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Rebirth Of A Sleeping Beast!


DelawareT5M

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Hey everyone! I've been dissatisfied by swedespeed lately so I'm going VS strong!

Here's a link i posted a few months back when the engine blew in my 96 854 R http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=69729

This is the background of the tragedy, note i posted it a few months back, forgive the date references

so i was driving in Warminester, PA and i heard a bad knocking start and worsen so i pulled into a parking lot. i check the sound and it sounded like a knocking. i called my dad and asked for advice so he told me to keep driving it til i broke down and he'd come pick me up. sure enough, 2 miles later i was on I-95 heading south and the sound is horrible so i slow down to 60. all of a sudden a loud bang under the engine, something gets loose and falls out, and a huge cloud of smoke comes from my exhaust and engine bay . sure enough, blown engine and oil EVERYWHERE !! i felt like walking in front of traffic at that point... and to all help this sink in, i just got home 20 minutes ago. this happened 2 hours ago from now

i got a few differnt scenarios of what could have happened that night, but I have been talking to a swedish parts store in NJ and he suggests i replace the short block and problem solved... this is the email he sent me:

John,

I have gotten your emails and the pics. It looks like one of the rod bearings failed and that is what caused the rod to come loose and punch the side of the block. From what I can see it is only a short block that you need. You should be able to remove the head that you have and reuse it. There is really no reason to buy a whole motor other than it is easier to swap it into the car but you will buy a lot of parts that you already have. By installing just a short block you will have the labor of swaping the parts over but again that is not a major deal. I have a short block that is $300 and I may be able to include delivery as I think I have another delivery going to DE. The motor has right around 80k on it. The shortblock does not have a oil pan so you would need to use yours.

Let me know if you are interetsed and if you have any questions

Thanks

--

Steve Kafasis

Sales Manager

SPK Swedish Parts and Service

i know this is going to be a huge post, sorry for the extra finger movement but here are pics of the damage

DSC_0018copy.jpg

and

DSC_0035.jpg

what do you think?

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i think that sounds really good if you can pull the motor and the head and do the swap/rebuild

ignore the flippant posts I do em too but VS is the place to be if you want sound advice and stuff all at once lol

I really want to buy one of these 200 dollar motors your always see on eb and tear it apart and build it fresh.

Are you going to do the labor?

and welcome!

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300 bucks for a short block is a deal. Go for it, use the money you save on some nice tools that will last a life time and learn something about fixing a car. I take it that you are young since you are working on this with your father. I wished I had a chance to learn how to rebulid an engine when I was younger, and it could be a good bonding experience with your old man.

Im not real sure but I think all you would need is a new head gasket and studs if no damage was done to the head. Also make sure you clean out the oil pan real good to make sure there are no little pieces of metal when you put it on the new short block.

Good luck.

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How many miles were on the old engine? If it were me and there is more than 150K on the old engine, I would take the head to a machine shop and have them make sure the valves are ok. I would still go the route of the short block, especially for $300. You will pay at least a grand for a full engine maybe more. When you take your head off and put it on the new block, there will be quite a few gaskets and cam cover sealant that you will need. Most people also recommend new head bolts. I think you will probably tie up another $750 in gaskets, bolts and other miscellaneous items. You definitely need to get new hoses and belts unless they are practically brand new already. Volvo does not sell a head gasket kit, and it you are going all OEM, you need to buy each gasket separately. At least this was the case a year and a half ago when I did my head.

When you're all done you will have practically a brand new car for probably less than $1500. Good luck.

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How many miles were on the old engine? If it were me and there is more than 150K on the old engine, I would take the head to a machine shop and have them make sure the valves are ok. I would still go the route of the short block, especially for $300. You will pay at least a grand for a full engine maybe more. When you take your head off and put it on the new block, there will be quite a few gaskets and cam cover sealant that you will need. Most people also recommend new head bolts. I think you will probably tie up another $750 in gaskets, bolts and other miscellaneous items. You definitely need to get new hoses and belts unless they are practically brand new already. Volvo does not sell a head gasket kit, and it you are going all OEM, you need to buy each gasket separately. At least this was the case a year and a half ago when I did my head.

When you're all done you will have practically a brand new car for probably less than $1500. Good luck.

the engine had 91k miles, i know it was still young... before i buy anything, i am taking the engine out hopefully this weekend so i can take it to a machine shop for examination or so i can find any other problems

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i was in the same boat as you, couple of weeks ago actually http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/Project-Cor...ion-t72472.html my hole is actually bigger then yours. i picked up a 850 Turbo motor n just swaped everything from my S70T5 over to make a conversion. Paid $750 for the motor, minus turbo. My only saving grace was i have a bad jerk friend on the board who did all the work without charging me any kind of labor. Everything said and done i spent right around $1200.

as far as pnching that hole...we found a hole in my intercooler and my buddy came up with the theory that back when i was running 15psi with EBC, i was getting 15psi readings, but the car only got maybe 11 from the leak in the intercooler and basically the car gave it fuel for 15 but didn't have the spark it was looking for and just ran hella rich. It basically washed my cylinder lining and the number 2 piston had too much travel room and wedged itself between the walls. The rod then pulled itself off the piston head and punched thru the block and wrapped itself around the crankshaft. Thats as far as he could tell was what happened.

Basically we only took the manifolds, turbo, dp, and fuel rail from my car. the head may have been still useable but there was so much shrapnel n other stuff we didn't bother trying to find out n just kept the turbo motor as is except for the upgrades that were made to the 70 series.

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