Infinity Basslink Ii Or 2 X Open Air 8"

[CcL]

I'm looking at adding sufficient bass to the system... i don't need anything boomy but having that once in a while is nice.

I don't want to give up trunk space so I've narrowed it down to Basslink II or any 2 branded open air 8" so i can mount them on the rear speakerboard in place of the 6x9 or whatever is there.

I've thought of the idea of having a sub in the spare tire well but I don't know how much that would set me back... so...

I don't want anything too heavy either... I used to have 2 12" and 2 10" in my 240 so i don't want to repeat the same mistake again.

I'm planning a component 5.25" front and 5.25" coax rear and no 6x9s, so I need bass from somewhere...

Any suggestions would be nice... thanks!

[ViperVette]

Basslink is a nice simple low watt alternative to big heavy box systems. I personally think its a good solution for just a little bit extra bass. However, it dosen't have the punch to get it done if your about booming some rap or techno or something along those lines.

[WhiteT5]

I have the basslink and it does quite well for me with the music that I listen to most of the time. The most bassy stuff that I really listen to though would be something along the lines of Matisyahu. Like VV said, if you're looking for serious bass and are listening to rap/hip hop/techno, you'll need to look more at the traditional amp and sub set up.

Audio is otherwise stock besides some MB Quart's in the doors and a Kenwood HU.

[Owned]

I listened to RussB's car after he picked up a Basslink and for a low-cost, room-saver system I think it sounded very nice. He also has an Alpine HU with some aftermarket 2-ways in the doors, if I remember right..

You could certainly do some IB 8's in the rear deck, but you won't be able to match the lows of the Basslink. Cost wise they come pretty close to each other. But even with entry level gear you could very well end up spending more on the 8's. Couple hundred for an amp, $100-$150 for some off-brand 8's, plus the small stuff like MDF to make your baffles, whatever you choose to finish the MDF in, etc.

IMO, the best option between the two is the BassLink. The other direction you could take is to pick up a monster 8 and build a nice, small, well engineered enclosure for it. You could get great sound and volume out of it without requiring much space or weight. It would cost more in both time and money, but would be markedly better from an audio POV than either of the other options.

[Figawi]

go with the basslink.

[Slater]

Where would you put the basslink? And what HU would you be using? Also, where would you tap it from (addtl output from HU, or tap into one of the rear speakers, or what?)

[CcL]

hmmm only thing that worries me is the basslink II problems i read online... stuff about them breaking down almost immediately.

if there was a basslink it'll be in the trunk somewhere... HU is a eclipse cd5000 (seller sent me this for the price of a display unit 8455.. heh) so it'll be tapping from the the units sub-out.

Owned,

i also did think about the 8" in a .5cu/ft enclosure. that should be pretty small if i do a 1ft x 1ft x .5 ft... was looking at the L7 8"s as per one of the threads here (and they need only need .405cu/ft)... what "monster 8" were you refering to anyways? care to elaborate?

Greg, where have you been? been waiting for your call for my cc details since last week... thought you were busy so didn't want to bother you with emails.

[Owned]

Just any high-quality 8. I was using "monster" as an adjective, rather than a brandname.

The Sound Splinter RL-I is a very nice 8 inch driver. Possibly costs more than what you're looking for, but I figured I should mention it, as these little subs have impressed me before.

BTW, if you do decide on a Basslink, one or two, let me know. ;)

[RussB]

Adam hooked me up woth a BassLink for a great price

I have an Alpine CDE-9843 HU and Alpine "S" 5-1/4 fronts and 6-1/2" rears. The Basslink is very useful addition to this system.

The B/L is connected to the HU's subwoofer out.

[CcL]

hmmm

i've been scouting around for 8"s and W7s are out of the question mainly because it is so heavy and huge.

Looking at W3V2 and 8L7... any other models to recommend?

Also, I notice a problem... These 2 woofers are DVC and if i run only 1 in parallel, i get 2ohms or 8ohms in series assuming i get the 4ohm woofer... I found a W3V2 that has 6ohms so if i run it parallel it'll be 3ohms. Is it ok to run a 2ohm stable amp with it? Assuming an amp has 116w @ 4ohm and 312w @ 2ohms, does it mean that it has 155w @ 3 ohms? Or should i find a 2ohm woofer and run it series to get 4ohm? These 8" woofers can't take alot of power (since i'm gonna run sealed) and thats about as low as class D amps go.

[Attack Eagle]

I owned a basslink, and it's performance is more of "Fill" for factory speakers, than an addition to an aftermarket setup. It simply can't keep up. And they are expensive...

I know you said you were interested in 2 8's, but have you considered a SINGLE 10 or Single 12 in a small enclosure? Say 1-1.25 cu ft? Particularly if it wasn't the uber deep frames that we have become accustomed to in these last 5-6 years? Say an IDQ12 or IDQ10, or the DLS Mw110?

All very nice sq woofers, low cost new (well under $200), and don't need more than 300W, easy enough to get from a small footprint modern amp. And they are "unblingy" and don't attract attention.

IF you are dead set on a pair of 8's instead of a single sub, a good choice IMO would be either ID8 or DLS OA8. Both work exceptionally well in .5 cube sealed enclosures. With both in parallel you could handle the 300w output of your amp at 2 ohms with ease.

[CcL]

the problem with idq is they need a large mounting depth which probably hits 10" after it goes in a box. Thats quite alot of space...

I was thinking 1 8" in a sealed enclosure now. This compared to the basslink II, which would have better results?

[Owned]

the problem with idq is they need a large mounting depth which probably hits 10" after it goes in a box. Thats quite alot of space...

I was thinking 1 8" in a sealed enclosure now. This compared to the basslink II, which would have better results?

Basslink would cost less (given my VS discount), but a good 8 in a good enclosure would sound better.

Did you look at the 8 I recommended?

[Owned]

I owned a basslink, and it's performance is more of "Fill" for factory speakers, than an addition to an aftermarket setup. It simply can't keep up. And they are expensive...

I know you said you were interested in 2 8's, but have you considered a SINGLE 10 or Single 12 in a small enclosure? Say 1-1.25 cu ft? Particularly if it wasn't the uber deep frames that we have become accustomed to in these last 5-6 years? Say an IDQ12 or IDQ10, or the DLS Mw110?

All very nice sq woofers, low cost new (well under $200), and don't need more than 300W, easy enough to get from a small footprint modern amp. And they are "unblingy" and don't attract attention.

IF you are dead set on a pair of 8's instead of a single sub, a good choice IMO would be either ID8 or DLS OA8. Both work exceptionally well in .5 cube sealed enclosures. With both in parallel you could handle the 300w output of your amp at 2 ohms with ease.

Door speakers run off a HU won't be overpowering a Basslink. If you're looking for a more high-end system, and have a strong front stage, you wouldn't want the Basslink since it's not designed for that application. It's a quality component, given that it's relatively low-cost (unless you buy from someone like Crutchfield), and won't be producing overbearing bass. You're not going to be able to get as loud as the Hondas down at the local highschool, but that's not what the OP seems to be after.

[CcL]

http://www.soundsplinter.com/rli_series/rl...nformation.html

checked it out here...

was wondering if i should get dvc or svc?

Also, how do you read the graph on it... does it mean the Butterworth / Sealed 0.2 cu ft net volume produces 20hz at over 20db?

Anywhere I can find them cheaper? I guess I'll be able to run JL 250/1 on these eh?

EDIT: holy crap... the mounting depth is almost 6". Similar to IDQ 10s. Wouldn't I be better off with an IDQ 10 if i wanted that kinda mounting depth.... urgh decisions decisions..