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Does It Really Take An Hour


vstylz

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If the code stored is making the check engine light come on then a generic OBD II scanner can pull the codes. Any thing else, the trans, abs, climate control etc. The generic OBD II will not pull the codes. You could have a check engine light on because the transmission requested that it be turned on, or the ABS could have requested it.

Generally speaking if a Volvo Scan tool is used the dia time is usually 1/2 hour, if the car has to be connected to the VIDA cart then the dia time is usually 1 hour.

These Items are not on the clock as is nothing at the dealer, or an independent for that matter. You agree to a set dollar value, often refered to as time. They really shouldn't say time cause then everyone thinks it's an on the clock thing, it's not. If I'm faster than joe blow I'm not getting payed less, quite the opposite. I finish that job and move on to another. No where in the automotive field is work done by how long it actually takes you to do the work. (shorter or longer) and the courts know this. ;)

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by the way guys the code thrown was a P0455 (Evap system leak - large)

Try a new gas cap - could have a bad seal. Or the gas cap was not on all the way last time the car was filled up. Or whoever filled up the gas left left the cap sittng on top of the pump and drove off ;0)

If that's not it could be the charcoal canister nipple cracked or fell off and you need a new canister. Or it could be a cut or slash in one of the lines going from the fill tube to the charcoal canister.

You can buy diagnostc testers that help find the evap leaks quickly. There's a cap that screws in place of your gas cap, you pressurize the system, and take a reading from a gauge. Then you go hunting for the leak.

But in all honesty, anytime a car has an evap pressure code the FIRST and easiest thign I do is check or replace the gas cap.

You can also clear the code and see if it comes back. If the last time it was filled up you didn't screw the cap on fully, it would have triggered the code. Then the next time you fill up and screw it on tightly that time, the code is still there until it's cleared. That's why you should clear the code first. If it comes right back, you know it's still a problem and and should replace the gas cap and clear the code again next. If it still comes back then you go hunting for the the leak somewhere in the evap system.

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Try a new gas cap - could have a bad seal. Or the gas cap was not on all the way last time the car was filled up. Or whoever filled up the gas left left the cap sittng on top of the pump and drove off ;0)

If that's not it could be the charcoal canister nipple cracked or fell off and you need a new canister. Or it could be a cut or slash in one of the lines going from the fill tube to the charcoal canister.

You can buy diagnostc testers that help find the evap leaks quickly. There's a cap that screws in place of your gas cap, you pressurize the system, and take a reading from a gauge. Then you go hunting for the leak.

But in all honesty, anytime a car has an evap pressure code the FIRST and easiest thign I do is check or replace the gas cap.

You can also clear the code and see if it comes back. If the last time it was filled up you didn't screw the cap on fully, it would have triggered the code. Then the next time you fill up and screw it on tightly that time, the code is still there until it's cleared. That's why you should clear the code first. If it comes right back, you know it's still a problem and and should replace the gas cap and clear the code again next. If it still comes back then you go hunting for the the leak somewhere in the evap system.

Great points, thank you thank you :)

I dont think its the gas cap though because thats what i first thought of and it seemed fine and tight... but we'll probably still test it actually!

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