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Problems After Track


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Ok so at the track I'm boosting to 17 psi. On the way home we stop at someones house for about 10 minutes and when we get going again I can't boost past 5 -6 psi. I wait and about 20 minutes down the highway go WOT and hit 17 again like usual. Then once i go another 20 minutes i try again and it sticks at 5 psi!! WTF! I was running race gas mixed w/ 93 at the track and was running perfectly fine there. I am still running perfectly fine, it's just that I cant boost past 5 psi. I have no codes present and no CEL.

Here's what I've done / checked.

All IC lines are fine, I took them all off and cleaned them out today. No leaks or cuts or anything, they were replaced like 10K ago.

All vac lines are fine - Numbers show it + I just replaced all the lines going to / from the BCS teusday.

I've pulled the ECU a couple times to "reset" it.

I've pulled the intake hose off and checked for shaft play - none present it's rock solid and spins freely.

Also checked the wastegate actuator arm. The flapper is definately seating down properly and has a full range of motion.

I'm ripping my hair out trying to figure this out. Could it possibly be the CBV on the compressor itself?

Thanks in advance for your help

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Could be the CBV, yank it off and check for tears in the diafram.

I had a fairly new "hi flow cat" that came on my EST downpipe clog up after about 8 months of use. Boost dropped from 5 to 0 psi over time.

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Aw it better not be my freakin cat. I think it was put on in january. If it were the cat though wouldn't the boost fade as the RPM's rose?

Over time I noticed mine would hold, but after a while it would get a 2 psi fade and it's get lower and lower till it did'nt boost at all.

Check the CBV and think of more things to check [bCS could be bad] before getting any ideas about replacing the cat [or being an asshole and gutting it like I did]

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Over time I noticed mine would hold, but after a while it would get a 2 psi fade and it's get lower and lower till it did'nt boost at all.

Check the CBV and think of more things to check [bCS could be bad] before getting any ideas about replacing the cat [or being an asshole and gutting it like I did]

so you did fix the issue lol!

USMC, fuel cut every now and then? check you fuel pressure at the rail? how about that nutty fuel pump relay?

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How in the hell am I supposed to get to the 2nd and 3rd bolts on the CBV?

I've got the intake pipe off along with the top IC hoses and I definately can't get to the left hand and bottom bolts! Should I remove the shield on the back of the motor?

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check for tears in the diafram.

Off-topic...but that's how my ex-wife got pregnant! :blink:

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How in the hell am I supposed to get to the 2nd and 3rd bolts on the CBV?

I've got the intake pipe off along with the top intercooler hoses and I definately can't get to the left hand and bottom bolts! Should I remove the shield on the back of the motor?

You can do it, trust me. I have found that its easiest to get the bolts out by removing the charge pipe and silicone coupler coming off the top of the turbo compressor. You can then reach both of the top bolts. The lower bolt you can reach from below. Be patient.

These wrenches REALLY help a lot:

00942400000-dlv.jpg

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jeez time to go to the store. If i do find that my CBV is torn, then what do I do? Get a blanking plate and a BOV?

A BOV and blanking plate is the best setup, IN MY OPINION. I'm sure lots of people will say otherwise. So, its up to you of course.

If you find your diaphram is trashed, I have my old CBV take-off that is in perfect condition. $30 shipped if you want it.

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jeez time to go to the store. If i do find that my CBV is torn, then what do I do? Get a blanking plate and a BOV?

And should I try replacing the BCS first?

If the BCS were bad would I throw a code?

check the CBV before anything, if it's got a tear, you know you have a problem.

If it's torn, you can get a blanking plate and a BOV, or since I'm getting a Forge BOV within the next few days you can kick me down some lunch money and I'll send you my CBV off of my car [less than 10k on it].

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And should I try replacing the BCS first?

If the BCS were bad would I throw a code?

My BCS was old and tired and not boosting past about 12-14 psi. And was very slow to build and caused wacky behavior on up shifts. Most notably 2-3 upshift. I had no CEL at all.

I installed a MBC and now build boost quickly (obviously, from a MBC) and hold more boost for longer. And it shifts much better now too. Never mind the fact that my tired cracked conical 15g can't hold boost to redline...thats a whole other thing :)

The BCS is pretty spendy though, I'd make sure it was bad before replacing it. If you replace it at all.

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