md850 Posted July 19, 2007 Report Share Posted July 19, 2007 because one guy has two harses, :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trance42 Posted July 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2007 Got the head back from the machine shop today. Valve seals were all cracked and pushing oil in to the valve guides. I talked to terry at VMS who was really helpful, informative, and was willing to take time to answer a bunch of Volvo related questions that i had. He explained that the brown valve seals which came in the Elring head seal/gasket kits didn't seem to hold up on a few of the first motors VMS built. He said if anyone replaces seals that they should use the green seals which you can get from Volvo. Since he has been using these seals he has had no problems with his heads.This made me worry because I had the guy at the engine machine Shop (Greg) install the new seals out of the Elring kit that i ordered. My seals were red though. Greg's thoughts were that the seals he installed in my head were not the same as the ones he pulled off and that the seals he installed were the correct size. The seals he pulled off he did not think were the rite size. Terry told me the Elring seals turned out to be a little taller than what they should be. Thanks Elring for screwing up.Another thing i talked with Terry about was cam lift and duration. Terry and che admin have both said you really dont need any more lift. A slight change in duration is beneficial. Terry said the best thing to do is to get some NA cams and have the lift ground to the turbo cams lift.Hopefully everything is ok with the head now and this will not happen again.Here are some pics of the head all cleaned up and ready to reinstall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
md850 Posted July 26, 2007 Report Share Posted July 26, 2007 Got the head back from the machine shop today. Valve seals were all cracked and pushing oil in to the valve guides. I talked to terry at VMS who was really helpful, informative, and was willing to take time to answer a bunch of Volvo related questions that i had. He explained that the brown valve seals which came in the Elring head seal/gasket kits didn't seem to hold up on a few of the first motors VMS built. He said if anyone replaces seals that they should use the green seals which you can get from Volvo. Since he has been using these seals he has had no problems with his heads.This made me worry because I had the guy at the engine machine Shop (Greg) install the new seals out of the Elring kit that i ordered. My seals were red though. Greg's thoughts were that the seals he installed in my head were not the same as the ones he pulled off and that the seals he installed were the correct size. The seals he pulled off he did not think were the rite size. Terry told me the Elring seals turned out to be a little taller than what they should be. Thanks Elring for screwing up.Another thing i talked with Terry about was cam lift and duration. Terry and che admin have both said you really dont need any more lift. A slight change in duration is beneficial. Terry said the best thing to do is to get some NA cams and have the lift ground to the turbo cams lift.Hopefully everything is ok with the head now and this will not happen again.Here are some pics of the head all cleaned up and ready to reinstall.head looks sweet, like a brand new used head hehe, i hope the valve seals hold up, it seems like it's hard to match volvo oem quality, good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trance42 Posted July 29, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2007 I JUST GOT HEAD.. I mean i just put my head back on. The only thing is i didn't check to see if the torque wrench went all the way to 94 ft lbs. So i am going to barrow one. will it hurt to pick up where i left off or should i loosen them and start over. On the second to last stage the nuts did not turn smoothly. They kinda jumped. Some of you might argue what the torque spec should be because i have heard different numbers from every one.Some people also say they need to be re torqued after the engine has been run but terry at VMS said no because they are not stretch studs and it does not need it. Here are the specs that Terry gave me if anyone is interested.First step=30 ft. lbssecond step=50 ft. lbsthird step = 70 ft. lbs.and the final step is 94 ft. lbsMake sure that you oil the nuts and the washers real good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prasamin Posted July 29, 2007 Report Share Posted July 29, 2007 the only advice i'll give you is to stop calling Terry for advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gioseppe Posted July 29, 2007 Report Share Posted July 29, 2007 the only advice i'll give you is to stop calling Terry for advice.is the entire engine from a later model or is it just the head?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trance42 Posted July 29, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2007 is the entire engine from a later model or is it just the head??Well i was under the impression that it was all from mikes 97 850r but i guess a different parts could have been used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trance42 Posted August 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 well my car is back together with the orange injectors. cranked up just fine. Drove it down the road. came back to the house and turned it off. Tried to crank the car and it wouldn't start. plenty of fuel came out of the rail when i pushed on the valve. Took the orange injectors out put the rc 750s back in. it cranked! Drove it down the road. Came back to the house and turned it off. Went back out a few min later to start it and it would not crank. Barely any fuel came out of the valve in the fuel rail this time. This is driving me nuts. What is going on? Fuel filter? The pump sounds like it is turning on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gioseppe Posted August 13, 2007 Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 weird.so it won't turn over at all when you say no crank? or will it will turn over but not fire off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prasamin Posted August 13, 2007 Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 check fuel filter, then check cam position sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trance42 Posted August 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2007 I left the positive cable off the battery last night and went out and started the car up this morning after a few cranks. it hesitated and acted funny like it would if you had unmetered air coming in the engine. when i drove it if i hit the gas pedal the car hesitated just a little and then sped up. I checked the codes with a code reader i rented and i got 1 single code... P1618. Can anyone tell me what this is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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