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Basic Sound System Installation In P1 S70


Bing_0

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Hi guys,

Today I did a basic sound system installation in a 98 s70 for someone on this forum.

What i call basic means no custom fabrication, no kicks, just headunit, amp, front speaker swap, and sub in a box.

I took some pics to demonstrate some tips and techniques that you should follow to ensure that a basic system such as this, will be done safely and maximizes the potential for sound quality.

lets get started...

First lets talk about front speaker. Unlike 850s, the s70 allows for a 6.5" speaker to be fitted upfront, no realiztically, this is an oversized 6.75" euro size. Once you take the door panel off, you will see the stock speaker in its frame pod. Remove this whole assembly, click off the mounting clips on the back securing the speaker to the frame, and separate and remove the stock speaker. now you can mount the frame baffle back into the car and secure the new speaker.

The speaker of choice for this installation is a DEI studio series 6.5" component set. IN the following pics, you will see that I also located the crossover for the component set in the door. THe location i chose will require removeing some foam padding from the plastic door panel, buts its safe and secure.

tips on door speaker installation:

1. dampen and seal the new spedkaer to the door. I have applied 2 layers of peal and seal in this case, but any dampening will do. the goal is to reinforce hte flimsy stock frame baffle whcih is prone to rattle, and to give the speaker an enclosure to produce better midbass. Of Course, you can ever approach the midbass offered in a kick panel norn the imaging, but doing this will maximize the output and sound quality of hte speaker.

2. when running speaker wires int he door, always neatly bundle the wires, dont leave extra wires hanging or loose, you neve rknow what will get caught on waht.

3. since running spekaer wires into volvo doors is a pain, here is how I did it. Behind the radio, I found the output wires going to the front left channel by lining up with the metra harness. in this case it was a set of green wires, i then found this set of green wires same color coded, plugged into the stock speaker. I simply extended these wires over to the crossover module, and then extended the other end of these wires all the way back to the amp. Simple and it works :) I also disconnected the dash tweet becuase having it connceted will simply cause more distortion at high volumes and ear piercing highs. Of course, if you are installing a Coaxial, you wont need to even run any more wires to any crossovers. :)

I have seen a lot of installs involving door speakres, where hte installer didnt take any of the first two precautions, and i am not talking about best buy or circuit city. I personally will do this regardless if its a multithousand dollar sq install, or a simple straight up speaker swap, its just worth it, espeically on an s70, where hte stock mounting solution is flimsy and completely open air.

s701.jpg

s702.jpg

now, next area i want to touch on is installing hte battery cable at the battery terminal. You dont need fancy terminals or connectors to get the job done, the import things to remeber are:

1. choose a secure bolt or screw to tap the terminal into.

2. have the main fuse as close to the battery termainl as possible, within 14 inches is what i do.

3. make sure hte fuse is properly secured to something so its not flapping around. in this case, its high strength taped to the battery and also wires wiretied down.

4. ALWAYS ALWAYS use split loom to cover all the cables in the engine compartment. Wires are susceptible to high heat and doing this iwll minimize the hcance of any melting wires.

5. always make usre you are not routing the wires onto any part of the exhuast or the engine itself. the loomed wire can handle the heat in the engine compartment unless its in direct contact or within an inch or so of a very hot component.

s703.jpg

next up is the amp, and here are my suggestions:

1. always make sure hte amp is moutned securely to something. an amp thats not bolted down, though sometimes even appears to be snug, will vibrate, flop around during normal driving, whcih increasesthe chance of something coming loose or breaking inside. also, in the event of an accident, a flying amp is definitely a hazzard. in this case, its solidly secured to the back of hte seat.

2. try to mount the amp in a well ventilated area, dont stuff it behind panels, leave at least a few inches above the headsink so the amp can dissipate heat. of coures, many of todays high qualit amps can go through a lot of heat and ever shut down, or not get warm at all, but just on general principle, if you are installing an amp, try not to snuff it :)

3. always, always use terminals when securing the wires to the amp, if the amp has a open screw type of connection. some amps have a boxed connection that is designed for bare wire, but if you dont have this type of amplifier, use connectors. it makes things neat, minimizes the chances of a stray strand of wire shorting, and decreases the chance of a wire coming loose.

4. always cut wires to the apropriate lengths and neatly organize them. not only is this better looking, but it decarease the chance of loose wire catching something and deifneyl will help when you need to disconnect hte amp to trace a problem. in this case, all the wires are bundled, wire tied, and neatly tucked below the carpet.

s704.jpg

next ont he menu is the sub box.

1. i canot stress this enough, always secure the subbox! in some cases, very thick bungee cords will be fine, but i always like to use L brackets. This will prevent hte box from sliding around in a turn and pulling any wires out. and, in the event of an accident, you dont have a 30-40lb flying projectile traveling at 60mph, even if it doesnt hit any people, it iwll do quite a number on any body panel it comes in contact with and may end up costing you another panel that wouldnt be otherwise damaged in the collision. Yet another benefit is that it make the box harder to steal, whcih may save your sub during a break in. in this case, i used two metal L brackets, four screws apiece into the box, and two screws into the floor. you cansee one of htem towards the back on the side of hte box, the other one is on the front opposite corner.

s705.jpg

s706.jpg

the last thing i want to touch on is the rear deck. Most of you guys know that i hate rear deck separkes for a variety of reason, and always prefer to remove them. in this case, it shte same. and my tips are:

1. most car's rear decks are prone to rattling becuiase they are simply not very thick. the s70 is no different. Always dampen the rear deck. In this case, i applied 3 layers of peal and seal to eh most imporant areas and it helps a lot.

2. remember not to cover any mounting clip holes when dampening.

s707.jpg

well, thats it :) the othe parts about running wires and headunit install have been covered before, so i wont go into them.

As for how this all sounds, I will wait for hte owner to post that once he takes delivery of the car :)

questions and comments welcome.

b

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Bing installed this 'basic' system in my ride today. I now enjoy driving much more, and can't wait to get up this morning and shuttle down to work. Basically this other thread describes how I feel....otherdudessystem

I'm a total novice about sound systems, all I know is that on certain atmospheric tracks, I feel I am immersed in the song with this setup. I also know that the system was installed beautifully and with care.

Thanks Bing, I'll be hitting you up with my video setup soon.

sorry for the crappy writing, I haven't slept in a while:)

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