management systems. What other cars use Motronic 4.3, have similar combustion chambers with similar head flow numbers, similarly sized turbo, similar static compression ratios, etc etc etc.

To simplify it to "some people do this with some cars" and act like it's a perfectly legitimate argument makes you seem real knowledgeable :rolleyes:

For the sake of this discussion, the effective CR with 8.5:1 static and 15 psi manifold pressure is about 17:1... And with 9:1 it's about 18:1. Not an enormous difference, but certainly enough to illustrate that it's not the same thing at all.

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i am finding out a lot of info at the same time.

do you guys recomend any reading so i can get more knowledge, or suggest websites that offer this as a reading, diagrams, etc. i feel quite the noob boob asking this and having the terminology as abarrier. :huh:

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holy bejeebuzzzzzzzzz . . . . . i don't know where to start

he has a 1997 850 GLT

a. 13G (small)

b. 6 maybe 7 psi stock ?

c. no other mods done to the car

you guys are nuts if you think its okay for 14 psi, NUTS . . . .

that 13G will give up so fast at 14 psi with no other helping modifications its not even funny . . . . his stock boost is 6/7 psi, why not just get a boost gauge and up the boost to a nice safe 9/10 psi, you will feel the difference in 3 psi and how fast the turbo spools. if you want to go higher with boost, get a better flowing exhaust and intake then you can add maybe another 1 to 2 psi. but even better would just to get an ECU upgrade later on down the road. just stick with 9/10 psi and when you get the funds, just up the boost in increments . . . .

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you could run like 20psi if there was no detonation, and you'd be perfectly fine.

the only problem is that with higher compression and lots of boost from a tiny turbo and stock exhaust you most likely will be pinging to Africa and back.

so yeah

3" exhaust, bigger turbo, bigger injectors, knocksense, and a wb02 if you're feelin' sexy

that might work, but you'll probably still get detonation if you only get 91 or you live where it really hot. try water/alky injection if detonation is still a problem after the above is done.

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holy bejeebuzzzzzzzzz . . . . . i don't know where to start

he has a 1997 850 GLT

a. 13G (small)

b. 6 maybe 7 psi stock ?

c. no other mods done to the car

you guys are nuts if you think its okay for 14 psi, NUTS . . . .

that 13G will give up so fast at 14 psi with no other helping modifications its not even funny . . . . his stock boost is 6/7 psi, why not just get a boost gauge and up the boost to a nice safe 9/10 psi, you will feel the difference in 3 psi and how fast the turbo spools. if you want to go higher with boost, get a better flowing exhaust and intake then you can add maybe another 1 to 2 psi. but even better would just to get an ECU upgrade later on down the road. just stick with 9/10 psi and when you get the funds, just up the boost in increments . . . .

that sounds like a safe start. is it safe to run the car at 9/10 psi?

i got a boost gauge in, and eventually do plan to get an exhaust.

how do you up the boost to 9/10?

(more research, more research!!!!!!)

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that sounds like a safe start.  is it safe to run the car at 9/10 psi?

i got a boost gauge in, and eventually do plan to get an exhaust. 

how do you up the boost to 9/10?

(more research, more research!!!!!!)

you install the boost controller, open it up so you are at the lowest boost settings possible, might even be below stock

then go out and see what boost is, then turn the knob on the boost controller maybe once or twice then go out and see what boost is again, apply until you reach 9/10 psi

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