Pops Racer Posted July 16, 2007 Report Share Posted July 16, 2007 So I installed the universal o2's, with the neat little plug kit. 110mi later CEL code 212, and 153. Faulty or missing o2's. Today I dismantled the connectors, and went to solder and shrink tube. Pain in the arse. Grease from hands contaminates wires and keeps solder from flowing properly. Cut back and re-strip wires. Wires short and difficult to handle. Soldering and shrink done with much swearing and sweating. $150 for 2 sensors, 3 hours total for labor, knot on head from frame and stiff neck from soldering on my back. CEL's , priceless. I will await the return of codes after 100 mi or so. What will happen after that, not sure. I saved some simolians, but my time is worth something, and if I apply my labor rate that I get on the job, no savings to be found. Are the white/heater wires, polarity specific? I was told BMW ones are polarity sensitive and you can blow the sensor. Shoulda just bought the Volvo ones. Live and learn, somethings are worth paying extra for. :rolleyes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dmsee Posted July 16, 2007 Report Share Posted July 16, 2007 Next time get OEM which is Bosh plug and play Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
md850 Posted July 16, 2007 Report Share Posted July 16, 2007 So I installed the universal o2's, with the neat little plug kit. 110mi later CEL code 212, and 153. Faulty or missing o2's. Today I dismantled the connectors, and went to solder and shrink tube. Pain in the arse. Grease from hands contaminates wires and keeps solder from flowing properly. Cut back and re-strip wires. Wires short and difficult to handle. Soldering and shrink done with much swearing and sweating. $150 for 2 sensors, 3 hours total for labor, knot on head from frame and stiff neck from soldering on my back. CEL's , priceless. I will await the return of codes after 100 mi or so. What will happen after that, not sure. I saved some simolians, but my time is worth something, and if I apply my labor rate that I get on the job, no savings to be found. Are the white/heater wires, polarity specific? I was told BMW ones are polarity sensitive and you can blow the sensor. Shoulda just bought the Volvo ones. Live and learn, somethings are worth paying extra for. thats some serious commentary there, hehehe, damn priceless. Ever considered racing commentary? hehe minus the cussin and swearing? priceless. how much more were the volvo ones? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozark Lee Posted July 16, 2007 Report Share Posted July 16, 2007 Are the white/heater wires, polarity specific?No. The heater circuit is resistive and doesn't care....Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Betty Posted July 16, 2007 Report Share Posted July 16, 2007 No. The heater circuit is resistive and doesn't care....Leei used the bosch universal 02 sensor but inside of soldering i just used the wire connector box they supplied and its been fine for the last 500mi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laird Posted July 16, 2007 Report Share Posted July 16, 2007 I have had a Universal on for about 5000 miles with no trouble. You would have had a much easier time had you simply done all your connection work at the kitchen table, the whole thing comes out quite easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yellow95 Posted July 16, 2007 Report Share Posted July 16, 2007 I have used the universal on all three of my cars with no problems at all.Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8-50 Posted July 16, 2007 Report Share Posted July 16, 2007 I replaced mine with $25 ebay ford branded universal sensors and haven't had any problems for a year and 10k miles. The secret to doing the job is to pull the old sensors, solder the old connectors onto the new ones, and then install them like you would new ones. I do wonder sometimes about the wisdom of putting in Ford sensors instead of bosch ones. Might be costing me some mpg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pops Racer Posted July 17, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2007 I have used the universal on all three of my cars with no problems at all.GaryI prolly saved 50 simolians, but lost it in labor, etc. Shoulda, woulda, coulda. Threw the same old codes after soldering today, seems to run fine, tho. Got a trip to PA coming up, and I need her to run well. I got the codes when I used the box connector too. I may yet yank them out and bench solder them before I go mad and do something drastic. Like buy OEM and call it a day.The funny thing id I get codes for both the sensors. Ya think I'd at least get one of those f'ers right! I am so close to moving on to interior/exterior, this and my brake upgrade. Am I not doing something right in code reset? I got a copy of the Bay 13 sheet, should be ok. Could it be something else? I did quite a few vac hoses about the same time, did plugs, wires, cap, and coil also. as long as vac hoses have good seals, does I.D. matter.? Long sigh ending in a groan... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
md850 Posted July 17, 2007 Report Share Posted July 17, 2007 :D Some words are worth a thousand pictures,hehe, i could almost see u now, complete with cussin. i get the feelin that you haven't reset the codes properly, or those have truly failed somehow (manufacturer defect).if the originals hadn't failed u could re-install them for a baseline test. dont tank in yet, if anything follow n8-50 and try the fords. hehe. at that price ($25.00) u could've bought 6. :ph34r: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zappo Posted July 17, 2007 Report Share Posted July 17, 2007 What I did was cut the wires on the existing sensor to give me an extra 12" or so if wire to work with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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