pwebb Posted October 13, 2006 Report Share Posted October 13, 2006 well, i'm hoping its something small and easy to fix. here goes.the car runs fine. but yesterday, I stopped by my house, shut my car off, and when I tried to start it back up, everything went mental.- put key to position II to allow fuel pump to prime, which is usually 4-5 seconds. it only lasts less than one second??- car isn't even on, but the RPM gauge is fluttering as if I'm reving the engine.- car will crank strongly, but there is no spark?- flashing arrow of doomI keep up on all the maintainance. My guess is the fuel pump relay? thats never been touched. what do y'all think it could be? I'm gonna have to wait to bring it in next week. ugh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Figawi Posted October 13, 2006 Report Share Posted October 13, 2006 can you hear the fuel pump click on? if it was the relay or the pump you wouldn't hear the pump click on. the car is reving when off or when you're trying to crank it?when do you see the flashing arrow? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwebb Posted October 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2006 I can hear the pump click on, but only for less than a second. it usually lasts 4-5 seconds.with the key sitting in the II position (not cranking) the RPM gauge goes crazy.the flashing arrow is on when the key is in II position. all dash lights are on. arrow is blinking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Figawi Posted October 13, 2006 Report Share Posted October 13, 2006 do you have a check engine light on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwebb Posted October 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2006 it's been on for months. whoops? that would probably help, eh?would autozone be able to read and clear it? or is that left to the Volvo dealer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MeanGreenSwedeMachine Posted October 13, 2006 Report Share Posted October 13, 2006 Autozone can't read the codes, but you can (unless '93s are different?). There's a wire and some holes under your hood, do a search and you'll find out how to read them. Once you get the codes, if you can't find what they mean post them here and I or someone else with the book will tell you what they are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest Posted October 13, 2006 Report Share Posted October 13, 2006 Autozone can't read the codes, but you can (unless '93s are different?). There's a wire and some holes under your hood, do a search and you'll find out how to read them. Once you get the codes, if you can't find what they mean post them here and I or someone else with the book will tell you what they are.93 ohhh not a fun year... anyway the "wire and holes" is called a DTC box haha, its on the passangers side right behind the headlight. Turn the key to II and then insert the wire into socket A2(left hand box) and then press the botton once. After you press the botton you will get blinks, write them down and post them here... it will go something like this Flash-Flash pause Flash-Flash-Flash pause Flash-Flash-Flash then push the botton again to get the next code..which you would write down as 2-3-3. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwebb Posted October 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2006 I read up on clearing my own codes, but it seems like I need some sort of special tool. From what you guys are describing, there is no special tool involved? I'm confused! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Figawi Posted October 13, 2006 Report Share Posted October 13, 2006 the 93's do not require a tool to read your codes. this should help you: http://volvospeed.com/CheckEngine.php93 is a bad year for electrical issues in these cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarVolvo Posted October 13, 2006 Report Share Posted October 13, 2006 As an owner of a 93 and 94.. i have not found many electrical issues on these cars.. and considering the mileage on it.. mine has done pretty well.. anyone else have major electricals ?I think you should read up on the OnBoardDiagnosis on the car.. and i think you should look at A6 for engine.Try to figure out the codes first..If you never changed the relay, its not a bad start to do it, then after go after the pump.Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwebb Posted October 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2006 oh wow. ready, go.A1 313 223A7 122 113 121Does anybody have more information about these? The pinned DTC info is great, but it's incomplete.Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AkitaWagon Posted October 14, 2006 Report Share Posted October 14, 2006 I haven't had any electrical problems with my '93 850 either.A1 / 223 : Throttle Position (TPS) sensor signal too lowA1 / 313 : Faulty signal from gear position sensor (PNP)A7 / 113 : Fuel Trim (rich or lean) A7 / 121 : Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor interval too longA7 / 122 : Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor slow to respond Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AkitaWagon Posted October 14, 2006 Report Share Posted October 14, 2006 .... and your sig says "stage 0 done", but if you haven't already, change out the fuel pump relay as already suggested.If that doesn't help, it might be the fuel pump. For my '93, the relay died first and then the pump went about a year later, so you might as well replace both at the same time with your mileage. With the codes you have, you need to replace the Throttle Position Sensor (erratic RPMs) and probably the PNP switch. You can try the "quick fix" for the PNP by just shifting your gear selector back and forth about ten times to see if that helps.Remember to clear your error codes and see what remains after all your initial repairs are done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AkitaWagon Posted October 14, 2006 Report Share Posted October 14, 2006 oops...You also need to replace the ECT sensor and probably the thermostat while you're there to clear those A7 codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadeInJapan Posted October 14, 2006 Report Share Posted October 14, 2006 No one mentioned this so I will. If you just try to go in and reset/clear your codes it won't work. YOu have to read all fo the codes first for each socket (A1, B2, etc.) before the diagnostic box will allow you to clear them. Hope this helps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.