lookforjoe Posted April 5, 2015 Report Share Posted April 5, 2015 I'm trying to decide if I should dry fit it all to measure or just go ahead and put in the seals and anerobic sealant. Leaning toward the latter Hell yeah. No reason to do a dry run, it will not change anything, except make more work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted April 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 After a few week delay, my rad and ignition coils showed up. I completed the wiring for the coil on plug conversion, so that's done.There weren't many places to mount the Earls oil cooler and in hindsight, I would have bought one a little wider and shorter. Luckily the rad came with brackets welded for the A/C condenser which I was able to use to mount my own brackets for the oil cooler. I never use the A/C so I had already torn it out.I'm using Russell -8 nylon AN hose for the oil cooler that run to the fittings I had welded onto the stock lines I cut off.I got the cams in and was able to set them up by lift @ TDC on cyl 3. Worked great.I got my bro to cut and weld the big water pipe at the back of the motor to get the water line outlets out of the way of the compressor inlet and also to aim the water return port from the turbo down and away from runner 1 on the manifold.Water lines are plumbed for the turbo.Next is to have my buddy weld up an oil drain and weld a vband to the turbo compressor outlet. Then I'm going to wrap the manifold and install it with the turbo.Once that's done, I can rejig the intercooler piping over the motor and the 4" intake pipe to the turbo. Last bit will be to test fit Trent's downpipe and modify as needed. Probably redo the wastegate dump and plumb it back into the downpipe also. Definitely the flange will need to be cut off and the one for my 3" GT outlet welded.The only thing I need to buy is injectors and i'm leaning towards the ID1000s. Then I have to decide if I wanna redo all the fuel lines or just wait til next winter. I have all the stuff but I just wanna drive my carrrrrrrr vvvvrrroommm pssshh &6%$#)*&#@ 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted April 24, 2015 Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 I definitely wouldn't wrap the manifold unless you want it to turn into a rotted mess.I believe Trent got it ceramic coated... So if that's still in tact your good to go, or get it re coated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 Coming together nicely! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted April 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 I don't have a welder so I had to drag the spare block to my buddy's house with the manifold and turbo mounted so he could weld up an oil return.I pulled the pan, crank girdle and crank out because now that i'm done with it for mockup, I'm going to build a spare short block to have as a spare. I already have an extra set of china rods and the set of forged diamond pistons that I got from Trent. I have rings and rod bolts so I just need bearings.Oil return doneHad him weld a vband onto the compressor outlet also..A shot of my modified water pipe and oil cooler lines. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yes70plainwang Posted April 30, 2015 Report Share Posted April 30, 2015 Effn awesome!!! this is what mine aspires to be someday! ,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ol' Dirty Noodle Posted April 30, 2015 Report Share Posted April 30, 2015 sick display name Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted May 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2015 gettin thereGot a hair taken off the head flangeManifold mounted and turbo in place.Now I just need to mock up the intercooler piping over the motor, redo the intake pipe and redo the downpipe. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted May 10, 2015 Report Share Posted May 10, 2015 Manifold mounted and turbo in place.Now I just need to mock up the intercooler piping over the motor, redo the intake pipe and redo the downpipe.Looks great! Much more room for the compressor housing with that setup. Wouldn't it be better to canter/move the turbo outlet further over to the left to reduce heat soak? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted May 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 It would probably help a bit with heat soak, but there is little room once torque mount and 4" intake pipe is in place. Plus, it would require a lot more rejigging of the intercooler pipe. I have a bunch of heat shielding from cars i've parted so I might put something in place to create some separation.I did manage to find a billet oil cap for the rear since it's close to the manifold. Just looking for another so the two will matchI got the intercooler piping and intake pipe mocked up. Just going to do one final test fit after work, then it's off to be welded. It actually looks closer to the than it really is 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted May 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 So I test fit Trent's downpipe. It still has the flange for his old turbo on it, but I just wanted to get an idea of how it sits. His turbo was a fair bit shorter than mine at the turbine outlet so it's sitting over to the passenger side a good couple inches more than his at the moment. I'll be cutting off the flange so I can have the proper one welded and can cut it back an extra inch or so to bring the pipe more towards the driver side. Either way, where it passes over the subframe/steering rack it's pretty close to my fuel lines. I still have the stock lines in place and had planned on switching over to -6 AN all the way back to the pump. I have all the fittings, hose, S60R rail with -6 fittings welded, Aeromotive regulator, gauge etc.. my only problem is this..Trying to adapt the stock 5/16" hard line at the fuel pump housing to -6 AN. The hard lines have no barbs on them.Russell make an adapter fitting, but it uses the barb to lock into place.That is the fush on type which is now discontined, but it still uses the barb. The other adaptors say they are limted to 50psi which isn't going to work.What are my options here? I have a spare pump housing and could just get -6 fittings welded to the hardlines? Then just pull my assembly out and swap my pump over.. (currently running a Walbro GSS432) or put a better pump in while i'm at it.Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted May 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 (edited) I could also just fab a new downpipe with a nice tight bend off the turbo to keep it away from the fuel line area. Then I could worry about the fuel lines later.. Edited May 20, 2015 by BlackT5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted May 20, 2015 Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 I'm planning on using this Fragola fuel pickup kit to convert my pump to an AN-06 feed http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fra-900700/overview/ My plan is to totally ditch the stock hardline, and run the Fragola hose in-tank between the pump feed and the bulkhead fitting on the pump housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted May 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 So I looked into the bulkhead fittings and it seemed really promising, but i'm not sure how well it will work after looking at the underside of the pump housing. Maybe the AWD stuff is different?Once you remove the stock hard line and drill it out to accept the -6 bulkhead fitting, that plastic boss will be gone and those fins will have no strength to tighten the nut to. If you ground them down, the top piece is so thin it wouldn't have much strength either.I'm still looking into alternatives. Welding won't work cause it will just melt the plastic around the tubes and lose the seal.I'm contemplating using the push on fittings and then modifying the cover plate to keep them held down. That or just put a fuel cell in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted May 21, 2015 Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 Oh yeah the AWD pump housing is a metal cup, there's no plastic on the backside. This picture is from Hussein's thread. He silver-soldered a 3/8" (-6 AN) fitting onto the stock 5/16" (-5 AN) line. You might be able to do something like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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