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Shaved Engine Bays


rodrigo

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<2, but I made a few updates (wheels, grill) after the car was built. That paint job/interior/engine bay/stereo had about 60k miles on it when those pics were taken.

Edit: And it was built in 1994/1995 (in case I get yellow silicon hose haters :) )

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Guest Guest_vclvc_*

from what gathered by looking more closely at the engine bay, there are 'faux' firewall sections to hide a lot of the engine stuff. if you look at the pic closely, there is a plastic cap thing on the driver side hood hinge, and another cover plate by the hinge on the passenger side. there is also, i think, another plate on the bottom side of the firewall...and i think its all dented to look like its the real thing.

i do think that they run a lot of their stuff inside the fenders, hidden unside the frame rails, wrapped in fake coolant hose, and underneath those plates.

quite honestly, i think it looks really nice, although the turbo'd 240 someone posted here is also very nice with clean exposed wiring.

i really give the first guy to do it a lot of credit. to think it, do it, and have it come out good is pretty impressive.

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Now I miss my MKII.

I would love to see a Volvo with a smoothed enginbay with all the welds moulded. But that would be a whole lot more work than doing one on a dub. If I had a spare Volvo I would maybe do that, but it would more likely end up as a track car.

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Guest DougK

quite honestly, i think it looks really nice, although the turbo'd 240 someone posted here is also very nice with clean exposed wiring.

The trick would be, (now that Im doing another one) is to weld every hole shut in the engine bay and grind them smooth. Then, I would drill a single firewall grommet behind the cylinder head of the motor, or just above the transmission bellhousing. Then I could run all the wiring for the sensors, injectors, TPS ect up along the back of the motor and then under the intake. That would make for almost 0 visable wiring. Obviously, I have to have *some* wiring visable (mostly battery cable to the starter) but thats about it. Nice thing is, on the new car, the T6 motor has the alternator on the same side as the starter... so thats even less wiring.

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The trick would be, (now that Im doing another one) is to weld every hole shut in the engine bay and grind them smooth. Then, I would drill a single firewall grommet behind the cylinder head of the motor, or just above the transmission bellhousing. Then I could run all the wiring for the sensors, injectors, TPS ect up along the back of the motor and then under the intake. That would make for almost 0 visable wiring. Obviously, I have to have *some* wiring visable (mostly battery cable to the starter) but thats about it. Nice thing is, on the new car, the T6 motor has the alternator on the same side as the starter... so thats even less wiring.

You won't see it if you relo the battery and run 4ga to the starter under the car and terminate with black loom.

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Guest DougK

I did have a battery in the trunk, I just didn't want to run the cable under the car (and it was 1/0 gauge :P). It worked out though, good 'nuff for me.

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