5 1/4 Comps

[CaughtLikeFire]

Well, picked up a set of last year's Infinity Reference components (5 1/4) for $90. Little bit cheaper than the 2005's on Ebay and they're basically the same speakers AFAIK.

Anyways, I'm debating whether its worth installing them using the stock R amp (40W) or just return them. They're rated at 75W RMS so they could use some more juice I guess.

I also picked up the 5 1/4" Reference coaxials for $34 (def keeping them) so I could use those up front instead. They're 45W RMS speakers so I could power them a little more adequately.

Any opinions? Worth going with comps?

If it matters, current plans are to remove the rear deck speakers and add a Basslink II to the trunk.

No super Image Dynamics system this time around - just need a nice basic setup.

[mikeR]

I just did this with the 2005 reference 5.25 comps. It was alot of work because i used the stock amp and wired the crossovers down near the radio and used the stock wiring to the doors and tweets. the mids dropped right in using 2 of the 4 screws, while the tweeters need a piece of sheetmetal to mount to in the stock location. My stock parts were in good condition, and i barely noticed a difference when i had one side stock and the other infinity. I went back and forth between them, and i was disappointed how tough to tell the diff was. I honestly most likely wouldnt do it again for the $140 set and 6ish hours to install.

[93 850]

The rated RMS of a speaker does not mean that you have to match it with an amp (in this case of 75 watts). This number just means that you don't want to drive the speaker with over 75 watts for any length of time. Driving it with 40 rms should be just fine. The number to look at when matching an amp to a speaker is really the speaker efficiency, lower effieciency speakers require more power to drive them.

[CaughtLikeFire]

I just did this with the 2005 reference 5.25 comps. It was alot of work because i used the stock amp and wired the crossovers down near the radio and used the stock wiring to the doors and tweets. the mids dropped right in using 2 of the 4 screws, while the tweeters need a piece of sheetmetal to mount to in the stock location. My stock parts were in good condition, and i barely noticed a difference when i had one side stock and the other infinity. I went back and forth between them, and i was disappointed how tough to tell the diff was. I honestly most likely wouldnt do it again for the $140 set and 6ish hours to install.

hmm . . . good reason to take the comps back and put the $90 towards the Basslink.

I can try swapping the Boston's with the Infinity's and see which is better up front and leave it at that.

How was the clarity at high volume? I hate how underpowered speakers start sounding so "thin." Did you lose a lot of volume compared to stock?

The rated RMS of a speaker does not mean that you have to match it with an amp (in this case of 75 watts). This number just means that you don't want to drive the speaker with over 75 watts for any length of time. Driving it with 40 rms should be just fine. The number to look at when matching an amp to a speaker is really the speaker efficiency, lower effieciency speakers require more power to drive them.

you're right, I just wish efficiency ratings were standardized. Its usually a crapshoot. Remember when Infinity rated their Kappa Perfect subs at 94db sensitivity? Even their current Kappa line is not nearly as sensitive/efficient as they make it out to be.

I guess I'm also worried b/c I doubt the 40 watt rating is conservative - its probably less than 40 in practice. I have an old PPI lying around that puts out ~60 RMS x2 and sounds amazing, I just hate to take up more space with the install.

dang . . .