Pops Racer Posted April 7, 2007 Report Share Posted April 7, 2007 I beleive i have an rms leak. not much., couple of drops a night. what can i do to stem the leak? and at what point do you bite the bullet and drop 7-8 dead presidents? Oh yeah my wastegate actuator is wearing out what shoud i replace it with, stock or higher pressure 300/ 70. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prasamin Posted April 7, 2007 Report Share Posted April 7, 2007 hmmm, a couple of drops a night isn't too bad, but you definitely don't want to blow it anytime soon. i would shop around and see if you can find the job cheaper....i don't know where you're located, but this guy Tekvolvo does them for a very good price in the NE somewhere.you can get it done for under $500 if you shop around.if you're replacing the wg, might as well upgrade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 VII 7 Posted April 7, 2007 Report Share Posted April 7, 2007 I am in the exact same situation. I found a place that "quoted" me $550 not including the seal from the local Volvo Dealership. You need to call ALL around at normal places. I found Cottman to be the best deal of $550 not including the part price.... SOOOO don't find an afgan that does not know cars to work on your volvo. Shop around... $1400 to $550 around Washington DC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pops Racer Posted April 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2007 hmmm, a couple of drops a night isn't too bad, but you definitely don't want to blow it anytime soon. i would shop around and see if you can find the job cheaper....i don't know where you're located, but this guy Tekvolvo does them for a very good price in the NE somewhere.you can get it done for under $500 if you shop around.if you're replacing the wg, might as well upgrade.I'm in CT. I'll start looking around and saving up for it. What is the normal actuator upgrade for my car? is it a drop in ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FixerUpper Posted April 7, 2007 Report Share Posted April 7, 2007 rear main isnt rocket science its just labor intensive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volvo Virgin Posted April 7, 2007 Report Share Posted April 7, 2007 I am in the exact same situation. I found a place that "quoted" me $550 not including the seal from the local Volvo Dealership. You need to call ALL around at normal places. I found Cottman to be the best deal of $550 not including the part price.... SOOOO don't find an afgan that does not know cars to work on your volvo. Shop around... $1400 to $550 around Washington DC.Cottman=franchise=scary=ripoff.Stay away from them unless your best friend owns one or soemthing. They are the kings of crappy workmanship and "oh...your fluxom valve was bad too and we couldn't guarantee the RMS without doing the fluxom valve.So your total bill went up from $550 to $1875.But you're good to go." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greasefingers Posted April 7, 2007 Report Share Posted April 7, 2007 I say let it leak. Monitor it and if gets worse over time then do something about it. My Jeep has been leaking oil for two years now, at the rear main seal. It leaks in the winter and then the leak completely goes away in the summer. Below freezing I get a spot about an 1 ½ diameter overnight. Above somewhere around 45 F it does not drip at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pops Racer Posted April 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2007 I say let it leak. Monitor it and if gets worse over time then do something about it. My Jeep has been leaking oil for two years now, at the rear main seal. It leaks in the winter and then the leak completely goes away in the summer. Below freezing I get a spot about an 1 ½ diameter overnight. Above somewhere around 45 F it does not drip at all.it seems to have been really bad when i messed with my actuator rod--high boost low rpm. i put it back to stock length and stayed off the throtle, and it reduced the drip. i got my PCV kit and i'm sure when i replace that it will help. i wouldnt take my bomber to a car mcdonalds for any thing. i have a couple of indies i trust and i just found another one near my summer cabin. price is what it is and it is a one time service that will last as long as i own the car. better to get it done right the first time. are there any additives you can use to seal leak? any input on actuator upgrade? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveO Posted April 7, 2007 Report Share Posted April 7, 2007 it seems to have been really bad when i messed with my actuator rod--high boost low rpm. i put it back to stock length and stayed off the throtle, and it reduced the drip. i got my PCV kit and i'm sure when i replace that it will help. i wouldnt take my bomber to a car mcdonalds for any thing. i have a couple of indies i trust and i just found another one near my summer cabin. price is what it is and it is a one time service that will last as long as i own the car. better to get it done right the first time. are there any additives you can use to seal leak? any input on actuator upgrade? If you think it's crank pressure that is causing the RMS leak pull the dipstick out 1/2" or so and wrap the opening with a folded up paper towel, then zip tie through the dipstick, around the paper towel, and the hose that is running in front of the motor. This will vent the excess crank pressure without spewing oil all over your engine compartment. Keep in mind this is NOT a long term fix only a bandaid untill You do the PCV/oil trap service. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted April 7, 2007 Report Share Posted April 7, 2007 Anyone can do a RMS, you cant mess this up inless you use an aftermarket seal. Make sure you get the revised OEM seal and whoever can do it the cheapest is the way to go. Also make sure its 100% the RMS because the cam seals sometimes drip down through to the tranny vent hole making it look like a RMS issue when it really isnt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pops Racer Posted April 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2007 "Anyone can do a RMS, you cant mess this up inless you use an aftermarket seal. Make sure you get the revised OEM seal and whoever can do it the cheapest is the way to go. Also make sure its 100% the RMS because the cam seals sometimes drip down through to the tranny vent hole making it look like a RMS issue when it really isnt"cool "If you think it's crank pressure that is causing the RMS leak pull the dipstick out 1/2" or so and wrap the opening with a folded up paper towel, then zip tie through the dipstick, around the paper towel, and the hose that is running in front of the motor. This will vent the excess crank pressure without spewing oil all over your engine compartment. Keep in mind this is NOT a long term fix only a bandaid untill You do the PCV/oil trap service."and coolthanks B) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Autotechnica Posted April 7, 2007 Report Share Posted April 7, 2007 Those are some really high prices. I only paid $350CDN and I thought I was being ripped off. There was another shop who offered to do it for $300CDN, but they were fully booked. I would say anything under $400CDN is a fair price. You guys are paying USD so those are some really overpriced shops.Bry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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