Got My Subs.

[Owned]

Just build something larger than the hatch opening from inside the car and bolt it to the body. That's what I did.

[prasamin]

1800w peak, 50w RMS.

if it turns on.

[NGB]

Yea... but I dont know much about Amps...

Its a wood, split, sealed box.

Insellated/stuffed with cotton.

Two used 05 ten inch cvr's.

Going in the back of a wagon.

All the specs I know of...

Those aren't specs. Page 4 of the manual, here http://www.kicker.com/06/tech-support/manu...ub%20Manual.pdf , would be specs.

Also, whoever told you that the subs wouldn't even move with anything less than 700 watts was lying. Underpowering your subs means they will not be as loud, but it doesn't mean they won't work.

[paulr]

...the pyle 1800w amp has just been purchased.

they're pyles of stuff.

Amp brand doesn't matter so much especially with subs / SPL - focus on the numbers and how well they're rated, and see if you can find an authoritative review on the amp (car audio magazine or reputable review website). Different amps from the same MFR (Especially over different years) can vary widely. Oldschool soundstreams were SPL beasts, slightly newer ones were more SQL, and the new ones supposedly suck. Same company. When you get to SQ / SQL, the numbers matter a litte less and the "sound" of an amp can matter much more. There are dozens if not hundreds of good amps out there, but pyle is not one of them. If you're buying new, cost is usually a decent indicator. I'm not saying that the most expensive will necessairally sound the best as some brands are overpriced (JL being one example), but a $50 amp will not be able to compete with a $500 amp.

My first amps were a sony 700w and a punch 200w, both of which were freebe's, and both of which were an absolute joke. Then I got some PPI amps ($350 ea) and they worked pretty well, but I managed to kill both of them. After that I had an ED 9.2 which was a very nice amp (~$200) but not really poweful enough for me. Right now I'm running a soundstream 320.4 which is around 700W max, and that set me back $250 on Ebay and it works pretty well. I Just picked up a DLS Ultimate A3 which I'm still testing, but seems to be a very nice amp. All of these amps were in the $250 to $350 range, and each one was absolutely worth it. I don't know if I'll ever buy a $1500+ SQL amp, but staying away from the cheapies is always a good idea.

Lastly, regarding the "subs won't move with less than 700W" comment, that was probably on an inferior amp, and nowhere near a real 700W. I can tell you that my ED 9.2 put out more power than my 700W sony, and while the "700w" one probably would have had trouble with two 10s, the ED 9.2 would handle them pretty well (if wired correctly).

[97Rwagon]

Well paul, Im on a small budget. So I got what I could afford. I think I got the point now. Pyle's are garbage. So when Im in the market for a new amp, Ill check back to this thread to see what I need to get.

[paulr]

learning for yourself what's good and bad is, IMO, the best way to learn. You don't really appreciate a good amp until you've ran one that's a piece of stuff. Having a few things catch fire (sony amp) also drives this point home. Maybe you'll be lucky and that specific model of pyle won't be absolute trash, but you'll get a ton more out of a speaker when you put it on a good amp. I never put any of my systems on a mic so I can't give you db's, but I'd say the single 12" I had got 20% louder when I went from my Sony to my Precision Power. With car audio, ebay is your friend. If you're patient and know what you're looking for, you can snag some really good deals on there. Some of my deals include Alpine type R 5.25 speakers for $25, Precision Power PCX4125 for $150 (three years ago), and both my Precision Power EQ's (31-band and 5-band) for $60 total. Amps from any of the following will never let you down: JL, Alpine, Elemental Designs (ED), DLS, MB quart, and probably a few others. Soundstream, Precision Power (PPI), Kicker, MTX, Rockford Fosgate, Lanzar, and MANY others have many different qualities of amps, and you need to focus on specific models, and can't really go just by the brand. Sony Xplod's are one of the few mainstream MFR's that offer crap, but rumor has it that some of the newer offerings aren't so bad. I'd still stay away. When you find a model of amp that looks good (specs, aesthetics, price, whatever) - Google it and look for reputable reviews on it. If you can't find anything, post on a car-audio specific forum, or here, and see if anyone has any experience. If it was easy and cheap to put together a good system, everyone would have one.

Anyway, install your stuff and have fun with it, and hope you don't get to the point where you have multiple $$$$s sunk into car audio gear. I've probably sunk $4k on car audio stuff, and compared to some of the guys out there / on here, that's nothing. At the end of the day, as long as you're happy with it, that's all that really matters.