Jump to content
Volvospeed Forums

Help With New Amp & Subs In My S80


live4ever

Recommended Posts

alright awesome, thanks for the help guys.

it looks like i'll being going with the pair of 12" visonik subs in the bandpass enclosure and a 600w visonik amp to power the subs which also comes with a free amp wiring kit. then the only other thing i have to order will be the the din wire and i should be set. once i get all the stuff, i'll post a couple pics and let you know how the installation goes. thanks again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So here is basically what the back of my HU looks like:

hu611.jpg

I see two open DIN connections on the top left which I guess means that there is no stock amp in the car. So now that I know there is an open DIN connection, can I use one of these:

http://www.quickbrickmotorsports.com/prod_dincable.html (the second one down)

And if I do use one of those, how will I know which one of the numerous RCA jacks to use to run to the amp?

Oh and also on my S80, the battery is under the trunk floor, next to the donut tire, so I should be able to tap into the battery right there, correct?

Thanks

All you need is a High Low adapter it connects to the rear speaker lines from the back of the factory harness. You just splice them in and then you have the RCA outputs you need for the aftermarket amp. They are not that expensive and its a pretty simple install.

Vick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All you need is a High Low adapter it connects to the rear speaker lines from the back of the factory harness. You just splice them in and then you have the RCA outputs you need for the aftermarket amp. They are not that expensive and its a pretty simple install.

Vick

Yeah that's what I was originally planning to do, but I rather not splice into wires if I don't have to, seeing as just plugging in a DIN cable to the back of the head unit would be much easier. Also as previosly mentioned in this post, and also by the guy at my local car audio shop, using the DIN-to-RCA converter directly from the head unit should sound a lot better and less distorted than splicing in and using a high low converter.

One last question, does it matter which of the two DIN ports I connect the cable into? Are they the same or are they different? Someone else on another forum mentioned that one of them should be for MelBus (but I'm not sure exactly what that is). So which of the two DIN ports should I be plugging the adapter into? Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do they have the same pinout ? I couldn't really tell from the picture. Seeing as line-out is an output only signal, I don't think there'd be a problem if you accidentally got the wrong one... Try punching the deck's model number into the VS search / Google, and see if someone's cleared it up...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah that's what I was originally planning to do, but I rather not splice into wires if I don't have to, seeing as just plugging in a DIN cable to the back of the head unit would be much easier. Also as previosly mentioned in this post, and also by the guy at my local car audio shop, using the DIN-to-RCA converter directly from the head unit should sound a lot better and less distorted than splicing in and using a high low converter.

One last question, does it matter which of the two DIN ports I connect the cable into? Are they the same or are they different? Someone else on another forum mentioned that one of them should be for MelBus (but I'm not sure exactly what that is). So which of the two DIN ports should I be plugging the adapter into? Thanks

That is true depending on what you are installing the DIN converter will sound better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do they have the same pinout ? I couldn't really tell from the picture. Seeing as line-out is an output only signal, I don't think there'd be a problem if you accidentally got the wrong one... Try punching the deck's model number into the VS search / Google, and see if someone's cleared it up...

Yeah, the pinouts look identical to me. I've searched almost everywhere and couldn't find any relevant info. If anyone knows how to differentiate between the two open DIN connections on the HU-611, please let me know. Thanks.

Here's a much larger pic of the back of the head unit, so you can better see the ports:

http://members.cox.net/deviation56/hu611-2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

it looks like i'll being going with the pair of 12" visonik subs in the bandpass enclosure and a 600w visonik amp

Please .... Just Please tell me that you're not going to go to PepBoys and pick out one of their "packages" are you? I saw that exact Visonik package and there, and trust me i would not want subs and an amp that sound like the latest lazer surgery for your eyes. IMO

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That what I was going to say. I was reading this thread and hoping you didn't buy them yet. My friend just bought two 12's in a box with an amp for 125 bucks. That's kinda cheap and for a damn good reason too. You could easily find something better. It's not a good sounding sub. My friends' have soooo much distortion- it's not even funny. They are not worth it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In all of my research, this is what I have found out so far. On the back of the HU-611 pictured above, there are two DIN ports. The one on the left has 6 pins and the one on the right has 8 pins. My problem now is that I am having conflicting information on which port is the aux-out port. All the ipod adapters plug into the 8 pin DIN ports, which would lead me to believe that the 8 pin DIN port is aux-in and the 6 pin DIN port is aux-out. Can anyone confirm this?

*EDIT* Alas, I find the answer to my question:

"I would like to clarify the audio ins and outs with the information I have. There are two 'coaxial' (DIN) connectors on the HU-803 unit. One is a preamp output to the external amp and the other is for auxiliary devices such as CD Changer, RTI, and TV.

The first is a six pin DIN that goes from the audio unit to the amplifier. This connector does not have any digital signal as far as I can tell.

The second is an eight pin DIN that goes from the audio unit to the auxiliary device. This connector contains both digital and analog signals. The digital signals are MELBUS but the audio signals are analog. Theoretically, someone could splice into this cable and tap into the audio signals given they can fool the audio unit that an aux device (CD CHRG/DAB/MD/MD CHRG/TV) is attached. I believe someone posted a solution whereby he connected a CD Changer to audio unit in order to get the CD CHRG source while splicing into the cable to install a switch so he could select the CD Changer and a second source. An expensive solution but it appears to work.

In designing an auxiliary input module, all one needs to do is to replicate a signal to fool the head unit into thinking that a CD Changer/DAB/TV/MD is connected. Once this source appears on the audio unit, you can inject a second audio source into the unit. Keep in mind the RTI system uses the DIN8 port for the voice feature. And the aux input on the RTI unit is a DIN13 connector. Therefore, I would suggest using a DIN8 M/F pass through type connector on the aux module." -- posted by MyNewT5

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...