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Enigmatic Check Engine Light


Slonik

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1999 Volvo V70R

We get this car with 40k miles on it, everything is OK. Check Engine light comes on. Take it to our mechanic (he does my 960), he runs VADIS and gets a code for the outside air temp sensor being bad (code 1100) and another code (forget which). From driving the car and listening to it he tells us that there is an air leak. He does a smoke test on it but cannot find the leak. Tells us that with enough time he’ll find it but we don’t have that time and so we take it to a different mechanic. The other guy also runs the computer diagnostic and tells us that he got an error for the air mass meter sending intermittent signals. He replaces the meter and we drive off. The car sits for two weeks, in a garage, not driven. We drive it again the check engine light is back. We take it back to the mechanic. He runs the diagnostic and gives us an error for the rear oxygen sensor signal too high (2A1A) and code 280A for the front oxygen sensor permanent failure as well as an error for the outside air temp sensor being out of range. He tells us this can be caused by the fog light's proximity to the sensor and by driving with the foglights on during the day it'll cause the sensor to get a false reading. This is feasable since we did drive the car to the garage during the day with the foglights on. He replaces the temp sensor, the front oxygen sensor and resets the codes. We drive off and after 50 miles the check engine light is back on.

I don't like how the mechanic just replaced the sensor. Could the light be coming on due to something in the wiring between the sensors and the main ECU? What if it's something as simple as that?

Tomorrow we're taking the car back to the last mechanic (the guy who replaced all the sensors and the air mass meter)... he gives a one year warranty on all parts and labor.

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1999 Volvo V70R

We get this car with 40k miles on it, everything is OK. Check Engine light comes on. Take it to our mechanic (he does my 960), he runs VADIS and gets a code for the outside air temp sensor being bad (code 1100) and another code (forget which). From driving the car and listening to it he tells us that there is an air leak. He does a smoke test on it but cannot find the leak. Tells us that with enough time he’ll find it but we don’t have that time and so we take it to a different mechanic. The other guy also runs the computer diagnostic and tells us that he got an error for the air mass meter sending intermittent signals. He replaces the meter and we drive off. The car sits for two weeks, in a garage, not driven. We drive it again the check engine light is back. We take it back to the mechanic. He runs the diagnostic and gives us an error for the rear oxygen sensor signal too high (2A1A) and code 280A for the front oxygen sensor permanent failure as well as an error for the outside air temp sensor being out of range. He tells us this can be caused by the fog light's proximity to the sensor and by driving with the foglights on during the day it'll cause the sensor to get a false reading. This is feasable since we did drive the car to the garage during the day with the foglights on. He replaces the temp sensor, the front oxygen sensor and resets the codes. We drive off and after 50 miles the check engine light is back on.

I don't like how the mechanic just replaced the sensor. Could the light be coming on due to something in the wiring between the sensors and the main ECU? What if it's something as simple as that?

Tomorrow we're taking the car back to the last mechanic (the guy who replaced all the sensors and the air mass meter)... he gives a one year warranty on all parts and labor.

I dont think I say this very often, but it maybe worth a trip to the dealer. Something sounds off here.

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Alright, well, I went back to the guy (if you bay area people want to know which mechanics I'm talking about, I'll be more than happy to reveal their names) and got the full record from him (of everything that he did) as well as the oxygen sensor that he took out. He already got rid of the air temp sensor and air mass meter.

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Are there any symptoms or just the CEL? I have the same car and I have a few mechanics, only one of whom can actually retrieve codes from it, beside the dealer. You have two Independent mechanics around you with Vadis? Man....

I had a problem recently that required replacing the MAF and the front O2 sensor. They went at the same time, or one was compensating for the other so when one went, the CEL came on and the car drove terribly.

Also, make sure to check the connector on the MAF. Theres a writeup in the VS maintenance section on this. Oh.. and turn your lights off in the daytime so you can't burn your fogs.

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Huuumm...well the outside temp sensor should not set a CEL as far as I know ..now the Air temp sensor will but that is basically a MAF code, as for the front and rear 0/2 codes possibly they are misunderstood and the whole problem could be the cat and the efficenty level?...really hard to say as it seems like your getting bounced around and like previously stated perhaps a trip to the dealer is in order. Perhaps these guys are getting the codes and don't have the proper information about the codes? Seems that way to me,however I'm just going by what you stated? If you had all the code #'s that were retrieved it would make things easier? ;)

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The ECM1100 is the out side temp sensor and the engine wants to know that information, if it's outside the range expected then the code could be set. There are at least 4 1100 codes, to high to low, intermittent, perminate etc.

The mass air flow meter on your car doesn't have the connection problem like the 1998 and below. There are several codes that could be set for a bad MAF.

Sounds like the car, needs to have the codes read, then the failure they indicate confirmed, and then parts replaced, then a good long test drive, maybe more than one key cycle, and a last minute check for codes prior to returning the car to you.

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Well inspect my but for flying monkeys...I'll be darned! I have never ran into that code before....I apologize... and if I did I never recalled a MIL ? Not challenging but asorbing? Rubbing mustache and bottom of chin (think mode) ...Nice to chat with a dealer tech :D ...I still think there are other issues such as a possible cat efficenty causing the whole issue? Just my thoughts ...We are off the clock ya' know B)

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Huuumm...well the outside temp sensor should not set a CEL as far as I know ..now the Air temp sensor will but that is basically a MAF code, as for the front and rear 0/2 codes possibly they are misunderstood and the whole problem could be the cat and the efficenty level?...really hard to say as it seems like your getting bounced around and like previously stated perhaps a trip to the dealer is in order. Perhaps these guys are getting the codes and don't have the proper information about the codes? Seems that way to me,however I'm just going by what you stated? If you had all the code #'s that were retrieved it would make things easier? ;)

I have all the codes from the mechanic that we went to twice in a row with the CEL... he ran VADIS for sure.

First visit,

1100-- outside temp sensor permanent fault

261A-- MAF signal too high

2A1A-- rear oxygen sensor code (mechanic said that it may have to be replaced in future)

This visit he replaced the outside air temp sensor and air mass meter. Car sat in the garage for two weeks. Driven again for 20 miles, Check Engine light comes back on.

Second visit,

2A1A-- rear oxygen sensor signal too high (this can be caused by the front oxygen sensor failing since they work together)

280A-- front oxygen sensor permanent failure

Replaced front oxygen sensor, reset codes, test drove the car. Said that the rear oxygen sensor is fine, at least for now. After about 50 miles of us driving it, the Check Engine light came back.

That right there is exactly what happened, with records to prove it.

I mean, it's somewhat reasonable to think that now the rear oxygen sensor is causing this... but the whole series of all the sensors failing is a bit off. Not at 40k miles.

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I live in the bay and would be interested to hear who it is. I live and work in SF so if it's near San Jose I may not know who they are. The code was ECM-1100? I don't have VIDA on my home PC so I can't help you right now.

What is the code description? Any aftermarket goodies? I'll check into it tomorrow if I have some time.

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I live in the bay and would be interested to hear who it is. I live and work in SF so if it's near San Jose I may not know who they are. The code was ECM-1100? I don't have VIDA on my home PC so I can't help you right now.

What is the code description? Any aftermarket goodies? I'll check into it tomorrow if I have some time.

I sent you a PM with all the mechanic info.

The car is completely stock.

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OK I just caught your previous post. Looking at your history, perhaps the rear o2 is bad or just as likely there is an air leak. Check your intake hoses for cracks/tears. Especially the smaller ones. Get the codes read from the new MIL and see what to do from there

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My car had 104K miles on it when my problem occured. My ODBII codes were for fuel trim -- only Volvo could pull the 02 sensor codes. <_<

My theory on my problem is the bad Air Mass Meter caused the running-rich conditions which in-turn killed my aging front O2 sensor. This is merely speculation of course.

Get your current code read and hopefully its for the rear O2 sensor or something less troublesome. About once every two months my car gives me a P0455.

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Ok, it's fixed now.

Basically... there is a volvo service bulletin out there which outlines a fault in the wiring harnesses for the front and rear O2 sensors... they oxidize and don't work properly and cause the sensors to malfuntion.

There is an adapter/fix kit that went for about $240 that fixes it. It comes with two new wiring harnesses, for the front and rear as we as a new rear O2 sensor.

This kit installs quickly and fixes the problem.

Yeah...

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