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Mbc Vs Tuned Ecu


Phil94850

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im sure this has been discussed before but.... you know us newbies :D . i know with a tuned ecu your going to get a better managment of fuel, boost, timing, etc. for a cost of basically 800.00 bucks or a little less. purchasing a MBC your going to increase your boost and H.P. is it worth the 800 bucks for the differnece in hp gains ???

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some people do it for 800

some do it for ~300

remap helps MOSTLY for cars with extensive mods

such as downpipes and exhausts, and maybe even new turbo's

MBC are good if you want to add some pep to the car, but not recommended if you plan on going all the way

i'm using an MBC right now only to make sure my car doesn't have boost spikes, NOT to raise boost

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look at it like this, tuned ecu is safe and is more benficial in the long run. mbc is good for a little more oomph to the car you'll get as much boost as stock maps allow for so depending on the application you'll get little to no hp increase, you'll probably gain a lot of torque though

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torque is always good.

i'm stuck in this debate myself. i dont want to mod the hell out of my volvo since its my daily driver, but i'd like to give it a little more power so an mbc seems like the best bet (plus i have one sitting around that i pulled out of my mx6) but i still want to preserve the life of my car and not kill the thing cause i've grown quite fond of it. i didnt mind it in my mazda cause the boost was never controlled by the ecu in that car, it just has a solenoid that controls it and i just replaced that solenoid with an adjustable one (manual boost controller) so, no sleep lost. i'm sort of worried about running an mbc but what damage do you think running ~11 psi would cause?

oh and also, would it work alright with an automatic trans? i've been working on manual trans turbo's all of my life but the concept of a turbo automatic is still cloudy to me.

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New/remapped ECU will remove the torque limiter in 1st gear which makes a huge difference.

is there any way you could eliminate the torque limiter by remapping the stock ecu and just let the boost controller do the rest? i'd love to be able to get rid of the 1st gear limiter and get higher boost but i just cant bring myself to pay $600-$800 for a new ecu or full remapping, would it be cheaper/possible to remap the ecu to JUST remove the limiter?

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have you read about the ecu options?

some only cost 300-400 dollars

yeah i've lurked on this board for a while before registering and have done a lot of reading. the problem is that i dont exactly have 300-400 dollars either. 150-200 would be stretching it. i already have the mbc from another car so thats basically free, and that i can do. what would be some negative effects of running at about 11psi (i've seen a couple people recommend that amount) w/ a manual boost controller? like i said, i'm not looking to boost the living hell out of my car, i just want it to give a little bit more.

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I added a MBC on the weekend.

My MBC is one that can be placed inside the car or in the engine bay.

During testing i had a vacc. line out of the supplied T-piece, out of the top of the bonnet and thru the open window. I adjusted till the car felt good and it turned out to be 11psi. The control knob is now mounted under the bonnet and things tidied up. I have not boosted anymore from the initial 11psi setup. The car had a service today and i had it's bum sniffed and oxy levels are good.

To give you an indication of what 11psi doe's is that when accelerating away from a stand still, with Tracs. off of course it will 'just break' traction.

I am in two minds whether to bump a few more psi. This too is in an auto transmission.

Happy boosting. 11psi is fine.

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You take your ECU out, you plug the new ECU in, takes about, 2 minutes :P It's plug and play to switch ecus, problem is you have to send your ecu in to have it chipped, could take like 2 weeks of downtime on the car. So you need to buy another ECU as backup to drive while you get the car chipped if it's your daily driver. People also suggest you write your name and address on the side of the ecu you send it to make sure you get the same ecu you sent out back. This is especially the case with speedtuning from what I hear.

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