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Qbm Xtreme Endlinks


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I was always skeptical when everyone said they'd last a long time with those exposed heim joints. I heard a grinding noise the other day so I better go inspect them :(

now I have to completely remove the endlinks to install boots and go through the whole PITA process of raising and lowering the car several times and trying to reach behind the wheels to work on a lowered car while it sits on the ground? not an easy or quick fix. those endlinks were a bigger hassle than installing new struts and shocks. built like a tank, don't get me wrong, but I would have been better off with IPD (5 yr warranty) or the BMW links for a daily driven car

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I was always skeptical when everyone said they'd last a long time with those exposed heim joints. I heard a grinding noise the other day so I better go inspect them :(

now I have to completely remove the endlinks to install boots and go through the whole PITA process of raising and lowering the car several times and trying to reach behind the wheels to work on a lowered car while it sits on the ground? not an easy or quick fix. those endlinks were a bigger hassle than installing new struts and shocks. built like a tank, don't get me wrong, but I would have been better off with IPD (5 yr warranty) or the BMW links for a daily driven car

For the cost of the QBM endlinks, the boots should be included.

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now I have to completely remove the endlinks to install boots and go through the whole PITA process of raising and lowering the car several times and trying to reach behind the wheels to work on a lowered car while it sits on the ground? not an easy or quick fix. those endlinks were a bigger hassle than installing new struts and shocks.

I can swap a set of endlinks in about a half hour, and that's no BS. If I wanted to be a retard, I suppose I could make it a 4 hour hassle of a job. :rolleyes:

Jack the front of the car up, and remove both wheels, Foo!

For the record,

My QBM Extreme endlinks had both LOWER (RH threaded) heims wear to the point that they rattled & clunked quite noticably after about 4 months. <_< I tried tightening all the hardware, but the hardware was already tight! The lower joints receive quite a bit more"action" than the tops, both in exposure to the elements, and force applied.

I bought 2 new heim joints from QBM, for $20, and also got a set of the boots... :(

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Any of you guys get yours yet? I ordered around the same time...

Somethings gotta be going on with him again, as I haven't heard from him via email in about a week or so. It's too bad too, cause his products are fire, but his customer service is "teh suxorz". I understand his issue and am sympathetic to it, but email programs do have features like auto-reply, you know. Instead, he has some money of mine, and I have no idea where the product is. Oh well.... <_<

now I have to completely remove the endlinks to install boots and go through the whole PITA process of raising and lowering the car several times and trying to reach behind the wheels to work on a lowered car while it sits on the ground? not an easy or quick fix. those endlinks were a bigger hassle than installing new struts and shocks. built like a tank, don't get me wrong, but I would have been better off with IPD (5 yr warranty) or the BMW links for a daily driven car

I always wondered how everyone else (including QBM) says it's relatively simple and I was having a hell of a time. Glad to see I'm not the only one (except now there are only two of us...apparently). We must be the only ones without a pit in the garage... :lol:

I can swap a set of endlinks in about a half how, no BS. If I wanted to be a retard, I suppose I could make it a 4 hour hassle of a job. :rolleyes:

That's it! We're retarded! I knew something was not right... :arob:

If you follow the instructions to a T, I really don't see that happening. Now going on your own and doing it your own way, sure, a half-er is easy - been there, done that. But all that raising and lowering with a jack takes a half hour in itself. And I have one of those 3-ton speed jacks (two pumps to the chassis...yada, yada, yada, and yes, I have air tools too). But if you can do it per the instructions in 30 minutes, you'd better post a video. I'll send you a pizza. Maybe even a real one from Lou Malnati's here in Chicago.

For the cost of the QBM endlinks, the boots should be included.

Agreed!! Especially knowing that it would help in premature failure, after you marketed your product to "easily outlast others". Case in point: Cingular offered free extended batteries to anyone that purchased the Samsung Blackjack, cause the standard battery struggled to even last one day on a full charge. They immediately included an extended battery in all purchases going forward. Lesson learned!

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I can swap a set of endlinks in about a half hour, and that's no BS. If I wanted to be a retard, I suppose I could make it a 4 hour hassle of a job. :rolleyes:

Jack the front of the car up, and remove both wheels, Foo!

read the instruction on the QBM website. it's not that simple if you want to avoid preloading the bar. it involves making adjustments with the car on the ground and with the front end off the ground. it's not rocket science, but its time consuming and a big hassle.

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read the instruction on the QBM website. it's not that simple if you want to avoid preloading the bar. it involves making adjustments with the car on the ground and with the front end off the ground. it's not rocket science, but its time consuming and a big hassle.

Point taken about following the QBM installation "technique" I'll go on record saying that is the most bass-ackward way to install endlinks as I can think of. What the hell was Greg thinking?

1. pre-set the lengths & lock down the lock nuts hard on your new QBM endlinks. make sure the heim joints are lined up ( :excl: important!) If you set them short, they are the same length as stock, and you sure don't have to worry about any "Pre-Load" bullshit. If you have IPD bars, you can't pre-load the bar...

2. jack the front of the car up, insert jack stands

3. remove both tires.

4. remove both old endlinks

5. smear all the hardware with copious amounts of "Never-seize" because you will have to remove them again in a few months :monkey::sheep:

6. install the QBM endlinks

7. install the wheels

8. lower the jack, remove the jack stands

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For the cost of the QBM endlinks, the boots should be included.

Absolutely.

Would it help to fill the insides of the boot with white lithium grease before they get sealed off at the openings? I figured zip tie on the 3 openings would keep the grease in.

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If you follow the instructions to a T, I really don't see that happening. Now going on your own and doing it your own way, sure, a half-er is easy - been there, done that. But all that raising and lowering with a jack takes a half hour in itself. And I have one of those 3-ton speed jacks (two pumps to the chassis...yada, yada, yada, and yes, I have air tools too). But if you can do it per the instructions in 30 minutes, you'd better post a video. I'll send you a pizza. Maybe even a real one from Lou Malnati's here in Chicago.

Hey Dave want to come over??? Don't forget to bring the pizza. :D:P Ill get it done in 30 min, no air tools :rolleyes:

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Absolutely.

Would it help to fill the insides of the boot with white lithium grease before they get sealed off at the openings? I figured zip tie on the 3 openings would keep the grease in.

x4 dust boots were delivered today (not the QBM boots), so im almost ready to fit the endlinks.

Not a bad suggestion that Geevs. OR just smear some vaseline around the holes :D and then zip tie.

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Hey Dave want to come over??? Don't forget to bring the pizza. :D:P Ill get it done in 30 min, no air tools :rolleyes:

You're on! If my replacement rod ends ever get here (been about a month now since I've paid...), you got a deal. But only if I can have some pizza too... :lol: And you have to do it as the instructions state!

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My QBM Extreme endlinks had both LOWER (RH threaded) heims wear to the point that they rattled & clunked quite noticably after about 4 months. <_< I tried tightening all the hardware, but the hardware was already tight! The lower joints receive quite a bit more"action" than the tops, both in exposure to the elements, and force applied.

Was the noise sounding like it was coming from the underside of the front end? Kinda like the strut mount taking a stuff, but they are fine?

I ask this because I got a chirp coming from the left and a similiar sound to the strut mount being shot coming from the underside of the car.

Ever since I have been hearing reports of peoples heim joints taking a stuff and these things coming loose it kinda irritates me comsidering that these things were near $200 and "will last longer than my car."

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