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How Many Watts Do I Need?


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Well, i know very little about car audio, but wanted to buy some stuff before my discount at Best Buy expired so i got a 300 watt 10" MTX sub and a 600 watt amp that will do 300watts at 4ohms and one channel.

That's too much power right. I'm not looking to blow out windows, just some nice deep sound in the back - for me only, not my city block.

What would be a better amp (wattage wise)? I need to find out quick so i can return the beast and pick up the lil' one before the system knows i've been laid off!

Thanks

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21 gigawatts!

By the time you tune it to sound acceptably pleasant and somewhat musical (spectral balance) and unless you have 200+ watts going the mids/tweets, you'll never have the gains to a level where more than 300watts are going to that woofer. If you listen to Magic Mike or the SPL drag burp track, then I would get worried.

Edit: I have always like the sound and linearity of "over-powering" with amps and adjusting gains down. For some reason it sounds warmer. Keep your amp.

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pretty much what jeremy said.

i hold that it is no neccesary to have a lot of wattage if you choose the equipment correctly and install correctly to get good sound qualiyt.

but more than enough wattage is never really bad, unless you have say a 1000 watt amp on a tweeter in whcih case i think you just watsted money, but it doesn mean you cannot put a 1000 watt amp on a tweeter.

adjust the gains and you will be fine, like jeremy said, when your amp is capable of putting more power down at any given moment becuase it has reserves, thats called dynamic headroom, and it does indeed sound more open and alive.

so basiclaly, go for it, more power is not a bad thing :)

b

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I wish it was like back in the day when you could pick your amp based on dBW instead of watts. The companies figured out that people want to say, "I have x amount of wattage and that means I have x amount more power than you!" It's not really true, but it sure brings the sales in. :monkey:

Only about 1.5 watts of power is going to reproduced by your sub, even if you gave it 300 watts from the amp. It may even be less, depending on the efficiancy of the sub and the actual power leaving the amp. All the rest of that power just turns to heat at the voice coil, believe it or not.

To me, voltage and impedence are more important than how much input wattage the sub gets rated for.

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You'll be fine with the amp you have, just don't push the speaker beyond what it's physically capable of doing and you won't have any issues.

I know, bad, government style answer. :D

Basically, I wouldn't worry about it. Follow the advice Jeremy and Bing gave, since I agree with them on this.

PS, about that lightning rod idea, I have an 8,000 watt amp in my 240 that I'm trying to sell if you're interested... :)

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I agree with everything that has been posted so far. Just check that your numbers are RMS and not peak because a 300 watt PEAK sub getting 300 watts RMS from your amp...means that your gain will have to be extremely low...and at that point it's kinda a waste.

Which amp did you get? Is it two channel or one channel?

About what Bing and Pat said about having extra power, I run my 10" Alpine Type-R (600RMS, if i recall) with a 1000watt RMS Hifonics amp, sounds great!

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My concern was that i spent to much on a amp that would be wasted power on one 10" that isn't going to be that loud.

I get it that more power is better, and i'll keep the amp!

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cap_kit_product.jpg

Although a capacitor WORKS it does not alleviate the problem, which is a lack of electrical power. The way to really address this issue is to add a high-output alternator and probably another battery. However, if you don't foresee the system growing to gargantuan sizes any time soon a cap is definitely a good idea.

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