Sunoco Gt100 + Ecu

[Guest 300+_T5R_855]

in my humble opinion its just not a very aggresive chip. TME chips dyno about an 18-22 hp gain. PES was able to pull a 35ish gain. Granted thats not even the 50 ipd claims but its still a lot more. Turbo itself is an issue up until the 290hp range at which point it becomes the head. But no where in the real world number should octane be an issues

Well, I would have to agree with you. For their market I don't think they want a more agressive chip. Liabilty issues limit what they are willing to offer.

I think they only claim 50 in conjunction with an exhaust.

We will see what can be done in mid March. I am going up to do some real time tuning with 91 octane and see what we can come up with.

I know good fuel sure made a hell of a difference in the performance on my car. The 50/50 blend worked best, which likely landed about 95 octane and added 30 whp.

[Carbon_R]

Let me add my .02 cents to this thread.

I started my mods with a stage 3 BSR kit, it held around 19psi of boost steady with spike of 20-21psi on the good old bogus 15G, I put down 262whp on my car on a dynojet but for some reason I couldn't get passed 17psi, this was all done on 91 grade fuel.

Then ATP came along, upgraded Turbonetics ball bearing turbo, 475cc injectors and the same old BSR chip, I started to knock like a mofo at around 16psi and I put down 278whp @ 16psi on 91 octane (ATP Dynojet).

Then, I decided to run straight Unocal 76 cool blue 100 octane and never looked back, I added the Unichip and power went to 328whp and torque to 406ft/lbs @ 22psi with Atech IC, auto box and a few other goodies on a Mustang Dyno. I added two maps to the Unichip one for 91 and one for 100 octane.

One day I decided that race gas was getting to expensive, plus the gas station was looking for a new race gas supplier, 76 quit sponsoring Nascar so they stop sending race gas to their stations.

I added about 10 gallons of Super Chevron shiat dropped the boost to 15psi like I normally did for daily driving and KABOOM!!

The moral of my story is, if it's available to you, use 100 for max power and reliability, it will save your motor for a long time, I ran straight 100 octane gas for two years at 22-25psi with no issues what so ever, no knocks or timing issues on stock internals!!!!.

Raf

[Che'_Moderator]

The moral of my story is, if it's available to you, use 100 for max power and reliability, it will save your motor for a long time, I ran straight 100 octane gas for two years at 22-25psi with no issues what so ever, no knocks or timing issues on stock internals!!!!.

I give up. 100 octane for all. The 500+ hp cars all run 300 octane, coolant and plugs mean nothing, blow by causing knock is just a myth, and FWDs Volvos for some reason cannot run 12s. Propper tunning is hype. Real solution is more octane

[thelostartof]

you only need more octane if you had a bad tune .... hence y most of these fwd volvo's run so well on higher oct none of these generic chips are anything close to a good tune

[Guest Guest]

I give up. 100 octane for all. The 500+ hp cars all run 300 octane, coolant and plugs mean nothing, blow by causing knock is just a myth, and FWDs Volvos for some reason cannot run 12s. Propper tunning is hype. Real solution is more octane

Well lets get down to brass tacks and nails. What in your tune allows you to run 91 octane, and get 300 whp with stock internals. I doubt you have an answer, but I am waiting.

The lower the octane the more horsepower you can make. This is a known fact. Lower octane fuels have more BTU. That being said you need to control the detonation.

You couldn't even burn 300 octane if it was even available. WW2 fighter planes used 150 octane FYI

Tell us oh great one, whats in the secret sauce.

[Guest 300+_T5R_855]

That was me in case you couldn't tell.

Not only that if 91 is so good why don't race teams line up at Chevron in Califronia.

[Che'_Moderator]

That was me in case you couldn't tell.

Not only that if 91 is so good why don't race teams line up at Chevron in Califronia.

I have close to a 12.3:1 tune. I do have water injection but even before that I did not have any issues. Assuming you have decent plugs, and no engine flaws causing hotspots there is not excuse for these chips to knock. You ask what makes one chip better than another? Things like ignition corrections can net huge gains. Do you really think IPD sets up their chips up with fine corrections? Even their fuel corrections are course. In some cases they are only triggered by off scale high or low. 90% of "tuners" just dial up the boost and pull timing. Oh and add a squirt of fuel for good measure. IPD nets about a 20 hp gain. It adds 4 psi.... do the math.

[Carbon_R]

I give up. 100 octane for all. The 500+ hp cars all run 300 octane, coolant and plugs mean nothing, blow by causing knock is just a myth, and FWDs Volvos for some reason cannot run 12s. Propper tunning is hype. Real solution is more octane

Geezz, chill bro. My recommendation comes based on my experiences, I had a very nice A/F ratio accros the board on both maps 11.8:1(91) to 12.2:1(100), I was also doing other stuff that not too many people did back then.

Also all those Subies, Evos or DSM's that your ranting about that are runing 600whp+ mostly run race gas, look at AMS as an example with a GT35R with huge injectors runing 94 or 93 octane well in to the low 10's A/F ratio, guess what, they are all using AEM stand-alone EMS or that AMS beast that runs 9 sec with a GT42R on C16 gas.

There's a lot more "options/tuners" in that specific segment of the market, so don't go on comparing a Volvo with a DSM or any other car in particular. The guy that tuned my car did twin turbo Porsche's, bimmers, Audi's galore but still was stomped on a few minor obstacles with my car, that's the price you pay and learn as you go, no one is perfect. A Volvo is not that special of a vehicle to tune but once the tuner does a few, he gets the hang of it and what works/doesn't work...

My old 94 RX-7 ran T67 with a million goodies on it and I hit 500whp, it was runing so freaking rich I could smoke a steak for you and shot 3 foot flames for several seconds. True, is all about the tuner but that's what we lack here in the states for Volvo's...

In my years of owning this 850R, crap, I've hit a million walls from big brakes to coil overs to turbos and the infamous words of wisdom "we don't see a market for Volvo's" from just about every tuner out there. If you know a secret let everyone in on it, then we wouldn't be ranting about this shiat.

Raf

[JHEIII874T5M]

You realize Charles' car has been trapping 110+ MPH for over 4 years... when I contacted PES 3 years ago for a chip they no longer had the program. Sucks.

[Che'_Moderator]

You realize Charles' car has been trapping 110+ MPH for over 4 years... when I contacted PES 3 years ago for a chip they no longer had the program. Sucks.

Did they tell you why GIAC stopped that chip? There were rumors that GIAC was tuned very agressive and kids were blowing engines. Thats what I heard on a VW/Audi site. So... yeah... DUB so who knows.

[JHEIII874T5M]

I had a very nice A/F ratio accros the board on both maps 11.8:1(91) to 12.2:1(100)

There's a lot more "options/tuners" in that specific segment of the market, so don't go on comparing a Volvo with a DSM or any other car in particular. A Volvo is not that special of a vehicle to tune but once the tuner does a few, he gets the hang of it and what works/doesn't work...

A/F is fine and dandy, but timing maps on these cars is what makes the difference, I've seen my wideband read 12.2 and trap 101 on 100 unleaded. Go back, put the 475's in, 11.3 a/f and trap 104. ;)

[Guest 300+_T5R_855]

A/F is fine and dandy, but timing maps on these cars is what makes the difference, I've seen my wideband read 12.2 and trap 101 on 100 unleaded. Go back, put the 475's in, 11.3 a/f and trap 104.

Well that all gets back to one thing. Off the shelf ECU's are tuning to a 15g for a '95 car without other mods. How many on this board have the stock turbo that came in the car? I am sure that custom tuning for each individual car would make the difference as to how it runs on 91, 95 or 100 octane fuels. To expect to get an off the shelf ECU that performs optimally to your combination is ludicrous. There are simply too many possible combinations. Could they be better, likely so. To say that getting the right fuel, spark combination for every car should be the same and they should all run perfect with the same fuel is unreasonable at best.

For example:

What's the compression ratio difference under 16 psi boost with a 15g compared to an 16t etc etc, from 16 psi to 18 psi. If you look at those numbers you'll see why. Compression = Heat + too much timing = detonation. This symptom is easily fixed by better fuel. Is it the best fix, maybe not. Does it work, in my case it has with some other minor adjustments.

Since I don't want to spend a ton of dough on fuel I will likely have it custom tuned to 91 octane for my combination.

It's a balance that has to be tuned to each individual combination for optimal performance.

[Che'_Moderator]

Well that all gets back to one thing.

For example:

What's the compression ratio difference under 16 psi boost with a 15g compared to an 16t etc etc, from 16 psi to 18 psi.

Hold on let me get my calculator out. Ok..... if I am correct the CR difference is exactly.... NONE.... ZERO..... NODA.....ZIP....

;)

[Guest 300+_T5R_855]

Hold on let me get my calculator out. Ok..... if I am correct the CR difference is exactly.... NONE.... ZERO..... NODA.....ZIP....

Uh huh OK, That's why they are turbocharged engines are 8.5 :1 and not 11:1. What do you think happens under boost? The CR doesn't change? and it doesn't change more the higher the psi? Toss that calculator

[Che'_Moderator]

Uh huh OK, That's why they are turbocharged engines are 8.5 :1 and not 11:1. What do you think happens under boost? The CR doesn't change? and it doesn't change more the higher the psi? Toss that calculator

Oh man. I feel stupid. Your right.