Jump to content
Volvospeed Forums

Need Some Engine Help


biged30

Recommended Posts

had the CEL for misfires after I did a tune-up with bosch platinum plugs. as per what a lot of you say I changed out the plantinums for coppers. But now I'm getting noticeable misfires with the whole engine shaking and dying after idling at a stop light. Compression problem? The exhaust sounds a lot different too. Very quiet but deep sound as it sputters. So I took a look underneath and without being directly under the car I can see something dripping from the area of the CAT? Could the misfires lead to something with the CAT? I luckily have tomorrow off so I can take it in to the shop if necessary. What do these symtoms sound like? Cap, rotor, wires, and plugs are new. Cleaned off the MAF connection and did the tie down suggection in the forum. The car was runing rich as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

had the CEL for misfires after I did a tune-up with bosch platinum plugs. as per what a lot of you say I changed out the plantinums for coppers. But now I'm getting noticeable misfires with the whole engine shaking and dying after idling at a stop light. Compression problem? The exhaust sounds a lot different too. Very quiet but deep sound as it sputters. So I took a look underneath and without being directly under the car I can see something dripping from the area of the CAT? Could the misfires lead to something with the CAT? I luckily have tomorrow off so I can take it in to the shop if necessary. What do these symtoms sound like? Cap, rotor, wires, and plugs are new. Cleaned off the MAF connection and did the tie down suggection in the forum. The car was runing rich as well.

Do you have any codes being thrown at the moment?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

can anyone at least narrow down the possibilities? throttle body? air mass meter? fuel pump? This is a little hard to diagnois especially since a simple misfire shouldnt have the whole car shaking like it is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the plugs really the reason for all the shaking and the dying at idle? With the Bosch platinums I didnt have the shaking or dying ever. This leads me to believe there is something else in there going wrong. BUt so far the CEL is only goign off for the misfires.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll look into the wires then. They may have been damaged somehow, but that would suck since they are only about a onth old. I know some go with OEM, some go with Magnecor, but what do you reccommend that I could purchase at Auto Zone or Advanced Auto? They basically have Bosch, Accel and generic to choose from. I want to be able to replace the stuff and take care of it today. Don't really want to sit around waiting for wires through the mail.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll look into the wires then. They may have been damaged somehow, but that would suck since they are only about a onth old. I know some go with OEM, some go with Magnecor, but what do you reccommend that I could purchase at Auto Zone or Advanced Auto? They basically have Bosch, Accel and generic to choose from. I want to be able to replace the stuff and take care of it today. Don't really want to sit around waiting for wires through the mail.

I dunno about the others, but my Bosch wires lasted no more than 3k miles. I don't know if the common manufacturers other than Bosch have an application for our car. I went back w/ OEM Bougicord and have had zero problems since then. If I Recall Correctly, they can be had at the dealer for $90 ish dollars, or you can wait a couple days and get them from FCP for half that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I bet you have a bad plug. But it's easy to first check the wires. Pull them off and take a good look at them BUT If they are more than three years old, just toss em and get new ones. Change the cap and rotor as well. Use Volvo OEM plugs gapped to .028. Don't use anything else.

Everything can be had from FCPgroton.com for a good price.

Lastly, check you air induction tubes make sure they are all in tight and not broken. Espically around where you were working like the turbo outlet, and the intercooler inlet hoses. Also check the throttle body hose. IF the car will idle, pinch and move the hoses with your hand. A leak will manifest itself by either fixing your idle or killing it when you grab the bad hose. You may also hear a loud air-sucking sound if you find it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah when I checked the wires one had been pinched. I got a new set coming in from FCP Groton coming on Wednesday so hopefuly that'll do the trick. Just in case I also got a set of OEM plugs. Although that'll be the 2nd option since my friend gave me a set of Densos at $7.50 a piece so hopefully those with the OEM wires will do the trick. If not, then its all OEM in my engine.

Since I had some concern with the exhaust sounding funny it brings up another question. When do you know when the CAT has gone? My vehicle was running rich for awhile and I have read that it will affect the CAT over time. I'm sure my CAT is fine, but just for future reference I would like to know.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...