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Ok so I have two JL10W0's with a 300W amp, something like 250RMS. When I have the stereo about 3/4 there is a noticable dimming of dash lights and even headlights. Does that mean my alternator is about to go, the battery is about a year old so I do not believe that is the problem. This problem has just developed in the last three weeks. Ironically it is when I went from a single 12W0 to a dual 10W0, do you think the two 10's are pulling more than a single 12? How hard is it to put in a new one, its pretty far under there If I recall Correctly. Any info would be great.

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Ok so I have two JL10W0's with a 300W amp, something like 250RMS.  When I have the stereo about 3/4 there is a noticable dimming of dash lights and even headlights.  Does that mean my alternator is about to go, the battery is about a year old so I do not believe that is the problem.  This problem has just developed in the last three weeks.  Ironically it is when I went from a single 12W0 to a dual 10W0, do you think the two 10's are pulling more than a single 12? How hard is it to put in a new one, its pretty far under there If I recall Correctly.  Any info would be great.

well I would upgrade the battery to an Optima or something along those lines and slap a 1 farad cap on the power wire to the amp to help the electrical system better handle the sudden draws of power (lights dimming) but yes the increase load will cause alternator failure and I would take it to a good place that rebuilds them and see if they can get 130-150 amps out of it

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how are you wiring the JL's?

maybe your sub can't take the power and has to pull more than it can?

volvo alternators are pretty good

I think they are wired in series, i need to double check, I bought them from a friend once I blew my single 12. How hard is it to get the alternator out to have it redone, also a cost?

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Changing the alt is a real pain. Looking at almost 2 hours if you know what you're after. You're better off being sure before you bother with changing it.

Alternaters "work" three times per full revolution and it is very possible for one portion to wear and the alt to be only working at 2/3 capacity. In fact, they generally die in thirds if it's not instant.

What you need to get is a volt meter. Use it to check your voltage coming out of the alt, just before the batt and just after the batt. Checking in this way will help you to pin down any problems in that area. Do this at idle with your system off. If you're getting good voltage out of your alt then there's nothing wrong with it. If that's the case I would then suggest you get yourself a cap and possibly look into rewrapping your alt. A shop may be able to get about 120 amps out of it without too much trouble.

If you plan on putting more draw on your electrical system with either a larger system or more toys then I would suggest you spring for an upgraded alternater.

A good "deep cycle" batt is also a very good thing to have when running extra audio equipment, as Merlin said.

If you find that your alt is bad I have a stock 100 amp alt for sale. I also have caps for sale. If you decide you need/want to upgrade your alternater I can put you in touch with the people who made me an OEM fit, 220 amp beast.

At any rate, be sure to pinpoint your problem before going much further.

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kinda wierd, your alt should be fine ;)

As the previous poster said, look into a deep cycle battery, hell of a lot easier to replace then the alt. Also just fyi, I run (2) JL 10w3v2's on about ~700w rms, on the stock electrical system. No problems yet, ::knock on wood::.

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I think they are wired in series, i need to double check, I bought them from a friend once I blew my single 12.  How hard is it to get the alternator out to have it redone, also a cost?

A local shop around here does boat/car alts for I believe $50-60 a piece.

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