Guest Johnny T5 Posted February 13, 2006 Report Share Posted February 13, 2006 when your 17 psi tunrs into 15 then 14 then 13 then 12.can you clerify what's that mean? Damages, side effects from over boosting/ incorrect boosting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoustonT5-R Posted February 13, 2006 Report Share Posted February 13, 2006 can you clerify what's that mean? Damages, side effects from over boosting/ incorrect boosting?I believe he's refering to a hole in a hose gradually getting larger over time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS7 Posted February 13, 2006 Report Share Posted February 13, 2006 I believe he's refering to a hole in a hose gradually getting larger over time.I did adjust my rod 3 turns boosting 16 psi stock ECU + 3" JT race no cat / raced modded S4 with "APR's sticker - with boost down to 13 psi I was loosing a little ground over 90 mph / . Recently after 10 min my max boost is down to 8-9 psi . everyday is the same / today 18F very fast but later sloooooowwww. /I asked Johann about my boost issues :"From: Johann To: RS7 Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2006 6:51 pm Subject: Re: Boost issues ? Could be a leak near the throttle body at the Y split for the idle valve. Could be a leak anywhere between turbo and throttle. also the colder the weather the lower the boost because the boost is only a reasult of air mass and speed going through the MAF. Lower temps means higher density air._________________Swede Demon pilot.. " :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Johnny T5 Posted February 14, 2006 Report Share Posted February 14, 2006 Soo, if there's no leaks this tweak shouldn't be any problem? Can we do this tweak on a stock ECU? How much boost can we safely rise for a stock ECU? Anything to worry about? will this mean run out of air sooner a high end..??I'm running 15psi by bleeding the vacuum hose to the actuator. Have a 2.5 downpipe, no cat & EST RIP... Should I worry about anything? How is this different from adjusting the actuator arm?..Sorry for soo many question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USMC850T Posted February 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2006 Soo, if there's no leaks this tweak shouldn't be any problem? Can we do this tweak on a stock ECU? How much boost can we safely rise for a stock ECU? Anything to worry about? will this mean run out of air sooner a high end..??I'm running 15psi by bleeding the vacuum hose to the actuator. Have a 2.5 downpipe, no cat & EST RIP... Should I worry about anything? How is this different from adjusting the actuator arm?..Sorry for soo many question.You're essentially doing the same thing by tricking the wastegate actuator. Be careful on the stock ECU, you may wind up running way lean! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Johnny T5 Posted February 14, 2006 Report Share Posted February 14, 2006 Will install A/F ratio gauge sometime this week. Just to monitor & keep safe... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VolvoWill Posted February 14, 2006 Report Share Posted February 14, 2006 These leaks that you are talking about are intercooler hose leaks correct? I have Samcos and I installed my MBC and the boost went down so today I was planning on taking of the heatsheild and inspecting the Wastgate arm. Hopefully this is the culprit. I have a good feeling that this is the case because when my car was stock my boost would always spike to 1.3 bar and then drop and chill around .8 bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USMC850T Posted February 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2006 Negative, there were no leaks to speak of. I did just accidentally break the nipple off my intake hose today (where the blue hose connects). OOOPS! Got a new one on order so no high boosting right now for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeachRat Posted February 14, 2006 Report Share Posted February 14, 2006 ok so today I went on a test run with my friend in the passenger seat watching the boost guage. I lock it in 1st with winter mode and gently accelerate up a hill, boosting to about 6-7. Shift into 2nd and go to about 1/2 throttle then hammer it, the car blasts off accellerating real real hard then goes BAM and almost stalls. I immediately turn it off and coast to a stop. We get out and of course it's dark and we cant figure out whats wrong so i start it up and limp coughing and sputtering a mile back to my house. We get it into my garage and figure out that I blew the charge air line clean off the throttle body. We put it back on and clamp the stuff out of it. Turn it back on, idles real rough but it smooths out and I let it run for about 5 minutes before we go out again. Drove it around gentle until i got the balls to try again, so we go at it. Slow roll on in 2nd, holding 16psi then hits 17 and BAM. Again!!I did the exact same thing. Was trying to dial in MBC (again with 17PSI ST chip) and pushed the car up to 19PSI. It blew the air hose clean off the TB and I had the same symptoms. You probably had a CEL too.The rough idle upon restart was from your engine burning off that extra fuel being dumped in and not burned while the air hose was off, due to lack of air.Without upgrading your intercooler hoses, 17PSI is about the max for this setup, in my experience. The stock clamps and hoses just can't handle too much more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VolvoWill Posted February 15, 2006 Report Share Posted February 15, 2006 Can you post those pictures you took while you were adjusting the wastegate USMC? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USMC850T Posted February 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2006 Let the car cool ALOT!!! The turbo gets really poking hot (exhaust gasses pass through the turbine, and the compressor can heat to over 250 degrees Farenheit).Ok first locate your turbo. If you can't find it, close the hood and move on. Pull the tabs on the supports on each side of your hood and raise it straight up so you can gain easy access to the turbo.Lean way over the engine and start taking out the bolts which hold the shield in, 12 mm i think. One of them is spring loaded, and waaay too long.Once the shield is off take the pin off the wastegate actuator arm. The arm should rotate freely. Put the pin in a safe place. Ok now for the actual adjustment.1. Take off the charge air line for easier access.2. Grab the rod connecting to the actuator arm with a set of vice grips or big pliers. IMMOBILIZE it the best you can.3.) Pliers on the flat piece, spin it out a turn or so (COUNT AND REMEMBER).4.) Losen the 10mm nut and spin it towards the compressor side of the turbo (RIGHT to tighten wastegate). Rotate it several turns past where you intend to have the final setting.5.) Now you remember the amount of turns you backed the flat piece out right? Spin it back in (right) that number of times. Ok now you're in the original position. Rotate it in (right) 1 or 2 full turns. Now keep hold of the flat piece while you turn the 10mm nut back to the left to but up against the flat piece. Make it moderately tight (don't go crazy you meatheads out there). 6. Find wherever you left your pin and replace it. Leave the shield off for now.Make sure your charge air line clamps are really tight before you close the hood (dont cut the rubber though)Clear the engine bay of tools.Go out and test (hopefully w/ a boost gauge, otherwise it's not terribly scientific or accurate).Make small adjustment, never drastic changes.Keep in mind most boost leaks / low boost situations are not going to be wastegate actuator related. Search around or ask the right people to find answers, . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoustonT5-R Posted February 15, 2006 Report Share Posted February 15, 2006 Nice quick write-up. As a side note, you don't have to remove the right-rear bolt on the heat shield. Once you get the top bolt out, you can just rotate the bracket out of the way a little bit to get to the bolt below. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VolvoWill Posted February 15, 2006 Report Share Posted February 15, 2006 Interesting. I am going to replace a vacume hose that I have going to the MBC because it is 11 years old and I have replaced all the other ones. If that doesnt solve my boost problem, I am going to try the wastegate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest Posted February 16, 2006 Report Share Posted February 16, 2006 Interesting. I am going to replace a vacume hose that I have going to the MBC because it is 11 years old and I have replaced all the other ones. If that doesnt solve my boost problem, I am going to try the wastegate.go silicon.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.