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Front Brake Job


Slater

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I need to replace the pads and rotors on the wife's 01 V70 with 45k miles. I was told that while I have everything off that I should incpect the seals and bearings.

I assume bearings means wheel bearings. And is the seal some sort of rubber seal that covers the bearings?

What exactly should I be checking and what type of problems should I be looking for?

The B1y13 instructions for brakes only covers the P1 cars, not the P2 cars.

The car does not act like it has bad wheel bearings, so I'm sure they are fine. But I have to order some other parts tomorrow from FCP so if it's a good idea to replace whatever seals and/or bearings whi I'm in there let me know and I'll go ahead and order the parts. Otherwise if it will be fine I'll hold off until next brake job which I assume will be somewhere around 90k-100k.

Any words of wisdom Rich?

Thanks!

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I need to replace the pads and rotors on the wife's 01 V70 with 45k miles. I was told that while I have everything off that I should incpect the seals and bearings.

I assume bearings means wheel bearings. And is the seal some sort of rubber seal that covers the bearings?

What exactly should I be checking and what type of problems should I be looking for?

The B1y13 instructions for brakes only covers the P1 cars, not the P2 cars.

The car does not act like it has bad wheel bearings, so I'm sure they are fine. But I have to order some other parts tomorrow from FCP so if it's a good idea to replace whatever seals and/or bearings whi I'm in there let me know and I'll go ahead and order the parts. Otherwise if it will be fine I'll hold off until next brake job which I assume will be somewhere around 90k-100k.

Any words of wisdom Rich?

Thanks!

What context was this written? When I hear brakes and seals I think piston seals.

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What context was this written? When I hear brakes and seals I think piston seals.

I do too. This was at Auto Zone. They had a big note on their computer when they looked up the rotor that said "RECOMMEND CHECK SEAL AND BEARING WHEN CHANGING FRONT BRAKE". No other rotor they pulled up said that.

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:lol: ...that is for rear drive cars !!! They have inner and outer bearings and a grease seal in the rear. It does not apply to your car. Just buy the pads and rotors and that is all you will need ..."However" I seriously recommend OEM stuff and not auto zone stuff (the squeal factor) Tools are a 7mm allen wrench or socket and (I forget bolt size for the caliper bracket I think 15,16 or 17mm) but new OEM rotors come with new mounting bolts for the caliper bracket. It's a very simple set up you will have no problems ;)

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:lol: ...that is for rear drive cars !!! They have inner and outer bearings and a grease seal in the rear. It does not apply to your car. Just buy the pads and rotors and that is all you will need ..."However" I seriously recommend OEM stuff and not auto zone stuff (the squeal factor) Tools are a 7mm allen wrench or socket and (I forget bolt size for the caliper bracket I think 15,16 or 17mm) but new OEM rotors come with new mounting bolts for the caliper bracket. It's a very simple set up you will have no problems ;)

Geesh, that figures. I've done plenty od RWD cars which is why I thought it sounded a little funny.

As far as the rotors, I was only pricing things out at the "Zone". I will be getting Brembo rotors from FCP Groton and using anti-squeal coating on the pads. There really isn't anything magical about OEM rotors vs Brembos that would mak ethem squeal less. That's 95% pad.

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No, but when your Brembos shudder and pulsate you'll wish you had spent your hard earned money on factory parts. There is a reason the Brembos are considerably cheaper than factory stuff. I've tried most of the different brands out there and they are hit and miss at best. Sometimes they work choice and then sometimes they boomerang right back around and bite you in the backside. Not that I have not had the once in a blue moon issue with factory stuff but it is much less frequent than when using wildcat parts. On a side note, the ATE rotors have given me excellent service in the past too. All I stock anymore are factory Volvo or ATE, I run nothing but factory pads.

Mark

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No, but when your Brembos shudder and pulsate you'll wish you had spent your hard earned money on factory parts. There is a reason the Brembos are considerably cheaper than factory stuff. I've tried most of the different brands out there and they are hit and miss at best. Sometimes they work choice and then sometimes they boomerang right back around and bite you in the backside. Not that I have not had the once in a blue moon issue with factory stuff but it is much less frequent than when using wildcat parts. On a side note, the ATE rotors have given me excellent service in the past too. All I stock anymore are factory Volvo or ATE, I run nothing but factory pads.

Mark

So everyone with Powerslot, Powerstop, Brembo BB, and other non-factory rotors shutter and pulsate? Sounds like someone uses a "torque arm" on their impact wrench to tighten lugnuts causing them to warp in short order...

A quality brake rotor that has been ground and balanced properly will not shutter if you install the pads correctly and torque the lugnuts properly. I don't see how Volvos are any different than every other car on the road. Does Volvo sprinkle magic pixie dust on their rotors?

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