Anthrpicdecadnce Posted April 22, 2007 Report Share Posted April 22, 2007 Ok, a few days ago, my car started making a loud clacking noise that scared the piss out of me. it's definatelyinternal, so an engine tear down has been initiated.now, theres this little black plastic hose behind my intake manifold. it comes out of the side of the manifold and is wrapped in foam insulation. apparently it is also very brittle, as it broke on me. further inspection revealed NOTHING. this hose has no origin. no where it could possibly connect to. WHAT THE HELL IS IT??? what does it connect to????also, i need some tips for removing the turbo so i can take my exhaust manifold off so i can pull my cylinder head. those lines are so hard to get to and take off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest Posted April 22, 2007 Report Share Posted April 22, 2007 Sounds like the hose that goes from the oil trap(under the intake manifold) to the bottom of the air intake hose. Where it broke just follow it. Where is the end of the broken part attached to? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RussB Posted April 22, 2007 Report Share Posted April 22, 2007 maybe a second opinion would be prudent?pulling the head is a big deal... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted April 22, 2007 Report Share Posted April 22, 2007 If you stop right now i would be interested in buying the car! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geevs Posted April 22, 2007 Report Share Posted April 22, 2007 That hose wrapped in insulation sounds like the PCV hose that originates from the oil trap/catch can under the intake mani and terminates on the PCV valve on the plastic fresh air intake tube that connects to the turbo.When I did my entire PCV system, I replaced the OEM insulated hose (made of hard plastic) with PCV-grade rubber hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikv11 Posted April 22, 2007 Report Share Posted April 22, 2007 now, theres this little black plastic hose behind my intake manifold. it comes out of the side of the manifold and is wrapped in foam insulation. apparently it is also very brittle, as it broke on me. further inspection revealed NOTHING. this hose has no origin. no where it could possibly connect to. WHAT THE HELL IS IT??? what does it connect to????look at the top diagram at this fcp page. sounds like you are talking about number 7. runs from the manifold and oil trap, back to the air intake hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthrpicdecadnce Posted April 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2007 oh ok thanks. well yeah pullig the head is a big deal but i'm gonna do it. something is wrong with the internals and i'm gonna try to fix it. Sorry, i'm not selling my car, i tried looking for one for my friend in manual.. f' tht!now about that turbo... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brindleboxer Posted April 22, 2007 Report Share Posted April 22, 2007 Pulling the turbo isn't fun, when I did mine I broke the job into work from the top of the engine and work from underneath. Work from the top: Once you pull the heat shield (I beleive it was four bolts two being spring captive) you will have a better look at the turbo and the assorted fixtures that will need to be removed. The only thing that I would do a little differently is replace (one by one) all the vaccum line that are to the driver's side of the engine around the turbo housing prior to removing the turbo. It makes for more work but it is way easier than trying to run them and figure out the routing once the turbo is out. Also, be careful when removing the coolant lines, they are not that durable and could break if you get anxious or ape on them. Note: You may need to presoak the bolts for the turbo, downpipe, and exhaust manifold with PB Blaster prior to removal. IMHO the hardest part of the whole job was getting to both the oil and coolant inlet pipes that are mounted in the center of the turbo unit, the rest was just nut and bolt procedures. Take your time and know the procedures so that you do not have to constantly check to see what the next step is (best if you could have a buddy or girlfriend read the steps while you are performing them).From underneath: Here you will disconnect the oil return line, pressure line, and a couple of remaining bolts. Ensure that you retain or replace the gasket for the junction of the tubes on the oil return line. If you miss this you will have a very slow leak that is hard to find once back together. I have really simlplified the procedure (just hit the high points), I used a Haynes manual and it covered everything pretty well. Hope this helps, if you need anything shoot me an e-mail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthrpicdecadnce Posted April 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2007 Pulling the turbo isn't fun, when I did mine I broke the job into work from the top of the engine and work from underneath. Work from the top: Once you pull the heat shield (I beleive it was four bolts two being spring captive) you will have a better look at the turbo and the assorted fixtures that will need to be removed. The only thing that I would do a little differently is replace (one by one) all the vaccum line that are to the driver's side of the engine around the turbo housing prior to removing the turbo. It makes for more work but it is way easier than trying to run them and figure out the routing once the turbo is out. Also, be careful when removing the coolant lines, they are not that durable and could break if you get anxious or ape on them. Note: You may need to presoak the bolts for the turbo, downpipe, and exhaust manifold with PB Blaster prior to removal. IMHO the hardest part of the whole job was getting to both the oil and coolant inlet pipes that are mounted in the center of the turbo unit, the rest was just nut and bolt procedures. Take your time and know the procedures so that you do not have to constantly check to see what the next step is (best if you could have a buddy or girlfriend read the steps while you are performing them).From underneath: Here you will disconnect the oil return line, pressure line, and a couple of remaining bolts. Ensure that you retain or replace the gasket for the junction of the tubes on the oil return line. If you miss this you will have a very slow leak that is hard to find once back together. I have really simlplified the procedure (just hit the high points), I used a Haynes manual and it covered everything pretty well. Hope this helps, if you need anything shoot me an e-mail.y6ou're the man. what would be even better is if any massachusetts volvo owners would come down to help me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brindleboxer Posted April 22, 2007 Report Share Posted April 22, 2007 I would but that is one hell of a commute!!!!If you run into a problem, just shoot an e-mail or post up here. I know it isn't realtime but atleast you will not have to pay a dealer or service center. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthrpicdecadnce Posted April 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2007 i hate my car. and i hate napa oil filters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthrpicdecadnce Posted April 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2007 Pulling the turbo isn't fun, when I did mine I broke the job into work from the top of the engine and work from underneath. Work from the top: Once you pull the heat shield (I beleive it was four bolts two being spring captive) you will have a better look at the turbo and the assorted fixtures that will need to be removed. The only thing that I would do a little differently is replace (one by one) all the vaccum line that are to the driver's side of the engine around the turbo housing prior to removing the turbo. It makes for more work but it is way easier than trying to run them and figure out the routing once the turbo is out. Also, be careful when removing the coolant lines, they are not that durable and could break if you get anxious or ape on them. Note: You may need to presoak the bolts for the turbo, downpipe, and exhaust manifold with PB Blaster prior to removal. IMHO the hardest part of the whole job was getting to both the oil and coolant inlet pipes that are mounted in the center of the turbo unit, the rest was just nut and bolt procedures. Take your time and know the procedures so that you do not have to constantly check to see what the next step is (best if you could have a buddy or girlfriend read the steps while you are performing them).From underneath: Here you will disconnect the oil return line, pressure line, and a couple of remaining bolts. Ensure that you retain or replace the gasket for the junction of the tubes on the oil return line. If you miss this you will have a very slow leak that is hard to find once back together. I have really simlplified the procedure (just hit the high points), I used a Haynes manual and it covered everything pretty well. Hope this helps, if you need anything shoot me an e-mail.only my buddies wont come down to help, despite all the things i do for them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted April 22, 2007 Report Share Posted April 22, 2007 So how do you know its the top end? what are you going to do once the head is off? I just dont understand why you are digging into this when you dont know what the problem is yet, or atleast i assume you dont know 100% what the issue is with the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthrpicdecadnce Posted April 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2007 So how do you know its the top end? what are you going to do once the head is off? I just dont understand why you are digging into this when you dont know what the problem is yet, or atleast i assume you dont know 100% what the issue is with the car.its internal and bottom end related the head needs to come off so i can put the pistons back in when i'm done inspecting them. also, i figure its a good time for new bearings and rings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted April 23, 2007 Report Share Posted April 23, 2007 its internal and bottom end related the head needs to come off so i can put the pistons back in when i'm done inspecting them. also, i figure its a good time for new bearings and rings.I'm sorry man but really you have no idea what so ever to what you are getting yourself into. PM, me and i will give you my number, I would really like to help you on this! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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