Amp Capable Of Speakers And Sub

[maiku]

From an SQ POV, this is a bad idea. If you don't care and just want to get by it will work. You're also likely to be underpowering the speakers when doing this.

when using stock speakers, sq is already shiat

i'll rewire everything when they start to die and when i'm brave enough to take out the door panels :lol:

[paulr]

Problems happen when people just keep resetting their breaker and eventually it fails and the wire overheats.

This is true, this is true. Thankfully I've never overloaded / popped my breaker. I've been lucky enough not to experience a "total meltdown" like the guy who had 0GA go to chassis and the resulting fire totaled his car, but back in the day I had a few close calls, and let's just say that when my PCX1500 let go it wasn't fused (kept blowing them, 100A AGU, so I went FTS and removed them), and that let out a lot of smoke. Thank god for quick-release connectors, I was able to yank it out before the wire got untouchably hot. Maybe a 150A fuse in addition to my 100A breaker (which is really for my fuseless amp) just to prevent against "total meltdown" isn't a bad idea...

From an SQ POV, this is a bad idea. If you don't care and just want to get by it will work. You're also likely to be underpowering the speakers when doing this.

You mean a VERY bad idea...

LF drivers tend to draw more power than HF ones, especially if efficiencies are different, meaning it's very easy to set up a system this way where you end up with less bass than you would if you didn't have the sub (assuming your components are decent). Also, you now have to find (or make) a filter / crossover so your sub doesn't get HF. Finding one that does exactly what you want will be difficult, and making one requires an understanding of filter design, which is also difficult.

It's not impossible, this is the same concept as a 2 or 3-way component system. It can however be very difficult, and usually has no pro's, just con's. It's almost always better, for so many reasons (headache, performance, even cost) just to get a separate amp, or a 4CH amp, or something which allows for separate current paths.

when using stock speakers, sq is already shiat

i'll rewire everything when they start to die and when i'm brave enough to take out the door panels

are you talking about actually running new wires, or a S70 where you have to pull panels to change speakers (i think)? Because the doors, at least on the 850's, use a quick-release connector, meaning you're stuck with stock wires unless you feel like cutting apart the connector, or running a separate loom (what I plan to do). And, never worked on a S70, but on the 850, pulling the door panels is cake. You can do it in maybe 10 minutes, if you're being careful.