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Battery Relocation


Deuss

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The stock starter and positive battery cables are run into a terminal box with two bigass fuses. Out the other side, the 0 GA positive cable is run through the firewall above the pedals then down the middle under the center console, armrest, etc until it pops out in the trunk. Use heavy (at least 4GA) wire and quality crimped, soldered, and heat shrunk terminals. I used excess wire to redo all my grounding straps. The cable is 0 GA which is absolutely overkill. You can ground to the frame rail under the trunk if you don't want to run a ground wire all the way back under the hood. Again, quality terminals, heavy gauge, and make sure you get a good connection where you go back to the frame (i.e. wire brush the paint off and smear with some sort of electrically conductive corrosion prevention compound.

Between moving the battery and removing the stock airbox, I have a nice-sized space for possible future upgrades like an air-liquid intercooler or a water injection system and tank.

Hope this helps,

-Jon

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Between moving the battery and removing the stock airbox, I have a nice-sized space for possible future upgrades like an air-liquid intercooler or a water injection system and tank.

Yeah, absurd amount of space as well.

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I used 1/0 gauge in my 240, which is overkill. 4ga might be a bit light for a big car with a big battery. 2 or 1 is probably best.

Don't run a ground cable back up to the front...pointless. I used a stock negative battery cable in my car and it's got two leads...grounded one to the chassis and one on the hold down that's welded to the chassis. But do add a heavy gauge cable from the block to the chassis.

You can wire in a solenoid at the battery so that the long run of cable through the car is only hot when it needs to be. Add fuses too. I have neither in my car. I did wrap the cable in split loom just to give it a little more protection from rubbing.

The battery hold down to the chassis needs to be very strong. The stock battery is probably 30-35lbs and if you're in an accident, you'll be thankful that you have a strong hold down bracket when the battery tries to break free. BTDT...I was glad I had my 15lb Odyssey installed when I smacked a guard rail and bent the hold down bar where it was welded to the sheet metal in the trunk. If you weld or bolt to sheet metal, triangulate the mount, perhaps to the wheel well next to the battery.

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In my trunk. Im going to use a regular battery box but i will build a wooden box and cover it with felt so you can't see the battery.

Home Depot has some plastic boxes that I use at work for a watering cart (it has a standard size car battery and we keep the battery away from the water). Thing's $5, hard to beat, once you factor in your time and the cost of material.

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