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I Need Wiring Help. Hu->amp->subs


Oreo931

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Wow when Kevin's helping noobs in AV we've got problems...

Oreo931, you think of the strangest noob questions. How the hell did you manage HID / Led underbody / rear fogs / boost gauge if you're worried about cutting wires?

I know this thread has been idle for a few days now, but there still seem to be several of the origional questions that have gone unanswered.

Regarding wiring your subs, it seems your subs are 4 ohm SVC (Single Voice Coil). What you'll want to do is connect Positive (+ / red) on one sub to Positive on the other, and Negative (- / black) on one sub to Negative on the other. This will drop the "load" to two ohms. This will make your amp work harder, but will allow you to get more bass. With your subs being SVC, the only other option is 8 ohms, which would suck badly. Your amp appears to be mono (5 terminals, should be + speaker, - speaker, + battery, Remote, - battery) - so you don't have to worry about bridging.

Regarding the wire / terminals, I'd only use 4GA to your distibution block, and then use something smaller like 6GA or 8GA to your amp. I don't know the spec's on your amp, but it's not going to pull enough current to maximize 4GA (hell, it's internal fuses are 40A, and you can run that on 10GA for short distances). Using smaller wire from your distribution block to your amp will make your life easier. Don't use anything under 10GA though (ie 12 / 14 / 16 ga). If, however, you don't want to get more wire, 4GA will work, but you'll have a hard time getting a reasonable spade connector to fit. Trimming the end of the wire is of course within the rules, but it's ghetto, and best avoided if possible.

When Kevin says "set the amps accordingly" I'm going to clarify, just in case you don't know what this means. You need to make sure you have a "low pass filter" enabled (IE, it only lets the low frequencies AKA bass through). Ideally, you'd set this around 75Hz, but chances are your mid-bass response (the lowest frequencies a regular speaker should produce) is crap. You're probably going to want to "cheat" and set the low-pass higher, say between 100 and 120Hz. This will make your bass sound a little worse, and give you somewhat shitty mid-bass, but it will probably make you happier until you get amp-driven components, kicks, or whatever. If you're happy with your midbass, then set the LPF back to where it should be, around 60-75 Hz.

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Hey, thanks for the response. I know that I have plenty of experience with wiring things etc, i do all of my own work on the car...

The reason I was so worried was because I didnt want to fry anything because in total this was a huge investment for me.

$190 - amp and sub

$46 - other sub

$45 - wiring

$70 - box

If I blew a fuse, or burned something out or whatver, i would be really angry at myself. So thanks to you guys i have some great useful advice and i was able to install my amp successfully. My box arrives tomorrow so thats when the subs go in, i cant wait. Thanks again for the help.

p.s. i didnt install the distributor bc i am not going to have another amp, this is it for audio until i get my new car (in hopefully less than a year). Also, i used 4ga to my amp and its sort of ghetto but it holds, and works so im satisfied.

Thanks VS

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Hey, thanks for the response. I know that I have plenty of experience with wiring things etc, i do all of my own work on the car...

The reason I was so worried was because I didnt want to fry anything because in total this was a huge investment for me.

$190 - amp and sub

$46 - other sub

$45 - wiring

$70 - box

If I blew a fuse, or burned something out or whatver, i would be really angry at myself. So thanks to you guys i have some great useful advice and i was able to install my amp successfully. My box arrives tomorrow so thats when the subs go in, i cant wait. Thanks again for the help.

Wasn't saying you didn't, you have a lot done to your car. Just made your questions seem a little weird... But I guess there's no such thing as being too safe. Not a bad price for a starter system, but regardless of how much $$ you have in a system it sucks to blow things. Everything I've purchased and am not using now I've blown (3 subs, 3 amps - various reasons for each). That doesn't include a 12W7 Fedex dammaged and refused to honor the insurance on. I'd say that's over a grand in blown crap :unsure: .Oh and w/ blowing fuses, it can be a PITA if you don't have spares, but they're not very expensive.

p.s. i didnt install the distributor bc i am not going to have another amp, this is it for audio until i get my new car (in hopefully less than a year). Also, i used 4ga to my amp and its sort of ghetto but it holds, and works so im satisfied.

Thanks VS

Seeing as it's your system, #1 is that you're happy. While saving for a car is probably a good idea, it's very easy to move most things from one car to another. Obviously the more custom it is (like, kickpods) the less useful it is, but amps and components are pretty much universal.

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all i have to say is that this system POUNDS! i feel like i am getting a back massage from the front seat...my internals vibrate...im really satisfied...I spent a total of 350 on it, but had i bought everything in stores this would have cost me 605.

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all i have to say is that this system POUNDS! i feel like i am getting a back massage from the front seat...my internals vibrate...im really satisfied...I spent a total of 350 on it, but had i bought everything in stores this would have cost me 605.

glad to see ya got it all hooked up man!

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