gr8gatzby Posted November 23, 2005 Report Share Posted November 23, 2005 went to wally world tonight for some oil and although they had 5qt containers of 5w30, they were out of the singles, and i did not want to buy 2 5's. i noticed for the first time 15w50(full syn as well) on the shelf, and though it was 25% more costly than the 5w30, i could at least get the 6qt's needed with (1)5qt and 1(1)qt. so i got em. is this a good idea? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the underlørd Posted November 23, 2005 Report Share Posted November 23, 2005 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
javadoc Posted November 23, 2005 Report Share Posted November 23, 2005 Can I please have some of what you're smoking? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhiteT5 Posted November 23, 2005 Report Share Posted November 23, 2005 Uhhh yeah, take it back, that's waaayyy too high viscosity, especially with winter knocking at the door. Hell, that's too high for summer use if you ask me. If you want Mobil 1, get the fully synthetic 5W-40 Truck & SUV formula from Wally World. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orange850t Posted November 23, 2005 Report Share Posted November 23, 2005 I use it in my car in the summer. I can report no problems to all of the naysayers. However the last change was 5w30 for the winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr8gatzby Posted November 23, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2005 Uhhh yeah, take it back, that's waaayyy too high viscosity, especially with winter knocking at the door. Hell, that's too high for summer use if you ask me. If you want Mobil 1, get the fully synthetic 5W-40 Truck & SUV formula from Wally World.curious, what in hades makes any kind of oil "Truck & SUV"? it's the same as any other 5w40 no? more marketing gimmicks me thinks... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr8gatzby Posted November 23, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2005 been reading up at bob is the oil guy and i think i'm going to auto rx my ride, and take that oil back for some 5w30.regarding the auto rx, correct me if i'm wrong....1st:change oil to dino and add rx treatment, 2nd: run for 1500mi, 3rd: change oil again with dino and run for another 1500mi; 4th: put full syn back in.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beachnut Posted November 23, 2005 Report Share Posted November 23, 2005 been reading up at bob is the oil guy and i think i'm going to auto rx my ride, and take that oil back for some 5w30.regarding the auto rx, correct me if i'm wrong....1st:change oil to dino and add rx treatment, 2nd: run for 1500mi, 3rd: change oil again with dino and run for another 1500mi; 4th: put full syn back in....http://auto-rx.com/pages/applications.htmI just ordered mine :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr8gatzby Posted November 23, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2005 http://auto-rx.com/pages/applications.htmI just ordered mine same here :pizza: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beachnut Posted November 23, 2005 Report Share Posted November 23, 2005 Now the question is will you go back to Mobil 1? The Auto-RX people don't seem to recommend it if you plan on using their ongoing maintenance program. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr8gatzby Posted November 23, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2005 Now the question is will you go back to Mobil 1? The Auto-RX people don't seem to recommend it if you plan on using their ongoing maintenance program.i read through the FAQ's at the auto-rx site and i translated it as such:1)Full synthetic is fine, but the fossil fuels in plain dino are better with the auto-rx treatment, and more fully exploit the additive potential.2)use dino for the post 1500mi oil change as well4)after another 1500mi of plain dino, sans additive, switch back to synthetic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beachnut Posted November 23, 2005 Report Share Posted November 23, 2005 Yeah, I agree with everything you said ... but nowhere do I see them endorsing synthetic or overtly saying "switch back to synthetic" when you're finished with the treatment (although I probably will). Basically they say "use whatever you want, but ...." . I get the feeling they're not very pro-synthetic.Q: I've heard that synthetic oil can adversely affect my seals. Does Auto-Rx® help?A: We believe that high-mileage engines that use synthetic/semi-synthetic or high mileage oil weaken the seal material and it loses its pliability. You can use any oil you want after the leak is stopped. In e-mails to people who have rear main oil seal leaks and want to use Auto-Rx® to try and stop them, we tell them to use non-synthetic oil to firm up the seal material after Auto-Rx® has cleansed it, as chemistry in non-synthetic oil makes seals harden just right to effect a tight seal. I question why anyone would want to go back to a chemistry that will start the process of seal material degradation all over again. A way around this problem is to use 3 ounces of Auto-Rx® with each oil change after a rear main seal leak is stopped. Now you are protecting seal degradation and can use synthetic, semi-synthetic, or high mileage oil without creating a new leak problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr8gatzby Posted November 23, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2005 they are definitely on the fence with using full synthetic in high mileage engines that experiece rear main seal leaks... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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