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B230f Timing Belt And Fms


Ronny

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looks like part of that upper rad hose connection broke off

Yes it did. I "bumped" the upper hose with my breaker bar. The fitting crumbled up like a graham cracker. I'm glad I broke it then instead of having it happen on the road somewhere. The replacement rad is from and '87 740 and it's all brass. Looks like an aftermarket unit and doesn't quite fit perfectly but it works.

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Guest Lucas Adamson

Do you get Haynes Service Manuals in USA. In the UK they are standard and pretty amazing guides to your car, and replacing most things, with step by steps and photos.

Lucas

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That's my crankshaft pulley holder. (patent pending) :lol:
So how does that work?

In that photo, it looks like maybe you used the wood to apply tension to the drive belts, which even if that would work, it wouldn't be a good idea to put that kind of rotational stress the crank pulley where the rubber separating the two parts of the pulley might fail (or lead to a future premature pulley failure) under the enormous torque required to R&R the crank bolt.

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So how does that work?

In that photo, it looks like maybe you used the wood to apply tension to the drive belts, which even if that would work, it wouldn't be a good idea to put that kind of rotational stress the crank pulley where the rubber separating the two parts of the pulley might fail (or lead to a future premature pulley failure) under the enormous torque required to R&R the crank bolt.

Well, it's not the best way to do it. The Volvo Crank tool is the ideal way but I didn't get one. I did however, make sure that there was equal tension on all three grooves. I only used one foot to hold it then pushed my breaker bar to undo the nut. Same thing in reverse and I was able to torque to 42ft/lbs (?) plus 1/6 turn. If I damaged it, I'll find out soon enough. By the way, there is no more oil leaking from the front of the engine. :D

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