MadeInJapan Posted December 28, 2006 Report Share Posted December 28, 2006 Okay, so I had some vibration at high speeds...all steering/suspension components checked out as well as tire balancing. I alos noticed the engine movement at start-up. I have the poly bushing on the top torque mount as well as the firewall bushing still in good shape. Under the car dealing with a shorting fog light and noticed the belt-buckle mount...the lower torque mount, often called the tranny mount. The round part is broken. So, I believe this is the cause of the slight vibration and engine movement on start-up.I have found only Scan Tech and Slater's mount. Other than that, I guess it's dealer item.I don't want to introduce more vibration with a harder mount. What are my options? Is Slater's the best way to go? I know it's an easy R&R...will probably still need PB blaster as I suspect it's been on there since the beginning and I'm at 135K miles now....Oh, almost forgot...this is on my '98 S70. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadeInJapan Posted December 29, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2006 Okay guys:fcpgroton: Scan Tech....about $40Slaters': About $80 Is a rebuilt Scan Tech from what I understand...he's filled them.Dealer: OEM part (don't think Scan Tech makes it, but I might be mistaken): $65Which would you get? I don't want any more vibrations but I don't want it to fall apart either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AkitaWagon Posted December 29, 2006 Report Share Posted December 29, 2006 If you don't want the vibration transfer, I would go with the OEM one. The QBM one is reinforced and more durable, but may give you the extra vibration. I guess you could ask Slater if he had an opinion on how the QBM mount would be with your other existing poly mounts. The QBM website has the transmission mount listed at $70 (before VS discount), so the pricing would be close to the OEM one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caliwagon Posted December 29, 2006 Report Share Posted December 29, 2006 Okay guys:fcpgroton: Scan Tech....about $40Slaters': About $80 Is a rebuilt Scan Tech from what I understand...he's filled them.Dealer: OEM part (don't think Scan Tech makes it, but I might be mistaken): $65Add one more: you can by my QBM one for $55 shipped. I bought it before inspecting the mount that was on there, which turned out to be fine (only inspected it after doing the swap). Hasn't even seen 500 miles on the car. PM me if you're interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadeInJapan Posted December 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2006 Add one more: you can by my QBM one for $55 shipped. I bought it before inspecting the mount that was on there, which turned out to be fine (only inspected it after doing the swap). Hasn't even seen 500 miles on the car. PM me if you're interested.Thanks man! I just bought your mount!Regards,David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadeInJapan Posted January 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2007 Thanks man! I just bought your mount!Regards,DavidUpdate:I bought the mount and installed it yesterday. From what I could tell from the old one it was busted, but I didn't realize until I took it off that the OEM mount has a slot in the front and the back so there is nothing wrong with it. Oh well, I put Slater's mount in. With it and the poly upper mount the engine does have more vibration- something I was trying to avoid, but at the same time, it seems to be more responsive off the line, so that's a good thing. I'm hoping that things will settle in a bit and smooth out. The bolts have (for the large) 18mm heads on them and 14mm heads (for the smaller). Didn't realize that there's a metal fuel line in the way as well as a head of a tranny bolt that keeps you from using any adapter with a ratchet. The 18mm's came out fine with a 3/4inch socket but I couldn't torque tighten them until I took a break, went to the Autozone to buy the right 18mm socket (somehow this was the only one I was missing). I also had a bear of a time getting one of the 14mm screws out. PB Blaster helped a bunch as well as the correct (no adapters) socket. I bought a breaker bar that helped me tighten everything up to spec.- a good tool to have around for other things. When I do my TB next month- I'm about 5K away now, I'll do the mount under it. Anyway, thanks to Caliwagon for the mount- it came in good time. If anyone needs an OEM one that has quite a bit of hard flex left in it, let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedn_j Posted January 8, 2007 Report Share Posted January 8, 2007 do you still ahve the high speed vibration? i have the same vibration but can't figure it out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadeInJapan Posted January 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2007 do you still ahve the high speed vibration? i have the same vibration but can't figure it outYep, and now at about 3000rpm's when I'm trying to open things up (actually shakes and rattles the interior some)- it wasn't there before the "upgrade," but like I said, I'm hoping it will smooth out after awhile. These harder mounts are great for longevity but not so much on smooth rides. I'm thinking that I'd rather replace mounts more often than continue to have my teeth jarred. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-5Bandit Posted January 8, 2007 Report Share Posted January 8, 2007 Yep, and now at about 3000rpm's when I'm trying to open things up (actually shakes and rattles the interior some)- it wasn't there before the "upgrade," but like I said, I'm hoping it will smooth out after awhile. These harder mounts are great for longevity but not so much on smooth rides. I'm thinking that I'd rather replace mounts more often than continue to have my teeth jarred.Teeth jarring? Either you are dramatizing the vibration you are getting or you have something else wrong with your car. A urethane lower torque mount is not going to increase the amount vibration that much, if at all. I have one with the IPD poly, and a urethane firewall mount, the vibration difference was virtually unnoticable from just having the IPD poly only. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadeInJapan Posted January 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2007 Teeth jarring? Either you are dramatizing the vibration you are getting or you have something else wrong with your car.Yes, I am exaggerating, but it is a noticeable amount of shake. I've checked all of the other mounts and they are fine except the one under the TB which is suspect. I'll be on that one when I do the TB change next month. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caliwagon Posted January 8, 2007 Report Share Posted January 8, 2007 Yes, I am exaggerating, but it is a noticeable amount of shake. I've checked all of the other mounts and they are fine except the one under the TB which is suspect. I'll be on that one when I do the TB change next month.Make sure that one is good quality--I wouldn't buy the scamtech one. When replacing with the t-belt, I'd do mount completely before starting on the belt. Keep the belt guard plate on while you're doing the mount, just to be safe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadeInJapan Posted January 10, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2007 Make sure that one is good quality--I wouldn't buy the scamtech one. When replacing with the t-belt, I'd do mount completely before starting on the belt. Keep the belt guard plate on while you're doing the mount, just to be safe.John,Thanks for the good advice. I'm probably going to hire this one out. I'm starting to get busy again after the new year as things are cranking up. If I have the time I'll do it for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caliwagon Posted January 10, 2007 Report Share Posted January 10, 2007 John,Thanks for the good advice. I'm probably going to hire this one out. I'm starting to get busy again after the new year as things are cranking up. If I have the time I'll do it for sure.Don't farm it out. Just make sure you have all the parts, the right size wrenches for everything, and a way to compress the tensioner if yours is hydraulic and you're reusing it. Follow Bay13 and/or Haynes and you'll be done in one smooth Saturday morning, will an extra $200 in your pocket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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