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10" Alpine Sub Or Two 6.5" Jl Subs


toms850R

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Just installed Polk Audio 5.25s in front. Polk 6x9s will be here soon for the rear deck. I'll be pulling the speakers in the rear doors.

I picked up a new 10" Alpine Type-R for $90. It's a really nice looking sub (not installed yet), but I'm not sure I'm going to keep it. I'm thinking that I might pick up a pair of JL Audio 6.5" subs instead. Anyone here used those? I'd like to install them in the rear doors - keep my truck sub free.

Bing - ever done that type of install?

I don't want bass that can be heard from block away, I'm just interested in a nice well round sound with just the slightest kick.

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BTW I'm very new at audio, so a couple of questions...

1) For dual voice coil speakers, do I need 2 channels per sub? I.e., a 2-channel amp for one sub or a 4-channel amp for two subs?

2) I have the stock HU...where should I tap into for the amp/sub output?

3) Is it necessasy to run new speaker wires to the sub(s)

I was thinking of tapping into the speaker wires for the rear doors at the output of the HU, putting an amp in the dash, installing two 6.5" subs in the rear doors and using the exisiting speaker wires that go to rear doors. Benefit: uses existing stock locations, no sub in the trunk, no extra wiring necessary.

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by the way I'm very new at audio, so a couple of questions...

1) For dual voice coil speakers, do I need 2 channels per sub? I.e., a 2-channel amp for one sub or a 4-channel amp for two subs?

No, you can wire a DVC sub in series or parallel to present a different amount of resistance. In either of those cases you could power the sub with a single mono (one channel) amp.

2) I have the stock HU...where should I tap into for the amp/sub output?

You should get an RCA convertor or something like that. They make things specifically for this purpose. I'm sure someone who knows Volvo HUs better than me will help you out here.

3) Is it necessasy to run new speaker wires to the sub(s)

Yes, you will need to run a set of wires from the HU to the amp and then amp to sub. Also, the amp will need power ground a turn on.

I was thinking of tapping into the speaker wires for the rear doors at the output of the HU, putting an amp in the dash, installing two 6.5" subs in the rear doors and using the exisiting speaker wires that go to rear doors. Benefit: uses existing stock locations, no sub in the trunk, no extra wiring necessary.

You will be hard pressed to fit an amp IN the dash. Under the dash MIGHT be possible with a tiny amp, but chances are that isn't going to work. Unless you plan on doing a LOT of dampening, putting subs in your doors might not be the best idea. Parcel shelf works well.

Please see my bold above.

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Why the need for new wires from the amp to the sub? How much does the gauge of the wire affect things. Smaller gauge means more resistance and less power at the sub, but if you have decent power from the amp to start with, does it really matter?

Also, I'm not familiar with "parcel shelf," please explain.

Finally, how would mounting them in the 6x9 holes sound?

I've got this 10" alpine waiting, but I'm having trouble convincing myself to take up so much space in the trunk!

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Why the need for new wires from the amp to the sub? How much does the gauge of the wire affect things. Smaller gauge means more resistance and less power at the sub, but if you have decent power from the amp to start with, does it really matter?

Also, I'm not familiar with "parcel shelf," please explain.

Finally, how would mounting them in the 6x9 holes sound?

I've got this 10" alpine waiting, but I'm having trouble convincing myself to take up so much space in the trunk!

You need wires from the amp to the sub if you don't have any already.

When he says parcel shelf, he means the rear deck.

You're going to be doing a fair amount of work to fit subs in the rear deck. You will have to build something either on top of and/or below and most likely will end up cutting into some of the metal, starting with making the holes bigger. It's not the best location for one, but if you're dying for trunk space and really want to do it, I suppose you could. I wouldn't recomend it, though.

It's not too tough to make a good, small box for the trunk. Actually, much less work than putting them into the doors or deck and you'll end up with better sound as you don't have to make as many compromises.

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Tom, it wouldn't be too hard to make a little enclosure that fits in the side of the trunk and thus doesn't take up too much space.

The gauge of the wire is completely dependant on the power the amp puts out. I would not go smaller than 8 gauge. The reason being that running too much current through a small wire results in a lot of heat, a lot of heat creates fire. Fires are bad.

However, the gauge of the wire from the amp to the sub is not nearly as important as the gauge of the power and ground wires.

As Bing has said, running wires in 850s is one of the easiest cars to do it in. Go for the 10" Alpine and get a nice little amp, you'll be glad you did. Also, a sealed enclosure for a 10" sub is NOT as big as you think, so just design it so it fits somewhere out of the way in the trunk and you're good to go.

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Also, a sealed enclosure for a 10" sub is NOT as big as you think, so just design it so it fits somewhere out of the way in the trunk and you're good to go.

Use the corner behind the taillights on one side. Small, clean, and out of the way. You can even run some kind of overly-rugged grill for further piece of mind when hauling all your stuff back there.

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