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New Owner Questions


tmark

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Hello all. I recently purchased a 96 854 T w/85K mi. and change on it. One owner, with most of the service receipts and book dealer stamped to 80K. I have started stage 0 from reviewing posts on this board and had a few questions.

1. Front oxygen sensor was replaced at 45K under warranty. Should it be replaced again? Rear one hasn't been replaced. Is there a rule of thumb on replacing them?

2. I will be replacing the t-stat, coolant temp sensor, coolant, overflow cap, radiator hoses, bypass and other coolant related hoses I can find.

Anyway, while underneath the car and looking at the location of various items I noticed two rubber hoses, drivers side, near the turbo (viewed from laying on your back, feet sticking out the front of car). They attach to the metal water pipe running at the back of the engine. They are about 5-7 inches long. Are they factory specific or just plain heater hose? I called FCP and they didn't have a listing. They aren't the heater hoses coming out of the fire wall.

3. What do you use to clean out the intercooler and associated hoses? Gas, TB cleaner, something else sensor safe?

4. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor replaced at 70K. Do it again?

5. How long should the fuel pump run if you turn the car on without starting it? This one seems to run 3-4seconds.

6. When replacing the rotors the Haynes manual says to replace the caliper bolts. Is that necessary?

7. ECC fan - When in "Auto" does the fan vary speed according to interior temperature requirements?

I am considering doing the PCV system after reading this board, just getting my nerve up. May chicken out and let my indie Volvo mechanic do it. I'll be flushing the tranny once my kit from IPD comes in then tackle the rest of the vacuum hoses and some more preventive maintenance.

This is my third Volvo, first was a 340 when I was stationed overseas, then a 740 I brought back with me. Wanted to replace my Asian car with something "interesting" and I hope this isn't too painful an experience. Hopefully this won't be my last Volvo. Love the ride, seats and the fact you don't see one on every corner.

Thanks in advance. I hope to be able to post my experiences and help others out as I can. Cheers!

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3. What do you use to clean out the intercooler and associated hoses? Gas, TB cleaner, something else sensor safe?

Mineral Spirits from Hardware Store (including Lowes, Home Depot, etc)

4. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor replaced at 70K. Do it again?

At 15K miles of use, no need to replace if you are using...

Bosh Copper or Champion Copper plugs

OEM Volvo wires

OEM Volvo cap

OEM Volvo rotor

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congrats on the purchase.

Your car sounds maintained by what you posted. Just replace rad hoses and vac lines.. 02's and stuff no need unless you are getting a code.

Yes the ecc fan goes to what you temp you asked for at variable speeds.

If your looking at any performance modes such as a chip then assess then start your stage0 more agressively. If you choose staying near stock and at your low mileage then dont be too eager to spend the big bucks unless your wallet is full :P tranny flush is a great idea... go synthetic!

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1. Front oxygen sensor was replaced at 45K under warranty. Should it be replaced again? Rear one hasn't been replaced. Is there a rule of thumb on replacing them?

nah, don't worry about it. they're usually good for 100K as far as i know.

2. I will be replacing the t-stat, coolant temp sensor, coolant, overflow cap, radiator hoses, bypass and other coolant related hoses I can find.

Anyway, while underneath the car and looking at the location of various items I noticed two rubber hoses, drivers side, near the turbo (viewed from laying on your back, feet sticking out the front of car). They attach to the metal water pipe running at the back of the engine. They are about 5-7 inches long. Are they factory specific or just plain heater hose? I called FCP and they didn't have a listing. They aren't the heater hoses coming out of the fire wall.

i'm not too sure about this. hopefully someone else can answer.

3. What do you use to clean out the intercooler and associated hoses? Gas, TB cleaner, something else sensor safe?

i recall someone saying that you could use gasoline to clean out the intercooler. i don't know about the hoses though. i'd be inclined to use something else.

4. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor replaced at 70K. Do it again?

naw, you are fine for another 10-15k.

5. How long should the fuel pump run if you turn the car on without starting it? This one seems to run 3-4seconds.

sounds about right to me.

6. When replacing the rotors the Haynes manual says to replace the caliper bolts. Is that necessary?

how much are the bolts? you can probably get 'em for cheap from FCP.

7. ECC fan - When in "Auto" does the fan vary speed according to interior temperature requirements?

yes, when the fan is on auto, it will adjust fan speed.

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I'll give you some of what i did.. some neccessary.. some not. In 3- 4 years I've had the car..

but with higher mileage than yours

front 02 (needed for long)

upper rad hose

lower rad hose (blew)

battery (blew up - wierd)

right and left end links

all brake rotors and pads

front rotors (302's this time) and pads

upper motor mount 2x - 2nd was the better one

1x synthetic tranny flush

right motor mount

power steer pump

repair on steering linkage

leak on rack- 0 ring.. went away after but not right away

CPS sensor

rear o2 sensor.. put sim in.. now works so far

chipped cpu

rims/tires

vac lines

oil separator + kit (didnt need)

intake manifold gasket (again didnt need)

both head light lenses (pitted.. couldnt see at night)

serp belt 2x (preventative)

timing belt (maintenaince)

serp belt tensoner (weird noise when very cold)

cap rotor plugs and wiress

lower pass control arm

temp sensor

thermostat (failed closed - luckily -30 out and drove home

with heater on with windows down)

1 headlight bulb

some console bulbs and tail light bulb

signal stock (lent car out got it back broken)

1 rear deck speaker (Darn magnet)

A/C recharge 2x

No particular order and somethings missed... but this is 3 years or so after double mileage of what your purchased... RMS was done before i bought it.

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Those two hoses are the coolant hoses to the turbocharger. I bought the larger one from FCPGroton but had to get the smaller one from the Volvo dealer. I think I got the part number either out of a post here or Bay 13. That smaller one is a real PITA to change. I had to take the steel line off the turbo to get mine off. You can't get to the clamps the way it comes from the factory.

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1) I replaced both O2 sensors at 100k, but no trouble codes. I did notice slightly faster response from the sensors, but not worth the bother, in my opinion.

2) 87°C stat on the turbo engine. The plastic tank is not an overflow tank, it is a pressure tank.

3) Why bother? I'd be conderned about a harsh solvent damaging the hose linings.

4) I've been doing plugs @ 15k, rotor & cap @ 30, wires @ 60 k, but that's likely twice as often as needed. Use copper plugs...Bosch or Denso.

6) I've read that about the caliper mounting bolts, and never changed mine. I like Zimmerman rotors, PBR Deluxe front pads and Mintex rear pads (Mintex Red fronts are dusty, PBR rears squealed worse than others). Don't forget to flush and renew the brake fluid...DOT4+ or DOT5.1 (same thing). I use ATE blue one time and ATE amber the next time, every two years.

7) Yep.

I like Auto-Rx for cleaning the transmission 1000 miles before the flush. If the fluid now looks brown, drain and refill, then do the cleaning. I installed a 5/16" inline transmission filter, WIX, Magnefine, or SPX Filtran. I prefer a synthetic ATF and longer flush intervals. After an Auto-Rx cleaning of the power steering, I installed a 3/8" inline filter and syn ATF.

Ken

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Those two hoses are the coolant hoses to the turbocharger. I bought the larger one from FCPGroton but had to get the smaller one from the Volvo dealer. I think I got the part number either out of a post here or Bay 13. That smaller one is a real PITA to change. I had to take the steel line off the turbo to get mine off. You can't get to the clamps the way it comes from the factory.

Thanks for the info. Will be calling the dealer later to check it out. I will probably have to pull the line off mine also. Can see the hose clamps, just turned to the inside.

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1) I replaced both O2 sensors at 100k, but no trouble codes. I did notice slightly faster response from the sensors, but not worth the bother, in my opinion.

2) 87°C stat on the turbo engine. The plastic tank is not an overflow tank, it is a pressure tank.

3) Why bother? I'd be conderned about a harsh solvent damaging the hose linings.

4) I've been doing plugs @ 15k, rotor & cap @ 30, wires @ 60 k, but that's likely twice as often as needed. Use copper plugs...Bosch or Denso.

6) I've read that about the caliper mounting bolts, and never changed mine. I like Zimmerman rotors, PBR Deluxe front pads and Mintex rear pads (Mintex Red fronts are dusty, PBR rears squealed worse than others). Don't forget to flush and renew the brake fluid...DOT4+ or DOT5.1 (same thing). I use ATE blue one time and ATE amber the next time, every two years.

7) Yep.

I like Auto-Rx for cleaning the transmission 1000 miles before the flush. If the fluid now looks brown, drain and refill, then do the cleaning. I installed a 5/16" inline transmission filter, WIX, Magnefine, or SPX Filtran. I prefer a synthetic ATF and longer flush intervals. After an Auto-Rx cleaning of the power steering, I installed a 3/8" inline filter and syn ATF.

Ken

Thanks Ken,

1. No codes stored. If nothing shows before 100K I'll wait and do them then .

2. Just put in the 87C stat. Also new pressure tank. Hate to have it crack due to age.

3. Ok.

4. Picked up some Bosch copper's and will do them this week. 18K on the last set. Pulled cap, was pretty clean as far as any buildup on the contacts.

6. OK

7. Never had a car with automatic temp control before so wanted to know.

Will look at picking up some of the Auto-RX.

Thanks again

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