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blazen244

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I have a Die Hard International battery and the car sometimes sits for maybe a week and a

couple, then I have to keep giving it a hot shot to get going. This happens every winter it's starting to get annoying

Deep cycle batterys should not be used in standard Automotive starting/charging systems. I can go into more detail if you want.

A deep cycle battery wont fix your drained battery problem!

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Deep cycle batterys should not be used in standard Automotive starting/charging systems. I can go into more detail if you want.

A deep cycle battery wont fix your drained battery problem!

OK have any ideas I also have three fosgate amplifiers running to ,but they are not on until the head and processor comes on

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OK have any ideas I also have three fosgate amplifiers running to ,but they are not on until the head and processor comes on

Well its hard to say, not knowing all the details.

Based on your amp situation,

Are you using a stock alternator?

Maybe it cant keep up with your elect draw, and there for when you shut down your battery is already low?

Have you checked for battery draw with everything shut off?

Tim

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Deep cycle batterys should not be used in standard Automotive starting/charging systems. I can go into more detail if you want.

A deep cycle battery wont fix your drained battery problem!

I'd be interested in hearing your theory on this. Deep cycle batteries are used in everything from ambulances to the Tug's that you see on most airport tarmacs.

I've probably seen 100's if not 1,000's of deep cycles used for SLI uses in a "standard" automotive systems, aswell. There are some not meant for SLI use, but beyond that, I've never heard of a good reason to not use them.

Blazen, if I were you, I'd do some poking around with a voltmeter and see what's happening. It's always good to know what exactly is happening before you start trying to solve the issue. It's possible that you're not producing enough power at the alt or perhaps there's some draw happening while the car is off. Maybe your glove box isn't closing right and the little light in there is on 24/7. A voltmeter will help you figure out what's really causing your issue.

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I'd be interested in hearing your theory on this. Deep cycle batteries are used in everything from ambulances to the Tug's that you see on most airport tarmacs.

I've probably seen 100's if not 1,000's of deep cycles used for SLI uses in a "standard" automotive systems, aswell. There are some not meant for SLI use, but beyond that, I've never heard of a good reason to not use them.

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The uses you mentioned are not standard automotive apps.

The semi tech reason is because deep cycle batterys are designed to produce a constant amp draw all the way down to "dead" then be totaly re- charged again. The constant re- charging from an altenator shortens thier life. ( this is not to say they wont work, its just not proper!)

Here is the kicker that applys to modern automotive type engines ( especially ones with a lot of computer type elects)

A standard auto battery is designed to have high initial amps and voltage. After extended cranking it drops off. This "high" initial stuff is needed so that the computers and stuff see the proper voltage.

When you use a deep cycle battery, under crank you see a instant voltage drop that messes with some elects. ( This causes a lot of problems on the new Volvo marine engines with all thier fly by wire stuff.)

Now obviously if you use a big enough deep cycle battery(s) it can work!

The ambulances are using the deep cycle batterys thru a converter to run the medical equip.

If you pop the hood you will prob see a standard battery for the engine.

Cant say about the Tug. :)

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:huh: With the car running it's giving me just around 14 volts I haven't checked the draw yet ,but

I notice after I get it running when the RPM's are low (coming to a stop ) the lights may get low and the back up when the car idles evens out until the battery has charge enough to hold. Now keeping in mind this only happens during the colder months

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:huh: With the car running it's giving me just around 14 volts I haven't checked the draw yet ,but

I notice after I get it running when the RPM's are low (coming to a stop ) the lights may get low and the back up when the car idles evens out until the battery has charge enough to hold. Now keeping in mind this only happens during the colder months

i have the same problem

i'm beginning to suspect that

1. alternator is dying (only after 90k?!)

2. serpentine belt needs replacing?

i REALLY doubt its my battery

my super powerful optima red top shouldn't be causing problems

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i have the same problem

i'm beginning to suspect that

1. alternator is dying (only after 90k?!)

2. serpentine belt needs replacing?

i REALLY doubt its my battery

my super powerful optima red top shouldn't be causing problems

With that optima battery did the stock cables fit or did you mod to make it work

I'll look more into the alternator I do have 127,000 miles on it

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I just installed an Optima Red Top 34R. It has top posts with the + and - terminals switched to match the Volvo layout. The + lead fit no problem at all, however the - lead would not fit. No way, no how. The Optima has a 2 inch set back (because of the spiral cell design) and the - terminal is a solid unbendable chunk of metal that would not reach. A replacement - lead is necessary or you can add an extension. I did the extension temporarily and will remove the battery and tray later and replace the - lead completely.

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