Dawes Devices Manual Boost Cntrl

[EricF]

^^ READ this for more info

http://www.faqs.org/faqs/autos/gasoline-faq/part1/

1.8T 4V per clyender.... bosh 4.3 and they can up the boost manually as well. thats your example... I know what you are saying and you know what I am saying.

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I'm not gonna read a 50-page FAQ

The point is, 15 psi on an HPT is about 50% higher boost levels than stock. On a LPT, it's more like over 100%. The factory fuel system has some wiggle room, but does not account for a possibly doubled amount of manifold pressure.

[zazzn]

Eric F wasn't meaning for you to read that I was talking about the other guy.

Yes you are probably right but none of us have a GLT to experiment with unless someone wants to bring one over and fool around with it.

[Bay13]

there is a safty feature that cuts the eaither spark/fuel so that you the user does not do dammage.

No such safety feature. The car has a rev limiter that cuts the power to the injectors, that could be the fuel but that feature is on the NAs as well so it's not so much a safety feature for turbos as it is for the engine.

The other item that "might" be considered Safety is when the knock sensors detect knock the ECU is programmed first to add fuel and if that doesn't help then to retard timing, and thats it for "safety".

[550]

I fool around with my GLT. 14psi is the highest I have ever gotten, didn't run it for long. There is no way to expect that stock fueling is rich enough for double + of the pressure from the turbo. :-\ I mean stock on a GLT is 6-8 psi.

[rodrigo]

you install the boost controller, open it up so you are at the lowest boost settings possible, might even be below stock

then go out and see what boost is, then turn the knob on the boost controller maybe once or twice then go out and see what boost is again, apply until you reach 9/10 psi

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if i do this, when i get the IPD ECU, will i hve to go back to stock boost setting, or essentially remove the manual boost control?

[turbor850]

if i do this, when i get the IPD ECU, will i hve to go back to stock boost setting, or essentially remove the manual boost control?

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okay, when you get the IPD ECU, you don't have to go back to stock boost settings because . . .

1. iPD when they flash the ECU up the boost therefore giving you more horsepower and the purpose of the "flash"

2. iPD will up the boost to 12 psi (says it on their site) and fuel to match

3. you can remove the boost controller if you want to, also, not quite sure how fast the GLT turbo spools with ECU and with boost controller, assuming its probably really fast . . .

4. so when you go to 12 psi with the flash, you can either leave in the boost controller to spool the turbo faster or just leave it out if you like the way the ECU is set-up

[sp5368]

If you get a ecu done I would get your manual boost controller start at low psi around 9 psi and slowly turn up the boost a turn at a time, just so you can see what reaction your action has to the car good learning experience, until you reach 12 psi. I think through my experience after 12 psi on the 13g you are actually loosing performance.

[rodrigo]

If you get a ecu done I would get your manual boost controller start at low psi around 9 psi and slowly turn up the boost a turn  at a time, just so you can see what reaction your action has to the car good learning experience, until you reach 12 psi. I think through my experience after 12 psi on the 13g you are actually loosing performance.

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i think thats what i am going to do now. i'll get a DDMBC and install and s l o w l y turn up the boost. if and when i get the ECU upgrade, i will back it down to stock setting and work up from there.

thanks a lot for helping me with this question, even though, i admit, i did not run a search before asking (comment est-ce qu'on dit: a la noobe) so i am very thankfull no one ripped me one.

as is apparent, i still have a lot tolearn about the turbo system's ways and read up more...as i said before, i never had a turbocharged car...until 3 months ago or not even.

thank you all! :)

[B Mac]

holy smokes man, i'm 18 years old and i drive my 1988 volvo 740 turbo with the turbo plus package. I recently installed the dawes wastegate bleeder on my car and OHHHH boy does it make a difference. I didnt believe the guy when we were installing it, but I'm probably pushing around 200 hp with no other mods. theres the normal lag, but as soon as the turbo starts to spin up, you'll feel it...a lot.... it slams you back into your seat and the thrust is addictive. Just be careful not to overboost the engine because of the air/gas ratio. Adding more air to the mixture causes it to run very hot, so keep it at a reasonable boost rate (ie-dont tighten the bleeder ALL the way down, giving you another 75 hp) and if you hear any pinging or piston slap, stop immediately and turn down the boost or you'll have a nice blown engine. Have fun with your wastegate bleeder and be careful because it gets REALLY fun REALLY fast, which can all boil down to a speeding ticket. Hope I've helped you.

[550]

Im sorry, but you don't have 200 HP.

[rodrigo]

Im sorry, but you don't have 200 HP.

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not to knock anyone, but thats funny.

if anyone is following my posts, they will know that i have some minor oil leak issues to take care of before the IPD ECU. i am also getting new plugs, wires, rotor, cap before anyhting else.

gotta start off clean!

[550]

oh hey dude.. I'm not knocking you on that one... Im knocking that 18 year old who thinks he has 200 HP with a MBC.