Jump to content
Volvospeed Forums

Am I Crazy?


Boomin850

Recommended Posts

So, I started thinking today. I kinda wanna switch up my system to something that is extremely responsive, but could still give me some boomin bass when I want it. So I started thinking...sell the two 10's and buy four 8's. Why four?...I dunno...just cuz I could I guess. I was also thinking of just buying a single 10w7, but that would be a lil more than I wanna spend. Any input?

-MIKE D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think you're going to notice much of a difference between 2x10s and 4x8s... If you were going from 12"s to 8"s you may notice an extra tightness. 4 of them is going to make it more sloppy tho. May go with 2, slightly higher power ones?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 8s and 2 10s will give you similar output - depending on what you plan to feed them.

Unless you're changing the amp you won't notice much change unless you have one of those amps that puts out a ton more power into lower ohm loads. (Just researched your amp - if you drop that sucker into a 1ohm mono load... WOAH! 1600 watts!)

So 4, 4ohm subs, wired to present a 1ohm load to your amp will give you more than double the power that you're getting to (what I assume are) 2 4ohm subs wired to give a 2ohm load @ 600watts. You will CERTAINLY notice that difference. You may lose some low-end bass though depending on the subs.

Have you considered finding an AccuMatch device? Here's an example:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...item=5804086791

I have one that I intend to use someday... Do some research on them - you may be able to find one and save yourself the $ of buying new subs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my response will always be:

if you are looking for tight bass response, espeically good transient bass (fast bass so tospeak), its not abou tgetting a ton of 8s in the back of the car, its about:

1. getting a really good midbass speaker upfront, to anchor the bassnote, most subs cannot do midbass properly, or fast enough...

2. get a good sound quality 10 or 12 in the back.

3. cross the front at 60-80hz and up, the subs 60-80hz and down.

this combo will satisfy almost anyone when it comes to getting that fast bass attack...

getting a ton of 8s will just take up more room, while not making the subs go low enough...thoug there are 8s that dont fit that description, but my point is still there... :)

b

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the w7 is a really really nice sub, and also really pricey...personally, if money is an issue, i would say, spend some cash towards shoring up your front stage...

if your front stage can go wtih the utmost authority down to say 70 or 60 hz, then the sub only needs to go from 60hz down, whcih makes it more efficient and thus louder...you can gow tih someting not quite as ower, or heck something like two image dynamics idq12s, send about 300 watts to each, and it will be pretty much just as loud as w7 for quite ab it less money :)

:)

b

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah I replaced the 8" subs int he rear deck with Rockford Fosgate Punchs to compliment the RF components I put in the doors. I also left the pair of 10" subs I have in the trunk. The combination works good for me, mainly because the RF's have good power and the 10"s have a nice tight sound. JL's are very nice but yes they have pricey. If you're just looking for power I would wouldnt spend the money on a JL, thats more for the tight bass. But I agree that swapping four 8"s for a pair of 10" would not be a good swtich.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah I replaced the 8" subs int he rear deck with Rockford Fosgate Punchs to compliment the RF components I put in the doors. I also left the pair of 10" subs I have in the trunk. The combination works good for me, mainly because the RF's have good power and the 10"s have a nice tight sound. JL's are very nice but yes they have pricey. If you're just looking for power I would wouldnt spend the money on a JL, thats more for the tight bass. But I agree that swapping four 8"s for a pair of 10" would not be a good swtich.

there are no subs in the rear deck. they're 2 way 8" speakers. :)

speakers in your rear deck, in conjunction with Subs in the trunk is a total waste.

Subs in the trunk ? remove rear deck speakers...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

there are no subs in the rear deck. they're 2 way 8" speakers. :)

speakers in your rear deck, in conjunction with Subs in the trunk is a total waste.

Subs in the trunk ? remove rear deck speakers...

Already done...I got 2 speakers in the front doors and 2 in the kick pods. Thinking about mebe putting some 6x9's in but not sure yet. Just got a kicker 4 channel amp off of 850drag for $40 tho. So Im tempted to put them to work.

-MIKE D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I actually considered taking out the rear deck speakers for that ported box effect, but the center arm rest/ ski poll opening works the same way. PLus I have the entire trunk sound deadened. I'm actaulyl not a big fan of the ported sound. I go more for the tight bass. So inside my car you can hear and feel it, but outside I can roll through the most conservative neighborhood. Having the rear deck act as a port would only direct all that air to thump my rear window. I dont consider having the rear deck a waste, more speakers the finer you can tune it to get all of the sound frequencies

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Big Ed...

If you're trying to share the air space between subs and anything you have in your deck you're making your car sound worse by forcing the deck speakers (which arn't subs by the way) to fight against the actual subs in the trunk. A battle they just physically can't win. Taking speakers out of your rear deck is not the same as porting a box, either. Unless you have your subs aimed at the holes in your rear deck they're going to be loading off of the trunk lid area (assuming you placed them some what normally) and the volume of air inside the box isn't changed if your rears are in or not. Because of this, you're not making much of a change in the way they're allowed to operate, you're just letting more air escape the trunk which, basically translates to slightly more dB. Ever noticed that the same system in an SUV is louder than in a car's trunk? Or even how a car's sound will change with seats up then seats down? This is true for both ported and sealed boxes.

Boomin, where are you trying to put 6x9's?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Boomin, where are you trying to put 6x9's?

I was thinking of making a custom encloser that would have magnet/bottom of the cone sealed from the moving air and keeping some type of port on the sides of the speakers. I have no idea tho. That was just a quick bs thought in my mind. any suggestions?

-MIKE D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...