240 Gl '86 Power Windows

[CarVolvo]

Ongoing challenge to get this new addition to the fleet safetied ..and im down to two issues..one i have already posted.. but this one is about power windows.

I am more familiar with 850's and i know when the windows get screwed up .. 9 times out of 10 it has to do with the master window switch.

The issue is that the power window on the drivers side doesnt always go up and down. I took out the master drivers control and started pushing the wires around. It appears the common black wire which runs to both switches ..when pushed around makes the windows on the drivers side work.

FOr safety here in Ontario canada you have to have the drivers side window working. I am thinking of ordering another master switch.. but in the meantime is there a simple way to fix this. Or is there a way of jury rigging the switch so i can get the drivers side window to work every time?

On thought was to switch the wires around on the master switch so i swap the passenger side with the drivers.. so in case it was the wiring then i can test it out .. but it seems you have to have all four windows hooked up to the master swtich to allow any of the windows to work.

I hope you can understand what exactly im trying to describe here...lol

[Three Fat Tigers]

All 240 power window switches are the same. So swapping connectors around should work and thereby tell you if it is the wiring or the switch. The wiring diagrams haven't changed even the slightest little bit between at least '83 and '93.

The connectors and wiring at the switch almost never fail, but the switch terminals can become blackened with corrosion. They could be treated with a dremel with the small wire brush bit (+eye protection), or 00 steel wool (messy), then spray the switch terminals and the connector (Plug) terminals with some DeoxIt spray (radio-shack or pro electrical supply store or google, a must have for the fuse panel too). Then plug the connector in a few times, that should take care of that issue.

A much more common problem is for the contacts inside the switch to corrode and require attention, there you need to remove the switch (kinda difficult), disassemble it (not difficult), clean the contacts (dremel or steel wool + DeoxIt spray).

To remove a switch from the panel, there is a paper thin black tab at the front and rear of the switch that needs to be pried away from the switch body to free the switch. This thin black tab tends to break (that's brake for those who can't spel), so try heating them up with a heat gun/hair dryer first. Before returning a switch to the panel, it can be tested by plugging it into the electrical connector.

If you need a factory wiring diagram for this, send me a PM, I have a diagram on-line somewhere.