Socal Posted March 4, 2006 Report Share Posted March 4, 2006 Yah usual story, car goes in for oil change and you leave finding you've got expensive problems. This 1998 S70 turbo has had more problems in the past 2 months so far than my 99 S70 ever had.Well, the mechanic showed me play (there was about 1-2mm side to side play) in the right front wheel at the 6 and 12 positions, and said that the bearing needed replacing.Other problem, I replaced the battery about 3 weeks ago. The old battery was 6 years old according to a previous owner's paper work, so that seemed reasonable. However, even after installing the new battery I still notice that the instrument panel dimmed when I would turn on the fog lights. I asked the mechanic who did the oil change to check the alternator. Hooking the tester up to the terminals and then reving the engine, he said it was borderline.I was quoted $337 for the hub replacement and $585 for the alternator replacement. To top this all off I looked at the paper work this afternoon and it says they used 20w-50 oil. I'm under the impression that that would be something you would only use during the summer, being such a heavy oil. I'm think I should go back and asking them to replace it with 10w-30. All this was at Zabi Auto, a place that works on Saab/Volvo only. It isn't the usual place I take my car. They were just offering a cheap oil change. I doubt I'll be going back.I will probably go back to my usual shop to get the work done, but I'm really getting annoyed at spending this kind of money when I see what the price of these parts are online. My question, how imperitive is it that I get hub bearing fixed? Should I avoid driving the car till I take it in? Can it wait till next weekend? Next month?My other question, I don't really have the tools, the time or the skill to replace a hub bearing, but I was wondering how difficult it is to replace an alternator? From the Haynes manual it looks like all you have to do is remove the serp belt, and remove the alternator and then reinstall. And the prices I've seen online are $287 for a new alternator. It would be nice to save a bit of money.Any of you Socal guys have experience with these two things? I'm hoping maybe you guys could share some first hand experience? Sincerely,A frustrated, newly turbo'd volvo enthusiastlol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KLS Posted March 4, 2006 Report Share Posted March 4, 2006 Take a good look at your alternator. Does it look like a job you'd be willing to tackle?If the bearings are quiet in your alternator, and no end-to-end movement or side-to-side movement with the serp belt removed, it may just need a new $67 brush & regulator assembly. If there is any cracking in the serp belt, replace it.A rebuilt Bosch alternator is $209, and a new aftermarket alternator is $229.http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850eng_electrical.htm#altIf the hub is making noise when you turn (puts an axial thrust on the bearings), it certainly needs replacement. I'm not aware of any way to make phony movement in the hub, so with 1 mm of play, it's dead. Replace it.I agree, I wouldn't accept 20W-50 oil I really like 15W-40 or synthetic 5W-40 in our engines. Most folks would use 10W-30 except in cold winter climates or if they want to get the additional one- or two-tenths of a mpg the EPA likes with 5w-30.Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajs850T Posted March 4, 2006 Report Share Posted March 4, 2006 something smells funny with the "loose hub theory" i wouldn't sweat that a whole hub thing right now, if there is no noise going on with it i just can't see needing to replace it. This alleged play my be from tie rod ends or a starting to loosen ball joint. If you think its the ball joint after taking a closer look, plan to take care of it in the near future Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James100 Posted March 4, 2006 Report Share Posted March 4, 2006 Yah usual story, car goes in for oil change and you leave finding you've got expensive problems. This 1998 S70 turbo has had more problems in the past 2 months so far than my 99 S70 ever had.Well, the mechanic showed me play (there was about 1-2mm side to side play) in the right front wheel at the 6 and 12 positions, and said that the bearing needed replacing.Other problem, I replaced the battery about 3 weeks ago. The old battery was 6 years old according to a previous owner's paper work, so that seemed reasonable. However, even after installing the new battery I still notice that the instrument panel dimmed when I would turn on the fog lights. I asked the mechanic who did the oil change to check the alternator. Hooking the tester up to the terminals and then reving the engine, he said it was borderline.I was quoted $337 for the hub replacement and $585 for the alternator replacement. To top this all off I looked at the paper work this afternoon and it says they used 20w-50 oil. I'm under the impression that that would be something you would only use during the summer, being such a heavy oil. I'm think I should go back and asking them to replace it with 10w-30. All this was at Zabi Auto, a place that works on Saab/Volvo only. It isn't the usual place I take my car. They were just offering a cheap oil change. I doubt I'll be going back.I will probably go back to my usual shop to get the work done, but I'm really getting annoyed at spending this kind of money when I see what the price of these parts are online. My question, how imperitive is it that I get hub bearing fixed? Should I avoid driving the car till I take it in? Can it wait till next weekend? Next month?My other question, I don't really have the tools, the time or the skill to replace a hub bearing, but I was wondering how difficult it is to replace an alternator? From the Haynes manual it looks like all you have to do is remove the serp belt, and remove the alternator and then reinstall. And the prices I've seen online are $287 for a new alternator. It would be nice to save a bit of money.Any of you Socal guys have experience with these two things? I'm hoping maybe you guys could share some first hand experience? Sincerely,A frustrated, newly turbo'd volvo enthusiastlolI would look into the alternator fast because I just went through that....My regulator wasnt working right and it was overcharging the battery and nasty fumes were coming out of the battery(it was an Autozone Battery)...the battery was literally boiling and venting nasty gases, it took me a while to figure this out........It was on the verge of blowing up....I had 2 batteries blow up in a Camaro I had many years ago so it does happen..... It sounds like he is telling you the truth about the alternator becuse mine had the same symptoms of the dimming lights on the instruement panelThat Haynes manual doesnt tell the whole story about the alternator removal on the 850.....You have to move the power steering pump out of the way because the alternator is under it........I would get the alternator fixed first if I were you and that quote on it is what they want at a Volvo Indy in Canoga Park...Its not cheap.....I would call up Calabasas Volvo (tel # 1-888-875-6964) to get a quote for the alternator repair...Its probably going to be like the other guy told you($600)...I dont know if there is a Volvo dealer in T.O.......Post back on your quote and what you decide to do....I can also tell you alot of general repair shops dont like to or won't work on Volvos in our area.....It also tells you how to do the check on the alternator in the Haynes manual....Check it out.....Bring the car to Autozone(they do it for free) and get the Voltage read after turning on the fan high, lights and radio...It explains what the Voltage reading should be when these power items are turned on.... This will determine if the regulator is good or bad...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Socal Posted March 4, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2006 Thanks for the replies,I would say the hub diagnosis is correct and it is most likely shot. I do notice noise from the front when turning at low speeds, but I couldn't figure out which side it was coming from. I guess I know now. I'll probably get that taken care of shortly. I really don't want to damage any of the transaxel by driving on a bad bearing.When the alternator was checked I was watching the guy do it. He was using an automotive type one (like below) so I didn't see any voltage markings, but the needle was hovering between the green and red which indicated whether or not it was charging I presume. He did all the things mentioned in the Haynes manual like reving up the engine and then switching on the headlights and such.The serp belt should still be good as it was replaced about 10k miles ago.I thought the alternator would be something I tackle because it is a modular unit and doesn't require jacking the car up and removing drivetrain components, but I'm not real keen on having to deal with removing the powersteering pump and that system.I normally take my car to Scandinavian Service in which is in Simi Valley. I've been happy so far with the place, and the owner and mechanics seem to give a pretty straight story.Right now I just want a break from having to put large amounts of money into the car.. O well, yah, right lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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