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S60 D5 Ecu Upgrade


Guest samjam

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HI

IVE HAD MY S60 D5'S ECU UPGRADED TO GIVE OUT 210 BHP AND 475 nm OF TORQUE (350 ft/lb)

THE PROBLEM I HAVE NOW IS THAT IN 4th AND 5th GEAR UNDER HEAVY THROTTLE THE DRIVESHAFT VIBRATES AT 2000 rpm FOR AROUND 400 rpm. THIS DOESNT HAPPEN UNDER NORMAL DRIVING. IVE BEEN ASSURED BY THE COMPANY WHO DOES IT THAT THE DRIVESHAFT WOULD BE OK (THE OWNER HAVING THE SAME UPGRADE ON HIS S60 D5). HE SAYS HE DRIVES AROUND THE VIBRATION.

ANYONE OUT THERE WITH ANY COMMENTS, WOULD APPRECIATE SOME FEEDBACK

CHEERS :)

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while giving you more ponies, the chip upgrade appears to have broken j00r caps lock key.

i'm no expert, but me thinks 350ft.lb. on a driveshaft designed for 60% of that might be your problem.

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I remember some VW's used to come with these rubber donuts on the driveshafts...my only guess was that it was used to reduce vibration. WHen I had my GLi the previous owner had already replaced the driveshafts and they did not have the rubber donuts on 'em, but I also did not notice vibration without them on...then again, I never had them on so it could have been smoother even....

anyone know of these things?

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HI

IVE HAD MY S60 D5'S ECU UPGRADED TO GIVE OUT 210 BHP AND 475 nm OF TORQUE (350 ft/lb)

THE PROBLEM I HAVE NOW IS THAT IN 4th AND 5th GEAR UNDER HEAVY THROTTLE THE DRIVESHAFT VIBRATES AT 2000 rpm FOR AROUND 400 rpm. THIS DOESNT HAPPEN UNDER NORMAL DRIVING. IVE BEEN ASSURED BY THE COMPANY WHO DOES IT THAT THE DRIVESHAFT WOULD BE OK (THE OWNER HAVING THE SAME UPGRADE ON HIS S60 D5). HE SAYS HE DRIVES AROUND THE VIBRATION.

ANYONE OUT THERE WITH ANY COMMENTS, WOULD APPRECIATE SOME FEEDBACK

CHEERS :)

Hi.

Sorry to hear about the problems you're having. Did you have this vibration prior to the ECU upgrade? If you didn't and the the owner of the company who did the ECU upgrade for you is having the same problem with his car, then I think you've found the source of the problem. I think you now need to ask yourself if its worth taking the risk.

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I have to say that I have heard of Volvo collating numerous problems with D5's that have been chipped during their warranty period but this is the first instance of a drive train problem.

Can you specifically say which shaft is vibrating, the longer one or the short?

Either way I would have thought it an absolute certainty that you will get a breakage sooner rather than later.

Regards, Don.Norchi.

www.kalmar-union.com

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HI

IVE HAD MY S60 D5'S ECU UPGRADED TO GIVE OUT 210 BHP AND 475 nm OF TORQUE (350 ft/lb)

THE PROBLEM I HAVE NOW IS THAT IN 4th AND 5th GEAR UNDER HEAVY THROTTLE THE DRIVESHAFT VIBRATES AT 2000 rpm FOR AROUND 400 rpm. THIS DOESNT HAPPEN UNDER NORMAL DRIVING. IVE BEEN ASSURED BY THE COMPANY WHO DOES IT THAT THE DRIVESHAFT WOULD BE OK (THE OWNER HAVING THE SAME UPGRADE ON HIS S60 D5). HE SAYS HE DRIVES AROUND THE VIBRATION.

ANYONE OUT THERE WITH ANY COMMENTS, WOULD APPRECIATE SOME FEEDBACK

CHEERS :)

I take it you're talking about Adam @ Volvo Tuning UK in Bromsgrove B)

How about going back to the standard RICA 200bhp map for the D5? Does it happen then?

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I remember some VW's used to come with these rubber donuts on the driveshafts...my only guess was that it was used to reduce vibration. WHen I had my GLi the previous owner had already replaced the driveshafts and they did not have the rubber donuts on 'em, but I also did not notice vibration without them on...then again, I never had them on so it could have been smoother even....

anyone know of these things?

Vaguely, something possibly on a type 2. Much more with Lancia, Alfa, and Mercedes all used them back in the ahem .. 50's, 60's, and 70's. on rear wheel drives. The idea was to reduce noise and vibration from the more common universal joint which grows longer and shorter through different arc moments.

In the case of Lancia V-6 they had a rear transaxle complete with clutch so the drive shaft was always turning at engine RPM. DeDion rear suspension and Cardan Blocks on the inboard and outboard axles. These were early versions of what we know today as CV joints which don't have the problems of U-joints or the donuts. There were 2-3 other designs in there that used flat disk, segmented star, eleptical shape that were brought over from eletric motors The UK missed these for Harvey Spicer had most of the market tied up before switching to CV joints.

...................................

I'd really like to see a reliable source plotting that HP vs Torque rather than someone just posting my xyz does this for I've never seen that ratio even on turbo diesels.

Cheers,

GTM2U

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HI

...

PROBLEM I HAVE NOW IS THAT IN 4th AND 5th GEAR UNDER HEAVY THROTTLE THE DRIVESHAFT VIBRATES AT 2000 rpm FOR AROUND 400 rpm.

...

ANYONE OUT THERE WITH ANY COMMENTS, WOULD APPRECIATE SOME FEEDBACK

CHEERS :)

I don't do mods because they always have some problem attached that you end up marrying that cost more than they are worth. Or all too often some perceived problem that didn't exist or some figment of their imigination because they spent the money you now own every problem for the next 10 years.

That aside, two or three things just came to mind. If the driveshaft has 2 U-joints then they _must_ be phased so as the shaft is deflected the inherant problem of the shaft getting longer or shorter is at a minimum. In essence If memory serves the yoke of one U-joint _must_ be 90 degrees to the yoke of the other.

Driveshafts have balance weights welded to them so it could be these were "tuned" to/against each other to reduce sympathetic harmonics which would exaggerate driveshaft whip. I should note that these problems are found more often on larger cars where lengths and mass increase the forces involved.

Lastly, engine, transmission, and/or driveshaft mounts are too soft for the power being generated and allowing more deflection that is causing the problem.

Cheers,

GTM2U

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Vaguely, something possibly on a type 2. Much more with Lancia, Alfa, and Mercedes all used them back in the ahem .. 50's, 60's, and 70's. on rear wheel drives. The idea was to reduce noise and vibration from the more common universal joint which grows longer and shorter through different arc moments.

Robert Bentley publications

Volkswagen GTi, Golf, Jetta (including 16V) 1985-1992

A2/MKII

Section 11

Page 19

Removing and Installing Drive Axle Vibration Damper:

"On some models, a vibration damper is installed on the right (passenger-side) drive axle to help reduce vibration. No maintenance is required. Its installation is shown in Fig. 5-24 (pag 19, sec 11)"

Althought it may still be dated technology, I was just thinking if the diesels use these things given their amount of torque output, and then with a chip, even more torque.

I also remember, while being into VW's back in the day, that there were a couple of companies manufacturing really high quality, precision balanced CV axles with guaranteed strengths and boots for heavy duty applications...maybe look into those, but I do remember them being very, very pricey...just a thought. Hope you get the vibration thing worked out.

:)

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Guest Guest_SAMJAM_*

I take it you're talking about Adam @ Volvo Tuning UK in Bromsgrove B)

How about going back to the standard RICA 200bhp map for the D5? Does it happen then?

Yeh, Adam sent the software to the garage in Preston where I got the upgrade done. It wasnt actually Adam doing the work but I have spoke to him on the phone about the problem.

It doesnt do it on th 198 bhp upgrade but the difference in performance is much more - believe it or not.

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Guest Guest_SAMJAM_*

Hi.

Sorry to hear about the problems you're having. Did you have this vibration prior to the ECU upgrade? If you didn't and the the owner of the company who did the ECU upgrade for you is having the same problem with his car, then I think you've found the source of the problem. I think you now need to ask yourself if its worth taking the risk.

Yeh

Im seriously thinking of going back to the stage one conversion as there is no vibration at that power

CHEERS

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Yeh

Im seriously thinking of going back to the stage one conversion as there is no vibration at that power

CHEERS

Adam here! (logged in as guest)

I can reduce that torque below 2500 rpm to get rid of the problem, while still retaining the top end performance after 2500 rpm. Problem will be solved then!

Adam.

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