kenk Posted April 22, 2004 Report Share Posted April 22, 2004 i was wondering....how exactly do i tell when various things need doing.... ive got 160k right now on a 96 850.this is what ive heard, is this all correct?wheel bearings. you hear them way before they go. get very very noisytie rods and ball joint, with the car jacked up, see if there is any free play left to right, ball joint check for play up and down. brakes... not really sure what is the standard and how do i tell that im getting close. im prolly gonna do them myself, and am familiar with the proceedure, but how exactly do i know when the point where i should be doing them at..... i know you measure the meat left on the pads.... i think the tolerance is what like 10mm? but is there a easy way to measure it without taking the pads off... just kinda have throuble getting in there to see whats what. coolant flush.... i think haynes says what every 2 years or 30k.... i do 30 k in a year, but its all highway. so..... is that something i should be doing as well...thanks guys. hoping for at least another 160 k :-). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mesoam Posted April 22, 2004 Report Share Posted April 22, 2004 Rear rotors have a thickness of 9.6mm new, and should have at least 8.9mm when replacing pads only. Brake pads new are 9.4mm and should be replaced at 2mm.The pads in the below pictures are 12mm new and need replacing at 3mm. The Volvo rotor new is 26mm and should be replaced when only 23.8mm is left. Normally you will get two sets of pads to one set of rotors. You can keep your eye on pad wear by comparing the backing plate (5mm) to the remaining pad. You can usually get a good enough look through the spokes of your wheels.that is directly from Rich's Bay13 portion of the site Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DEWFPO Posted April 22, 2004 Report Share Posted April 22, 2004 Timing belt tensioner and pulleys at second Timing-Belt change (140,000 miles on these cars). Some even replace the water pump at this interval. DEWFPO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted April 22, 2004 Report Share Posted April 22, 2004 A good top end cleaner wouldn't be a bad idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bay13 Posted April 23, 2004 Report Share Posted April 23, 2004 check out the below link to the Repairs section of this site.FWD recommended service Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850boston Posted April 23, 2004 Report Share Posted April 23, 2004 So I am approaching 140k, and was planning on replacing the water pump and tentioner on my 94 850 na. What about the pullies? Is it the bearings within the pulleies which need replacment? What is involved in replacing these and how much should I expect to pay? Any good sources for them?I just bought a S-Belt pulley, and it was running like $100! (I found a pulley and belt for $35 on ebay from eEuropart.I hope that isn't too many queations all at one! (did I just hijack this thread?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DEWFPO Posted April 24, 2004 Report Share Posted April 24, 2004 In my opinion, it's more important to replace the pulleys at 140k than the water pump, as long as the water pump isn't leaking, making noise, or having excessive play. I changed the T-belt, tensioner and both pulleys at 152,000 on our 960 a couple of months ago, but left the water pump alone. Once removed from the engine, the old pulleys definitely made a noiceable noise that was not apparent when attached to the engine. The new pulleys were dead quiet. They're easy to replace and are not serviceable.If you have the extra cash and would sleep better at night, go ahead and replace the water pump, it's you're call. I bought Volvo OE parts from Borton at a great discount. I always recommend Volvo OE parts, especailly when you're taking about the timing belt. DEWFPO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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