240 Sub + Dvd

[HumblePie]

I'm the proud owner of an '86 Volvo 240 Stationwagon (yay). It's been through a lot , and it's nice car (with a solid 384000k on it). I've installed a Sony Xplod stereo system 52x4 and some speakers in the back (the hatch) of the car. Now I'm looking to add some bass and maybe a dvd player. The subwoofer will probably go in the tirewell , because I don't really feel like having it stolen.

Questions:

-Can my Volvo (everything stock except stereo system) support the subwoofer, a 15" LCD , and an xbox (preferred dvd player of choice).

-If It can't , can it just support the sub

-Which sub solution should I get (my brother is the audiophile and he can't help at all right now)

[NGB]

When you say support, you mean handle the weight, or what?

[Owned]

I'm the proud owner of an '86 Volvo 240 Stationwagon (yay). It's been through a lot , and it's nice car (with a solid 384000k on it). I've installed a Sony Xplod stereo system 52x4 and some speakers in the back (the hatch) of the car. Now I'm looking to add some bass and maybe a dvd player. The subwoofer will probably go in the tirewell , because I don't really feel like having it stolen.

Questions:

-Can my Volvo (everything stock except stereo system) support the subwoofer, a 15" LCD , and an xbox (preferred dvd player of choice).

-If It can't , can it just support the sub

-Which sub solution should I get (my brother is the audiophile and he can't help at all right now)

Check the Voltage coming out of your alt while at idle. If it's strong, go ahead and upgrade the battery. If not, do both the battery and the alt. A deep cycle battery will help you to run the equipment you're looking at. It should be OK on the stock alt (as long as it's putting out good power) as you're probably only looking at a single 10 or 12 that won't draw a huge amount of power (unless you're running everything hard and at once).

As far as your sub and amplifier, it depends greatly on your budget and what you're looking to get out of the system. I'd probably look for something that is relatively efficient (at least 90 dB sensitivty) and run a small mono amp to it if you don't need to power your door speaks. If you do need to power the doors, you could run a 4 chan in addition to the mono, or simply switch to a 5 or 6 chan unit to cover all the bases.

When you say support, you mean handle the weight, or what?

He's (or should be) talking about electrical draw on the car. IE, would the stock electrical system blow up with all this extra stuff being added that it was not originally designed to support.

[HumblePie]

Awesome (yes I was talking about electrical draw). I believe there is a high performance battery in there ATM but I'll check.

I can get a Dr. Crankenstein Sub setup from a reliable source (I'm not going to get scammed, the person really no longer wants it) for a whole 50$ *canadian*. This is a solution I think is easily within my price range. For this price, I really don't mind even if it gets stolen (it might, and I know you don't want people going into your car , because once they're in there....)

Oh the Subs may be the 18" but chances are they are 15" (I've heard them in their original domain (car) and they have a NICCCEEE sound)

[Owned]

Even if it's a "high performance" battery, you're still going to want a deep cycle one. The plates in a standard SLI battery, marked high performance or not, are designed differently than either an SLI deep cycle or just plain deep cycle. Go ahead and take your pick of brands. Personally, I like Optima, but it hasn't always been my favorite.

If you need a source for your 15 inch I'm a Nesa Vision dealer (they have three 15inch models).

http://www.nesavision.com/