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Wiring Schematic


Figawi

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I might be wrong here, but isn't it the same on the amp as it is on the back of the HU? I thought they plugged the secondary connector from the radio straight into the amp, with a special pass-through for the ACS or ASC or whatever the acronym is for the speed volume adjust.

Moreover, why do you need to do this? If you're in a sedan, the wires should allready be there, and if you're in a wagon, check to see if there are speaker wires under your seats (down near the hinges). They just might be there. I came across the connectors in mine when running new lines for my kickpods. Didn't check to see if they were hooked up but I assumed they were.

If you're using an aftermarket deck to power everything vs. the 850R amp, I'd say this is a bad idea too, as the amp has more power.

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I might be wrong here, but isn't it the same on the amp as it is on the back of the HU? I thought they plugged the secondary connector from the radio straight into the amp, with a special pass-through for the ACS or ASC or whatever the acronym is for the speed volume adjust.

Moreover, why do you need to do this? If you're in a sedan, the wires should allready be there, and if you're in a wagon, check to see if there are speaker wires under your seats (down near the hinges). They just might be there. I came across the connectors in mine when running new lines for my kickpods. Didn't check to see if they were hooked up but I assumed they were.

If you're using an aftermarket deck to power everything vs. the 850R amp, I'd say this is a bad idea too, as the amp has more power.

Paul,

It is a wagon. I will check under the seats for an extra set of wires. I don't know how the stock amp is hooked up.

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Well I assume we're talking about your 97-R and the add-on amp behind the HU.

In mine the deck has one of the cables (for power and the like) and the other one goes to the amp. I just ASSUMED this connector had the same pinout as on the back of the deck (would be logical), but I did not check. The amp gets it's audio signals from a 6-pin DIN connector on the back of the HU.

If you remove your volvo HU and install an aftermarket one, it's advisable to use the volvo amp (unless, of course, you use an after-market amp) as amps put out more power than HU's. To do this, you need to fabricate a RCA <> 6 PIN DIN (Female) adaptor. There are pinouts on this website, and it's not hard to do.

If you find the wires under the seats, I'd suggest you hook up a DMM (multimeter) or a junk speaker on low volume just to make sure that's what it's actually for. If you don't, and end up running new wires, I'd assume the pinout is the same on the amp as it is on the HU, and then just do the same test before hooking up your new speakers.

Sorry if I'm giving you extra info, but I'm still not 100% sure what you're trying to do. Why are you doing 5x7"s in the back of a wagon? Quick & Dirty way to get more midbass without messing with better speakers up front / a sub? Or do you have something else in mind... (just curious)? Hope that helps you...

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Thanks for the input Paul. I am trying to do this: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=52295

My goal is get more midbass without having a sub or an extra amp. I like the stock sound that is in my sedan and I hate the sound that is in my wagon. The wagon sound is absolutely terrible and it has the add-on stock amp. the difference between the two systems (minus the amp) is the 5x7 speakers.

If it doesn't work then no worries. I'm just experimenting with extra parts I have kicking around.

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In order to do something effective with 5x7"s, you'll need to fabricate a mounting system where #1 the sound output can reach the passenger area, and #2 you isolate the baffle area (i.e. a sealed box, or a trunk). IMO, this is harder than doing a decent sub setup. You would basically be adding your own custom rear dash. However, if you have the parts cost is always a benefit.

The 850R amp is REALLY strong; for around a week I ran my 10W6 off of the right rear door channel, and while it wasn't nearly as good as a dedicated 250W+ sub amp, I Was surprised it was as powerful as it was.

I would seriously urge you to consider replacing the stock speakers, it can make a LOT of difference, especially in the R's where we have the dedicated amps. I would put a good set of 5.25"s up front and a good set of 6.5"s in the rear (will require a little bit of work to make them fit, but there's an article on it). And that should give you a fair amount of midbass.

If you go to a store that sells audio parts they usually have pre-made sealed boxes for 5x7 and 6x9 speakers. You could buy a set of these, get an external crossover (perhaps from Ebay) and set them in the cargo area like two mini-subs. However, even this will take an hour or two of your time, and cost over $30. If you let the high-frequencies through, it will also sound weird.

You could do the same thing using two small subwoffers (8" or 10" max) and some sort of a low-pass filter / crossover, but I don't know how the wires that would go to the 5x7s are hooked up (if at all), so be warned that you could overload your amp if you do this in conjunction with rear-door speakers.

Honestly even the sound in the sedans is crap. I had a 97' 850 Sedan, so I know. Even in the newer sedans (S70, etc) it's medicore at best (though, much better). I hear in the new-new ones it's even better, but I haven't heard it. If you replace your speakers and get a sub, you'll be happy. And if you get kickpods and a sub, you will be VERY VERY happy (though perhaps a little poorer...). Adding a sub is not hard, although if you keep the volvo deck (like I did, for now), you need a DIN "Y" cable - which I also made myself. They're around $30 to buy, but you can make one for much less.

Hope the experimenting goes well, tell us what you decide to do and how it turns out.

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paul,

i have a pair of JL 5.25s in the front doors and Infinity Kappas in the rear doors. I am going to replace the ones in the rears with 6.5s though. The two 5x7s i have are from one of my old sedans so they have the stock housing. I was going to cut holes in my floor boards and mount them that way. If I get a cross over for those, where do I install that? Can I split the speaker wires going to the two rear doors and run two wires to the back to power the 5x7s?

Im wondering if my stock amp is even hooked up...

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Pull out the deck (push in the two tabs on the side with your car key or a penny) and then pull them out. If there's one connector on your deck, and a black cord labeled "AMP", you're using the amp (The second connector on the HU should have one wire, either red or orange, can't rememember). If there are two rectangular connectors, both full of wires, you're not.

If you're suspecting it's not hooked up because of how weak the sound is - it may not necessairally be the amp. I was really surprised when I first got into my R. JL / Kappa = nice. Going to 6.5" in the rear will definetly help with your midbass, though.

Yes, you could definetly split the rear-door speaker wires and run them back, but remember the amp is expecting a 4-ohm load. When it sees two speakers 4 Ohm it will get 2 Ohms, and I really can't say what will happen. I know if you try this on the 850 Decks, they overheat and shut off the rear channel (I've tried many ghetto things).

The speakers from the sedans, however, are 8 ohms I believe - and this will present your deck with a (does quick math) 6 Ohm load, with 66% of the power going to your rear-door speakers (If I did my calcs wrong feel free to correct me) and 33% going to the 5x7s.

You can put the crossover whereever you want, a lot has to do with what size you get. Some are really tiny, while some are huge (4"x7" or so). You don't really NEED one, but it helps reduce high-frequency bleed-through. However, if you find the connectors under the seats I spoke of, you wouldn't need a cross-over at all. In fact, the connector should match the one on the back of the sedan speaker perfectly.

So,

First, try to find the connector under the seats. see if it works.

Second, see if your using your amp or not.

Third, if the connector isn't there, split the rear-door line & see what happens.

Fourth, if there's too much high-frequency beed-through (or you use speakers besides the volvo ones) get a crossover somewhere & install it.

Fifth, still consider getting a sub!!

I honstly don't think this will turn out to be the best sounding (using the floor board) or easiest project (cutting the floor board), but I'm interested to see how it will turn out.

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well im considering getting an inifity bass link for a sub. i know there are speakers in the rear pillars of my wagon but when i connected the 5x7s to them all i get is vocals. anyway to make those wires give a full range sound?

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No, they're connected to a volvo crossover (the same one that would go to the rear-deck speakers if you can find the connectors). And I don't know where it is. You could pull from the rear door speakers if you wanted...

Also - if you do a tap like this, you need some way of turning on and off the device's "remote" line, so it doesn't stay on (part of the DIN -> RCA adaptor). That's more custom wiring - or you can do what I did when I did a temporary install in my dad's 850 - and put a toggle switch on it. However, if you leave it on (which I did once), dead battery here we come!.

Running signal wires is not hard whatsoever, I don't know why people are so afaraid of it. Making a DIN splitter is a 20-minute job, while buying one is $30. Making a RCA -> DIN adapter is another 20-minute job. Then all you have to do is pull out your deck, connect the adapter, and snake the RCA cable in.

How I got my rca cable in was I pulled back the plastic paneling on the center console with my fingers say 1/3" (just enough to get the RCA connector through) then shoved a bunch of wire in there until I saw it. Then I pulled it through, and connected it to the adaptor I made. Run it under your floor mat, and under the wagon seats. You have a little bit of wire poking through in a few places, but much easier than pulling up all the flooring.

You'll still need power wiring for the basslink (or any sub for that matter) but ssssh there's a little trick - if you use 8GA wire, you can snake it through the gaps in the paneling up the side of the door, and get it through to the engine compartment. Ghetto, I know - but you don't have to drill through the firewall (however if you do this make 110% sure you put a fuse by the battery - if you rub through the insulation the wire will short, which is not fun).

But by the time you've gone through all that work, all you have to do to use a sub instead of the bass-link is buy a decent amp ($150) and a decent sub with a box ($200) and now you're really bumpin'.

Looks like you have a lot of options to consider.

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PLEASE don't put 5x7s in your wagon's floor. To begin with, it's not a very effective method. But, I have actually seen someone do this and it did not come out very well.

I bet that you'll find a touch of bass from a sub is what you're after. With a sub, you're not going to have the same issues that trying to use 5x7s for bass will bring. They're not made to produce what you're after and have to be used or at least installed in such a way that with your setup, it's going to be a little disapointing if not done correctly. However, from a cheap and easy quality point of view, you're on the right track with the Basslink. A BL won't be super loud, but I can tell that's not what you're after, which makes it a good choice. :)

By the way, I'm thinking of doing another big audio sale this summer, like the one I did this past December. Depending on when you're ready to pick something up, it will probably be your best bet for picking up the 6.5s and Basslink. :tup:

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