USMC850T Posted February 9, 2006 Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 Ok so I'm gonna look over my rubber charge air hoses tomorrow. Aside from these, where could I be loosing 5 psi from. When the car was stock, it would hit 9.6 as advertised. The things I have thought of which could cause it are:wastegate setting?intercooler leak?? (probably less probable than the others (possibly not even possible??))I don't understand why it would hold 9.6 fine, but steady at 12 and not reach 17. It would probably be a real small hole if it's not bleeding down real low.Oh the chip is speedtuning by the way (save the remarks, I bought it for reasons other than simply making more power).thanks in advance for help,jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToxicLemonade Posted February 9, 2006 Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 check your intercooler pipes. also check all your lines, i would say stage 0 is the culprit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the underlørd Posted February 9, 2006 Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 check your intercooler pipes. also check all your lines, i would say stage 0 is the culprit.Let's claify a bit.what Stage 0 have you done to the car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHEIII874T5M Posted February 9, 2006 Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 Samco Turbo Hoses... now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George @ ViVA Posted February 9, 2006 Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 Samco Turbo Hoses...are in stock (red, blue, and black) :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregg Posted February 9, 2006 Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 1) check all your turbo hose clamps - make sure they are tight2) check for any cracks/tears in the hoses3) check all your vacuum hoses and make sure they are good4) spark plugs - check type, gap, condition5) 93+ gasoline Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHEIII874T5M Posted February 9, 2006 Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 If you're not interested in the T with the BOV kit... this place has great pricing.http://www.9secondracing.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi?kws=volvo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAzOR Posted February 9, 2006 Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 Make sure you don't have any non-CEL codes in the ECU. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JCviggen Posted February 9, 2006 Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 Wastegate too soft is a good bet if you're holding a pretty steady 12. I say tighten it 2 full turns and see what it does. Its an easy place to start, and it allows you to draw a few conclusions after observing the result Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USMC850T Posted February 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 Stage 0:Pulled all the rubber charge air connectors off and visually inspected them, no cracks holes or problems.Cleaned out all charge air lines.Cleaned throttle body.New plugs i believe .028" gapNew spark linesneeded new batteryI don't think my problem is related to the charge air lines, as they would likely only be able to sustain a much lower pressure.I will check the wastegate setting tomorrow. Whats the best way to get to it, and which way should I adjust it?Oh yeah beyond stage 0 I have full 2.5" exhaust minus downpipe and a cone filter setup. Likely going to fabricate my own FMIC and piping setup this summer to counter the reduced efficiency from running a 15G at 2.1PR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USMC850T Posted February 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 Oh yeah once my car is warm i pull 20" hg no prob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JESSEXC Posted February 9, 2006 Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 Did you check this one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USMC850T Posted February 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 Noted. Is that right next to the throttle body? I see the snorkel and the fan so I will assume so. Ok but where do I go to make the wastegate adjustment, top or bottom, and which way to turn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregg Posted February 9, 2006 Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 Ok but where do I go to make the wastegate adjustment, top or bottom, and which way to turn.you have to remove the heatshield for the turbo (if not already done). once the heatshield is removed, you'll see the wastegate actuator arm. Remove the cotter pin. Chances are, the "nut" on the end of the actuator arm will be rusted in place - get some PBlaster and give it a good soaking. I used a set of vice grips to hold the actuator arm stationary, and i think it was 10mm open end wrench to turn the nut. You have to make sure that only the nut turns and not the entire actuator arm, otherwise the w/g diaphragm can be damaged.Once you loosen the nut, you might be able to turn the piece (with the hole in it) at the tip of the actuator rod. If that piece still doesn't turn, use the vice grips once again to hold the arm stationary and use a pair of pliers to rotate the piece on the end. Just work with it, and be careful not to bend the actuator arm, or have it spin in place.Once everything moves freely, tighten the nut down the actuator arm a few turns, then turn the piece at the end clockwise (if standing on the passenger side of the car) two complete turns (ultimately shortening the length of the actuator arm). Move the nut back so it is right against the piece at the end. Now gently pull on the end of the actuator arm and slip the piece over the small "post" on the turbo. Replace the cotter pin. Leave the heatshield off. And you're done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JESSEXC Posted February 9, 2006 Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 Noted. Is that right next to the throttle body? I see the snorkel and the fan so I will assume so.YES Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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